Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide

Using This Blog-Guide

2010-04-20T23:03:00.000-07:00

The Basics:

This blog-guide has a new format. The front page, which you are now viewing, is for general information only. To view individual miniguides, click on the QUICKLINKS TO FLAGSTAFF MOUNTAIN MINIGUIDES on the right to access photos and guides to different areas of the mountain OR use the Google search tool on the right to search for boulders or problems within the miniguides. If you are unfamiliar with Flagstaff Mountain, each miniguide contains explicit and independent directions to the area and photos showing the lines for the each problem. Approximately 750 problems and variations are currently described in 37 Miniguides, although a few are still under construction or revision. In the not too distant future, there will be 1,000 problems and variations in approximately 45 Miniguides. Quality ratings have been added to the miniguides to help visiting climbers with limited time select the very best problems (see the explanation of quality ratings below). This blog-guide is a work in progress, so comments, corrections and suggestions are always welcome. See you out there!

Warning:

Rock climbing, including bouldering, is inherently dangerous. Do not participate unless you are willing to personally assume all of the risks that climbing presents, including the risk that you will suffer serious injury or death. Falling is common in bouldering and every fall is a ground fall. Climbers risk injuring themselves and/or their spotters during each attempt. Landing on uneven ground and/or rocky terrain is a particular hazard every climber should assess before attempting any problem. Do your best to minimize your risks (see the safety section), but some hazards including loose rock, broken holds and long and/or awkward falls present risks that are often difficult to prepare for and predict.

Safety:

To minimize the risk of injury, warm up on easier problems and use spotters and crashpads when bouldering. Climb with attentive and enthusiastic spotters familiar with proper spotting techniques. Consult with other climbers about the difficulty and dangers presented by problems with which you are unfamiliar and always use common sense. If you feel unsafe on a particular problem, come back some other day under better conditions, when you have better beta about the top-out or when you have stronger fingers or better endurance. Other options include bringing several spotters and a dozen crashpads or setting up a toprope. You can even choose not to come back to a particular problem or not to come back to Flagstaff Mountain at all. One beauty of climbing is that we get to make our own choices, but we must also personally accept responsibility for the risks we take and consequences we suffer.

Ethics:

All of Flagstaff Mountain's boulder problems are located on land managed by the City of Boulder's Open Space & Mountain Parks. The majority of the problems are located on land that has been classified as a Recreation Area in the OSMP Master Plan, which means that off-trail travel, while not encouraged, is permitted. The majority of the problems on Flagstaff Mountain are located off-trail or on social trails which are not considered officially designated trails. We should all make efforts to practice Leave No Trace, using hard erosion-resistant surfaces and rock-hopping techniques to access the boulders when feasible. Minimize your footprint by staying on established social trails when possible, taking care of the fauna, brushing off excess chalk and tickmarks that other user groups do not enjoy and cleaning up after other user groups which are largely responsible for the trash we clean up on the mountain during the annual Trash Bash. If you encounter a ranger or other user groups that we share the mountain with, always be friendly and respectful. Remember to leave the glass bottles at home, as glass is prohibited on Flagstaff Mountain. With respect to the boulders themselves, do not chip, enhance or otherwise manipulate the rock to bring a problem down to your level. After it rains, consider climbing elsewhere, as the Fountain sandstone found on Flagstaff Mountain is particularly susceptible to weakening by moisture. Most importantly, have fun!

A Very Brief History:

Climbers have been exploring the exposed Fountain sandstone boulders, walls and outcroppings on the southeast flank of Flagstaff Mountain since the 1940’s. Although there are a handful of popular routes that are regularly top-roped, Flagstaff is an immense bouldering resource with a rich history. Climbers passing through Boulder would be foolish not to venture up Flagstaff Road to try legendary time-tested moderates and testpieces put up and repeated by many of our heroes in decades gone by. Those interested in learning more about the mountain’s history will be enlightened, inspired and entertained by the section on Flagstaff in John Sherman’s “Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America.” Guidebooks with sections on Flagstaff also touch on its history, particularly Pat Ament’s "Flagstaff Mountain: A Climber's Playground," any of Ament's 5 editions of “High Over Boulder” and Phillip Benningfield’s Colorado Bouldering.

Getting There:

To reach the bouldering, drive or bike west up Baseline Road from its intersection with Broadway (AKA Highway 93) in Boulder. After 1.4 miles, just after passing over the Armstrong Bridge and passing Gregory Canyon on your left, Baseline Road makes a sweeping right hand turn and becomes Flagstaff Road. All of the boulders on Flagstaff Mountain are easily accessible from the road over the next 2.1 miles. Although the distances are reiterated in the each of the miniguides, here are some distances from the Armstrong Bridge and Gregory Canyon Road intersection to the major parking areas:

Panorama Point Parking Area ................................... 0.5 miles

Capstan Pullout ................................................... 1.2 miles

Crown Rock Parking Area ........................................ 1.6 miles

First Overhang Parking Area ….................................. 2.1 miles

When it comes to parking, use common sense. A number of additional, but small, parking areas are present, but if a sign indicates you should not park somewhere, DON'T! If you are riding a bike, be aware that no trail riding is allowed on Flagstaff Mountain. Visitors who are unfamiliar with the mountain can use the individual miniguides to coordinate their parking and approach with the areas they wish to visit. One may also reach the boulders by doing a 30 minute hike or trail-run up either of two trails that ascend the mountain from Gregory Canyon Road.

Names and Descriptions:

Historical area names, boulder names and problem names and descriptions have been used when available. Conflicts between prior problem descriptions and the real world were resolved using common sense. Among the listed problems are well over 600 previously-undocumented problems and variations. Some of these newly documented problems were undoubtedly bouldered out by various honemasters back in the 60’s, 70’s or 80’s and have merely been rediscovered and documented for the first time. The author recognizes that people have been bouldering on Flagstaff Mountain for 50+ years and has been conservative about first ascent claims by myself and others. In an effort to avoid ambiguity and obscurity, I have named walls, boulders and problems that I was unable to procure any information about. Sometimes I used descriptive names and other times I used nicknames people shared with me about areas and problems. As a general rule, I have omitted no-hands, one-handed and “circus trick” problems, although I have included a few of the more historical ones. Let me know if I've missed something obvious and good.

Difficulty Ratings:

Ratings are opinions, not facts, so please take them with a grain of salt and never get offended by them or defensive about them. Use the grades in this and other guides as a reference when deciding what problems to try. Although hundreds of Flagstaff Mountain’s problems were originally rated using the old B System, this blog-guide employs the Vermin or V System exclusively. Grades in this blog-guide currently range from VB to V13. A number of double-digit projects and problems that have broken remain for future ascents and grading. Previous guidebooks made efforts at converting the B System ratings to the V System and, as a general rule, historical ratings (e.g., their V System conversions) have been respected. However, dozens of problems have been re-rated (some up and some down) in an effort to account for weathering, broken holds, missing pebbles, poor B System to V System conversions or to adjust ratings that had little basis in reality. That said, difficulty ratings on Flagstaff Mountain have always been solid and it is the author's hope that all problems are still solidly but fairly graded. Note that on hot sunny days, many - if not most - of the problems will seem much harder than the rating suggests. If you keep an 8a scorecard or logbook, rate the problems how they felt to you, so the community can keep grades moving towards a consensus, as I do monitor the opinions of others.

Quality Ratings

Assessing a boulder problem’s quality is even more subjective than assessing its difficulty. Nevertheless, I have tried to do just that based on my experience climbing almost 900 problems on the mountain and the praise and/or condemnation of others. Each problem is given either one star or none. That said, a zero star problem in this guide can be quite nice and worth doing. The best 100 problems will be highlighted in ORANGE rather than YELLOW. For your reference, the author’s conception of a perfect boulder problem is an aesthetic line in an idyllic setting with an obvious start and finish and no rules in between. This hypothetical problem possesses clean solid rock with a user-friendly texture, provides dramatic position and exposure and requires a variety of interesting moves of consistent or increasing difficulty all above a landing area that presents a low risk of serious injury if proper safety precautions are followed. No problems on Flagstaff Mountain possess all those qualities and you are reminded that zero star problems in this guide can still be worth climbing and good. It is my hope that very few folks will be disappointed by problems receiving a star.

Potential New Problems Pending for Addition to Miniguides

NOOK'S ROCK & 30TH BIRTHDAY ROOF
Botslayer V10 - 2010 (GS)

DOWN THE MOUNTAIN CLIFFS

Flipper V4 - 2010 (PJ)

Slot View V6 - 2010 (PJ)

Unnamed V? - 2010 (PJ)

FIRST OVERHANG RIDGE

The Departed V9 sds - 2009 (SA)

Face With No Hands V5 - 2006 (PJ)

West End Traverse V9 - 2009 (PB)

There Will Be Blood V10/11 sds - 2009 (PB)

Face With No Name Traverse V7 sds - 2009 (BC)

Dungeon Master V7 sds - 2009 (EH)

Dungeon & Dragons V8 sds - 2009 (AM)

Reluctant Dragon V5 sds - 2009 (MB)

Rumble in the Chungle V5 sds - 2009 (BC)

In-Betweens Miniguide

2010-04-20T22:50:00.000-07:00

The In-Betweens refers to a short broken spine of rock about 100 yards long between the Crown Rock Ridge and the Alamo Rock Ridge. None of the problems have the best rock quality, but their moderate nature makes them fun as approach-shoe-problems or as warm-ups. Additional contrivances and heady problems on chossy rock could be - and I'm sure have been - devised here, but I've tried to list the most obvious lines. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast toward the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. The first problem in this miniguide is located right on the trail on the left and will be obvious. From here, head west 20 feet behind a ridge of rock, follow it south and you will find the remainder of the problems, all of which are west-facing and moderate in nature.
FROGGER ROCK
1. Frogger V0 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the trail that leads to Pump Rock and Alamo Rock, yard on the starting holds - springing up to the rounded top, then pull over.
PAC MAN ROCK
2. Pac Man VB ... FA: Unknown *
Start matched on the slopey shelf, make headway using a couple of obvious features, then slap the round and slopey top and mantel it down.
3. Ms. Pac Man VB ... FA: Unknown
Start just right of #2 with your LH on the shelf and your RH using a pocket. Pull on, and again use obvious features to make a couple moves, then slap the round and slopey top and mantel it down.
4. Pole Position VB ... FA: Unknown *
About 50 feet right of #2 and #3, start up an obvious arête and ascend incut edges and buckets. Trend slightly right towards the top with lots of air under your feet and pull over. A really fun moderate with great holds, lots of moves and terrific position.
5. Donkey Kong Junior V0 ... FA: Unknown
Right from #4, after a break in the ridge, ascend the short obvious line to a sketchy finish on suprisingly steep rock if you pull straight over.
THE ARCADE
6. Galaga V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2010 *
Twenty yards right from #5, a more significant wall may be found. Ascend the left hand side of this wall, straight up to a small roof up at the lip. Make a couple tough moves to start, continue up on jugs, then finish out the high roof on small edges that lead to a topout jug.
7. Centipede VB ... FA: Unknown
A few feet right of #6, find the line of least resistance straight up the jugs.
8. Asteroids VB ... FA: Unknown
About 20 feet right of #7, find another moderate that heads up juggy terrain.
9. Tron V0 ... FA: Unknown
Start 10 feet right of #8 do a couple straight-up moves, then trend up and left up into the finish for #8 .
LARGE RED WALL
10. Large Red Wall Face V2 X ... FA: Unknown (not pictured)
This wall is actually the same as the Arcade, but they are separated by a low-angle chimney-dihedral. Ascend the slabby wall to the high high bulging face. I'm not sure of the line here.
11. Large Red Wall Corner VB X ... FA: Unknown (not pictured)
Ascend the corner on the right side of the wall.

Lower Alamo Rock Ridge Miniguide

2010-02-21T02:36:00.000-08:00

Generally speaking, the Alamo Rock Ridge refers to a broken spine of rock comprised of about 20 spots to drop your pads and try some things if you continue far enough down the ridge. This miniguide will cover the lower "half" of these problems. The boulders and walls of the Alamo Rock Ridge run north-to-south for 500 hundred yards towards Gregory Canyon approximately 100 yards east of the ridge of rock that includes One-Arm Rocks, Crown Rock, Pratt's Rock, The Monkey Traverse, etc. When complete, this miniguide should comprise about 45 problems, about the same number as the miniguide for Upper Alamo Rock Ridge. Alone or in combination with Upper Alamo Rock Ridge and/or the Candel Area, this is a great place for a huge circuit of easier to moderate problems on good stone away from other climbers and user groups. Most of the problems are highball in nature, but most have reasonable or easy topouts. If you have a good head, this an excellent area to log some mileage. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Major features that will initially come into view include Pump Rock, The Rib, Alamo Rock, Navajo Rock and the Erasable Boulder. See the miniguide for the Upper Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems in and around these formations. All of the problems covered in this miniguide are located on and around the ridge of rock that continues down the hill towards Gregory Canyon below the Erasable Boulder (which is the rock you pass below when approaching the Candel Area). Read the descriptions and use the photos to identify problems in this area and see the miniguide for the Upper Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems at the top of the hill.

More to come =)

Upper Alamo Rock Ridge Miniguide

2010-02-21T02:22:00.000-08:00

Generally speaking, the Alamo Rock Ridge refers to a broken spine of rock comprised of about 20 spots to drop your pads and try some things if you continue far enough down the ridge. This miniguide will cover the upper "half" of these problems. The boulders and walls of the Alamo Rock Ridge run north-to-south for 500 hundred yards towards Gregory Canyon approximately 100 yards east of the ridge of rock that includes One-Arm Rocks, Crown Rock, Pratt's Rock, The Monkey Traverse, etc. When complete, this miniguide should comprise about 45 problems, about the same number as the miniguide for Lower Alamo Rock Ridge. Alone or in combination with Lower Alamo Rock Ridge and/or the Candel Area, this is a great place for a circuit of easier to moderate problems on good stone away from other climbers and user groups. You'll see other parties here sometimes, but it's definitely away from the masses that seemingly can't escape the gravity of The Monkey Traverse and the other popular and more social areas. If you have a good head, there are some fun highballs with good rock to jump on ... this an excellent area to log some mileage. There are a few things back here that are clearly topropes, which could be bouldered out/free-soloed and I'm sure a couple of the more historical ones have. For the most part, I will ignore those and you can look them up in one of Pat Ament's 5 editions of High Over Boulder if you are interested. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Major features that will initially come into view include Pump Rock, The Rib, Alamo Rock, Navajo Rock and the Erasable Boulder. All of the problems covered in this miniguide are scattered on and around these boulders. Read the descriptions and use the photos to identify problems in this area and see the miniguide for the Lower Alamo Rock Ridge for the problems down the hill.

More to come =)

Candel Area Miniguide

2010-02-21T01:57:00.000-08:00

The Candel Area refers to a collection of mostly smaller blocks spread out along and around a north-to-south spine of rock 60 yards east of the Alamo Rock Ridge. A number of problems here were established by Rob Candelaria, hence the name. It is a nice place for a circuit of easier to moderate problems on mostly good stone. It's almost always quiet and peaceful at the Candel Area, so if you visit, you will likely have it to yourself. It is difficult to navigate this area with multiple pads, as the trees are dense in places and quite a bit of scrambling is required to reach some of the boulders and walls. Nevertheless, a lot of the problems are relatively safe with 1 pad and the vast majority are V2 or easier. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain) at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Walk past One-Arm Rocks and Crown Rock towards the Monkey Traverse, then turn left and follow a nice path away from the masses that trends southeast to the upper reaches of the Alamo Rock Ridge. Steer around south and then east below the Erasable Boulder on a faint path that leads to the Candel Area. Initially, at the top of a short incline, you will come to a dense patch of smaller pine trees. There's a short problem here and then on the other side of these trees are a collection of smaller blocks containing mostly shorter moderates. If you backtrack to the trees and head south, there is a fairly dense selection of problems sprinkled over the next 125 yards as you head south and downhill along the west side of a ridge of rock. Enjoy the solitude.

UPPER CANDEL BLOCKS
1. Toadstool VB sds ... FA: Unknown
This problem is located on by itself on the north side of chossy little boulder at the top of the short hill just before the tightly-knit pine trees. From a sds on the northwest side, climb the flaky northwest bulge up mostly jugs.
2. First Move VB ... FA: Unknown
Climb the short and easy northeast corner to the top.
3. Second Move V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Right of #2, begin on really poor starting holds (lots of pebbly-grips and a couple of slopey options), put a foot on a ledge and lunge straight up from from those same really poor holds to the incut lip and mantel it out.
4. Third Move V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Right of #3, ascend the west-pointing arête. Without using the small meddling boulders below to get started, do an awkward first move to start using a good RH on the arête and a really poor LH and continue to the top with a possible mantel finish.
5. Rabbit Hole V4 / V5 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's
Find the arête with a boulder perched above it. Begin on good edges on the arête (a) or a sds below (b) and surf up and left on slopers until you can transition up onto the slabby east face of the upper boulder and go to the top.
6. Chess Board Left V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's
Begin from a sds on two low holds. With good feet, surf the lip up and right to the apex of the boulder and pull over on jugs.
7. Chess Board Center V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's
Begin from a sds on a thin LH sidepull and RH jug. Bump your LH up once or twice to better holds and pull over the top. Variation #1 - Jones Opening V? sds: A variation to #7 that uses the same LH sidepull and a opposing thin RH sidepull instead of the jug to start, which probably necessitates a high right heel-hook to start. A crouching start will be necessary unless you are tall with long arms or you have 2 or 3 pads to stack so you can reach the RH crimp from the sitting position.
8. Chess Board Right V0 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's
Begin from a sds down low on the arête and make a few pulls up and left on good incuts to pull over the top.
9. Brickmason Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's *
About 10 yards past #6-8 is a narrow north-to-south corridor with a slightly overhanging west face that almost appears to be the work of a brickmason. Start at the southern end and traverse uphill right to left up silky-smooth reddish bricks to the highpoint where you can topout on jugs. A cool traverse on unique rock.
BACKSCRATCHER CORRIDOR
10. Backscratcher V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From the above problems, backtrack out of the little boulders into the tightly-knit pine trees and walk south 20 yards. This corridor is located one level below and west of the Fingers Boulder Corridor. With a jagged-limbed bush right behind you and ready to impale you if you fall, ascend this west-facing bulge to the top from a sds.
11. Backscratcher Crack VB ... FA: Unknown
Five feet right of #11, climb out the obvious wide crack that is almost a chimney.
FINGERS BOULDER CORRIDOR
12. Rounded Prow VB ... FA: Unknown
Twenty yards before you arrive at the Fingers Boulders proper, look for a tall rounded prow. Climb straight up it on sloping high-friction sloping edges.
13. Sloping Jugs VB ... FA: Unknown
Eight feet right of #12, climb large sloping high-frcition jugs just left of a large tree.
14. Finger Arête V2 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *
The name is a misnomer, as this is not an arête problem. Start on opposing layaways (a) and climb the short face left of #15. A sds begins below on opposing sidepulls (b) and bumps the grade.
15. Fingers Fingers V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown
Climb the short finger crack from a sds at the base of the crack to good holds at the top.
16. Right Finger V3 ... FA: Unknown
A few feet right of #15, pull on at the thin finger-slicing edge, slide left a couple feet and topout over the bulge.
17. Right Finger Direct V7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003 *
From an obvious sds 8 feet right of the crack at a jug below the start for #16, move up into #16 via a match on or crossover from a thin finger edge. At first glance, this one appears deceivingly easier than advertised.
18. Finger Free V3 ... FA: Peter Jones, early 2000's
Around to the right from #16 and #17, traverse the somewhat lichenous arête/lip to the left for about 12 feet, then top out where #16 and #17 do.
HUECO HANG
19. Hueco Hang Left V0 ... FA: Unknown
No hueco's here, although there are some on the overhang looming above. Surmount the short bulge up to a ledge at the vertical crack.
20. Hueco Hang Right V2 ... FA: Unknown
No hueco's here either. About 15 feet right of #19 and just right of a small leaning pine tree, surmount a bulge up onto a ledge.
THE RAMP
21. The Ramp V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
A contender for the best slab problem on the mountain! Ascend the slick low-angled grey slab just left of The Jug for about 24 feet using pebbles, pockets and thin edges. When you arrive at a bit of a stance with good hands, step right onto a ledge behind the topout for The Jug problems.
THE JUG
22. Legacy of the Kid V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
Just right of #21, climb the vertical left side of the red streak to huge incut edges. Continue straight up the left side of the high prow on good holds, then exit transition onto the top via miniscule crimps and an armyman-crawl topout at 24 feet. This one is very committting on thin topout holds with little chance for retreat. At a minimum, I highly recommend scoping out the topout first. Bravo Rob!
23. Red Streak V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
Climb the right side of the red streak to the incut edges, then go up and right on enormous jugs to top out with #24.
24. Right Red V0 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
Start a few feet right of #23, but finish on the same holds. Almost as fun and good as its neighbor.
25. Southwest Prow V1/2 X ... FA: Unknown
Start at a large undercling down in a hole at the base of the southwest corner about 10 feet right of #24. Do a couple of hardish moves to get started, then climb the line of least resistance 25+ feet up the low-angled prow to the top. A couple of spots will force you to think and it's along way down to the talus, but it's all there and the very top is quite juggy.
26. Southwest Face V1 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Twelve feet right of #25 up on top of a platform of sorts, this low-angle problem ascends pebbles, edges and pockets amongst the lichen for 20+ feet above a slot and talus block landing. There are lots of different ways one could climb this slab, although there is a fairly direct line to the top in the middle.
MUFFET ROCK
27. Muffet Rock Traverse V1 sds ... FA: Unknown *
Begin from a sds low on the right and traverse up and left for 15+ feet. At that point, go to the top on huecos and edges. There is a large 1000 lb teetering block 15 feet up and right from the start of this problem, so stay the hell away from it on the descent.
28. Muffet Rock Direct V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds with #27, but after about 5 feet ascend two bulges to the top at an obvious weakness. There is a large 1000 lb teetering block 15 feet up and right from the start of this problem, so stay the hell away from it on the descent.
SUNSHINE SLAB
29. Bush Route V0 X ... FA: Unknown
Left of #31 about 10 feet, climb straight to the high ledge 40+ feet up passing a ledge and a small dead tree on your left.
30. Reverse Inner Earth Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975
Traverse left to right across the length of the Sunshine Slab, finishing up #36 or at the far right hand end of the wall.
31. Aerial Ballet V0 X ... FA: Unknown *
Start up a well-featured section of holds to a stance, then venture up small pebbles and edges to the high ledge 40 feet up. If you like committing slabs, this finishing sequence is for you. See also the next 4 problems.
32. Difficult Route V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
A few feet right of #31, climb gently up the face to the high ledge 40 feet up using edges and pebbles that may be difficult to trust.
33. Michael’s Face V2 X ... FA: Jim Michael, 1975
Ascend the line that begins directly behind the tree and climbs straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.
34. Ament Face V2 X ... FA: Pat Ament, 1975
Just right of the tree and #33, climb straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.
35. Aesthetic Face V1 X ... FA: Unknown
A few feet right of the tree, climb straight to the high ledge 40 feet up.
36. Nubbin Wall V0 ... FA: Unknown *
Climb solid pebbles and nubbins up to a small ledge 15+ feet up. Now downclimb the problem, although it is also possible to traverse right and head down there.
37. Inner Earth Traverse V2 / V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975
Traverse right to left across the entire length of the Sunshine Slab. Stop at the end or head for the top with #29.
PROW ROCK
38. Prow Overhang V4 sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a low sds on the north corner of the boulder, use closely-spaced crimpers to bump your way up to the top of the prow and pull over. Short, but otherwise perfect.
39. Chicken Wing V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the opposite and downhill end of the same boulder as #38, move up into a large weird hole and pull up onto the top.
40. Pride and Prejudice V0/1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
On the large formation twenty feet to the east of #39, ascend the south-facing side up and left to the arête via incut edges to a ledge at 16+ feet. A couple reaches are necessary, but the holds are all there. Walk off the ledge to the left.
41. Pockets of Little Resistance V0 X ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From the same start as #40, ascend the south-facing side up and right via a somewhat chossy seam to attain a good pocket system that takes you all the way to the top, at least 40 feet up. Keep it together up there amongst all the pockets.
CAVE HANG AND THE LION'S DEN
42. Cave Hang V0 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
This steep northwest-facing overhang is behind some talus boulders out of view just right of the Sunshine Slab and east of Prow Rock. Scramble over the talus and this problem is obvious. Start matched on the high jug and pull out the overhang on incut crimps and edges. This problem is a candidate for the best V0 on the mountain.
43. Cave Hang Direct V5 sds ... FA: Unknown
The sds to #42 that is of lower quality. Start low on a good RH edge and a LH sidepull-undercling. Your first move must be quick, as most of the options for feet consist of disintegrating ballbearings.
44. Ivy’s Vine V0 ... FA: John Ivy, 1976
Go under #42 and #43 out the bottom of the cave and turn left to reach the last two problems. Six feet left of #45, start high and climb out the bulging topout.
45. Pocket Prow V4/5 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
This problem climbs straight out the south-facing overhang above a cave starting at the obvious shoulder-high pocket that is good for the RH. The straight-up topout is not trivial and will have you battling.
46. Pocket Prow Direct V7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004
The sds to #45. Begin from a sds underneath the horizontal roof at a rail. You will need to pinch the rail to thrutch out the roof, attain the pocket and then finish up #45.

Backside of the Amphitheater Miniguide

2010-01-30T22:18:00.000-08:00

I had optimistically hoped the childish graffitti on the Backside of the Amphitheater would be sandblasted away before I added this little area to the guide, but alas ... two years after I told the OSMP folks about it (twice), gave them my phone number and volunteered man-hours on behalf of this project, they still have done nothing and have never called. Try not to let the graffitti dissuade you from a short visit, as it is a nice spot, with at least two excellent problems: a left to right traverse of the entire wall that finishes up top and the up-problem out the center of the overhang. If we can get the graffitti removed, I will try and redo the Miniguide wihout the visual effects. Where: Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of Flagstaff Road across from the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and turn left when you reach the Pebble Wall. When you reach the top of the stairs 30 seconds later, head up into the Amphitheater proper and squeeze up and left through the Mongolian Cosmonaut Alcove. The Backside of the Amphitheater is located 15 yards past Mongolian Cosmonaut. The problems face north and essentially get full shade every day of the year, making it a nice place to visit in the heat of the summer.

1. Whiskey Before Breakfast V2 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Begin from a sds on a rail below the end of the traverse. Slide a little right and pull up and over the short bulge.
2. Hellen Keller V1 ... FA: Unknown
Pull on at end of the traverse, reach up onto the left-trending arête and surf left for 6 to 8 feet across the sloping rail. When the hands flatten out, rock over to a jug on the capstone and stand up.
3. North Overhang V2/3 ... FA: Unknown *
Start low in the center of the overhang and climb straight out the middle of the roof via an unreal crossover and reach to the lip. The crux is over, now match, move up to a hand ledge and keep it together while you pull up and over the capstone. Falling up there could be bad without a whole bunch of pads and spotters.
4. North Overhang Traverse V7/8 ... FA: Unknown *
From the low jug on the far left, traverse right all the way across the face, then up and over at the obvious weakness. The crux comes immediately, but it unfortunately involves avoiding the meddling boulder behind your back/butt without dabbing. Otherwise, a really nice traverse. Variation #1 - Full North Overhang Traverse V8: It is possible to start 4 or 5 feet further to the left on sharp chossy crimps. This may be worthy of V8, but this takes away from the quality of the regular line.
5. Old Mann Boy V5 ... FA: Ken Gibson, 2006
Start at the incut jug on the left side of the wall where #4 starts, pull hard up to a right hand edge and move left to the lip. From there, reach over the lip with your RH to a pebble, then paddle up pebbles and cobbles to safety.
6. Gap Overhang V2 ... FA: Jonathan Thesenga, mid 1990’s
Head around the corner to the left from the Backside of the Amphitheater. Squeeze back into the wide gap between the blocks that form the Right and Center of the Amphitheater. From the stance in the gap, climb the northwest-facing face to an overhang via cobbles, chossy edges and flakes and pull over the top.

Grassy Knoll Boulders Miniguide

2010-01-15T03:41:00.000-08:00

Grassy Knoll Boulders are comprised of two blocks, the aptly-named Broken Heart Rock and Diamond Overhang, both of which are located in the grassy area across the street from the Crown Rock Parking Area below the Pebble Wall and Red Wall Boulders. There's nothing hard here, but it can be a fun place to take a beginner, warm up or chill by yourself. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at the Crown Rock Parking Area, located 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain) or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Approach the boulders from the Crown Rock Parking Area by crossing the road, taking an immediate right downhill on the Flagstaff Trail. About 30 yards later, you'll see Broken Heart Rock on the left just off the trail. Access Diamond Overhang from here by treading lightly on a faint path for 30 yards to the northwest by walking directly towards Pebble Wall, the Amphitheater, Red Wall, etc.
BROKEN HEART ROCK
1. Broken Heart Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
From a sds on holds way down on the right, traverse left all the way into and up #6 without the benefit of the high jugs throughout the traverse.
2. Broken Heart Far Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a low sds on a rail and climb straight up and over. A hidden 2-finger divot up over the top should help with the finish.
3. Broken Heart Right VB sds ... Unknown
Begin from a sds and climb out the right side past jugs then slopers.
4. Broken Heart Mantel VB sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds and move up to jugs. With one hand on each side of the huge hueco, double mantel to get your feet up and reach the top. Easy fun.
5. Broken Heart Left VB sds ... Unknown

Begin from a sds on good edges, move up to jugs that turn to slopers on your way to the top.
6. Broken Heart Far Left VB sds ... Unknown
On the left edge of the overhang, begin from a sds, move up past 2 slopers to jugs. Continue up and over with branches behind you.
DIAMOND OVERHANG
7. Diamond in the Rough V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999 *
From a low sds on the corner beneath the large jug, yank to the jug, then continue via a couple more big moves on good holds to the top of this little-known and steep gem.
8. Rough Cut Right V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
From good starting holds under the overhang, move directly right and pull over.
9. Rough Cut Left V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Start on good holds under the overhang, move left up the crack and pull over.

Forgotten Ridge Miniguide

2010-01-15T03:15:00.000-08:00

Forgotten Ridge is an secluded ridge of rock with a handful of moderate problems and very few visitors. There are great views, wildlife aplenty, isolation unlike most areas on the mountain (in spite of its proximity to a 5-star restaurant) and a fun moderate or two. Where: Forgotten Ridge is a cool spot located 150 yards above The Flagstaff House steakhouse, although it should NOT be accessed from there. The best approach is to park in the pullout at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge (the First Overhang pullout). From the parking lot, hop on the trail and immediately turn right and head directly downhill. Cut left when you get to the bottom of the hill and continue north past King Conquer Rock and the Around the World Boulder. A very faint social trail heads north-northeast between the sparsely-growing ponderosa pines. After about 200 yards, you will arrive at a small ridge of climbable rock that is quite colorful. Problems are described right to left across this ridge and at least one problem (#5) may be found on a block just downhill to the east.

FORGOTTEN FIN

1. Forgotten Fin V0 ... FA: Unknown

In the middle of a cluster of a tight cluster of boulders, layback a seam on this colorful boulder until going for the top seems obvious.

2. Catch a Fire V4/5 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Begin from a funky sds directly below the starting hold for #1 and climb up into and finish up #1.

FORGOTTEN BOULDER

3. Forget-Me-Not V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *

Twenty yards north of #s 1-2 and just left of a tree, climb jugs up a short west-facing overhang to good topout edges. A really nice V0.

4. Forget About It V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Ten feet left of Forget-Me-Not, pull a short bulge on low and super-thin sloping microholds, establish on the slab on more of the same and dance up the dime-edged slab to the top. This one may induce laughing or at least it did for me.

FORSAKEN BOULDER

5. Forsaken V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *

Climb up the left side of the slightly overhanging face using a couple holds in/near a right-arching seam, moving right at the top to a perfect topout jug. At the time, I really wanted to do a proud line to the right, but it just didn't come together.

Makeout Boulders Miniguide

2010-01-15T02:52:00.000-08:00

A small section of chossy boulders that climbers rarely visit, although this area is well-used and abused by others. The rock isn't great and the problems aren't either, but you're likely to have them all to yourself during the day, along with the cans, bottles, glass, forgotten undergarments, cigarette butts, discarded condoms and whatever else is left behind by the nighttime visitors. Visit them shortly after a Trash Bash and the area will be fairly clean, but the problems will still be of the lowest quality. Where: Park at the Corwin Simmons Rock pullout 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge, which is the switchback pullout immediately before arriving at Capstan Rock. Walk back down the road 50 yards and take the Flagstaff Trail up the mountain for 70 yards and you'll see a cluster of boulders on the left. All but one of the described problems are in a tight cluster right there and the last problem is up the hill on the road at the switchback 0.1 miles before the Crown Rock Parking Area. Although you can scramble up to that problem, it is probably best if that problem is accessed from the road further up.
MAKEOUT BOULDERS
1. Truth or Dare V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2010
Ascend the face just left of the arête up the pebbles and poor crimps to the top.
2. Makeout Overhang V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
This is probably the best of the problems here, but that's not saying much. From a sds at a jug, move up using huge feet to access a rotten flake. From here, go to a shelf system and the top.
3. Dry Hump V0 sds ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2001
Begin from a sds at the base of a short chossy hump of rock, use some small edges to reach the sloping top and pull up and over.
4. All Hands V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Start on good holds on the far right side of the south-face. Hand traverse up and left above a small cave, then pull up onto the slabby top. Lichen has probably reclaimed much of this problem.
5. Phallus V1 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds under this short phallus, start up a rotten pocket system and pull up and over onto the top. The best thing about this problem is that I actually convinced Justin Jaeger to climb it.
6. Short Stuff V0 sds ... Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on a good sidepull pocket 10 feet right of Phallus and pull up and over a very short west-facing overhang.
7. Roadside Attraction V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
Just off the road, begin from a somewhat awkward sds on the arête and pull the bulge on the side of the boulder facing the road. This problem has the best rock in this zone, but it's only 6 feet tall.

Down the Mountain Cliffs Miniguide

2010-01-07T23:02:00.000-08:00

Down the Mountain Cliffs refers to a series of north-to-south ridges of of boulders and walls uphill from the Hobo Cave which overlook Boulder. There is a lot of rock and tall slabs here, but the majority of good sandstone for bouldering is concentrated in a little zone towards the bottom of the two west-most ridges of rock. Most of these problems are easy moderates, but several of them are quite fun and it remains quiet and peaceful here most days. Bring a beginner to the Plain Sight Wall with a couple pads for an excellent time. There is a lot of other rock in the area, some of it quite chossy. Several other unworthwhile problems have been done and not included herein for that reason. If you do something pretty good or noteworthy, please let me know and I'll try to include it. Where: There are numerous ways to get to these boulders, but I will give general beta for two of them: (1) park before crossing The Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain and walk 10-15 minutes up the Flagstaff Trail, passing the Hobo Cave on your right, then up 3 or 4 short switchbacks, passing numerous ridges of mostly chossy rock to the north until the trail turns north once and for all and brings you up to the base of the Plain View Ridge, the Front & Center Boulder and the Hueco Wall Ridge; or (2) access the Flagstaff Trail from the west (further up the mountain), by parking on the street 0.9 miles after passing over The Armstrong Bridge (there is room for about 6 tightly-packed cars here on the right hand side of the straightaway) just before the Flagstaff Trail crosses the road. When accessing these problems from the west hike down the Flagstaff Trail 1-2 minutes from the road until the trail turns south and brings you to the Plain View Wall Ridge, the Front & Center Boulder and the Hueco Wall Ridge. The Staircase is located 60 yards to the south of these problems. Find it by following the ridgeline south past some small outcroppings until you come to it. Half-Pint (problem #1), on the other hand, is found near the northern terminus of these cliffs, a couple hundred yards away from the rest of the problems, and explicit directions for that problem are provided below.

HALF PINT BLOCK

1. Half Pint V8 sds ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2008
At present, this problem is off by itself and has only seen a couple of ascents. Start under the roof on the right on obvious edges with sparse feet. An obvious face hold behind you will bridge the gap to the lip, but the trick is sorting out the 3 moves necessary to get into position for the finishing mantel. This one might be easier than V8 if you can skip the first move to the obvious hold on the face. Find this problem by leaving the main concentration of problems at the Down the Mountain Cliffs walking northwest along the Flagstaff Trail up towards the road. After about 40 yards (and about 50 yards before you get to the road), turn right on a designated trail that heads north towards Panorama Point. After about 30 yards, turn right down a rocky wash (not a trail) that trends downhill with a bunch of outcroppings on your right. After about 75 yards, as you near the northern terminus of the Down the Mountain Cliffs, a large dead tree will block the wash. Turn right and walk directly uphill from here about 20 yards. As you crest a small hill, the small northeast-facing little cave that is home to this problem will be obvious.
PLAIN VIEW RIDGE
2. Plain View Scramble VB ... FA: Unknown
Pull on at the shelf and scramble up this low angle spire using mostly good holds with big feet.
3. Plain View Lowball V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *
An overhanging problem with nice grips, but alas it is only 6 or 7 feet tall. From a sds right on the trail, pull on with obvious edges in solution pockets. A couple moves later, you'll be at the lip, which is the crux and may require a RF heel hook and mantel maneuver to pull up top. An OK little problem. One may also finish the traverses described in #13 and #14 here.
4. Hiding in Plain View V1 ... FA: Unknown *
From a stand start between the seams, ascend the overhanging face with good - although hidden - holds in the opposing seams and then again over the lip. A block awaits in the landing area if you blow the topout, so pad it up accordingly. An excellent problem for the grade. One may also finish the traverses described in #13 and #14 here.
5. Left Plain View Arête V0 ... FA: Unknown *
Begin from a stand start on an incut rail and ascend mostly jugs up the arête. When you reach the top of the arête, trend right until you reach an obvious place to pull over. An awkward sds adds nothing. The traverses described in #13 and #14 finish here, but they can certainly finish on other problems (see e.g., #3 and #4).
6. Hueco Rancheros V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Begin from an absolutely awkward and powerful low sds just right of the arête with your LH in the lowest hueco and your RH on the low rail. Do the crux move to the next hueco, then go to the incut rail at 7 feet. From there, take your time finding small grips hiding on the face on your way to the top. Skip the first move and climb straight up the face for ~V1.
7. Adjust Your Sights V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Begin from a very low sds just to the right of #6 using the low LH crimp on the rail and the large but low RH sidepull jug. Throw your RF heel onto the shelf, pull on and throw hard with your RH for the incut fin/rail. From there, trend up and left on big obvious holds with #8 to the same topout as #5 and #6. You can skip the first move for VB or just do #8.
8. Plain View Left V0 sds ... FA: Unknown
The line of least resistance on the wall from a sds. Start matched on the shelf with #9 and #10. Move up and left to the incut fin/rail and cruise up and left on big holds to the top with #7.
9. Five Crimps V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
A bit contrived, but a nice contrivance with an obvious rule (the huge incut fin/rail out left and useful for #8 is off). Start matched on the low shelf with #8 and #10 and make a beeline up a series of 5 obvious crimps that are almost in a straight line. This will bring you to the halfway point on the wall. From there, this problem continues up inconspicuous holds to pull over all by itself in the middle of the wall.
10. Sideswipe V2/3 sds ... FA: Unknown
Start matched on the low shelf with #8 and #9 and make 1-2 moves up the crimps used on #9, then veer up and right via a big move to a funky shelf of sorts with lots of friction. Match and continue with #11 to a nice topout on jugs on the right side of the wall. Finishing up the high arête is optional, low quality and adds nothing.
11. Plain View Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *
One of the nicest problems in the area. Begin from a low sds just below the large hueco. Pull on using two opposing sidepull edges and make a move into the large hueco. From there continue up good edges and crimps to the juggy topout. Beginning from a stand matched in the pocket is also ~V0, so you might as well just do the sds. Finishing up the high arête is optional, but adds nothing.
12. Right Plain View Arête VB ... FA: Unknown *
Begin from a stand start on the very far right and surf up the arête to the topout with #10 and #11 on jugs. Another nice easy problem. Finishing up the high arête is optional, but adds nothing.
13. Plain View Traverse V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Begin on the far right and traverse left across the wall using anything and everything to attain the incut fin/rail. A couple more moves to the left and you can finish up #5. It is also possible to continue around the corner and finish up #4 or #3, but stopping at #5 is the most obvious choice.
14. Plain View Traverse Low V5 ... FA: Unknown *
Excellent and sequential. A couple holds are sharp, but the rest are perfect Flagstaff grips. Begin on the far right at the arête and traverse left across the wall, using no holds above 5 feet. Drop down low after a few moves and complete the traverse by using the low huecos instead of the incut fin/rail to reach the left arête and finish up #5. You may continue around the corner and finish up #4 or #3 instead, but this adds nothing.
FRONT & CENTER BOULDER
15. Up & Right V1 sds ... FA: Kevin Cropp 2002
The west-facing Front & Center Boulder sits 20 feet west of Plain View Ridge, facing away from the trail. Begin from a sds down and left from the obvious and undercut fin on sloping edges, slide right to attain the fin and surf up and right to finish with #16.
16. Up and Left V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Pull onto the lowest part of the right side of the fin and battle up and slightly left to topout. Harder than it looks and - although sharp - it is fun..
HUECO OVERHANG RIDGE
17. Fin Jam V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
The Hueco Overhang Ridge refers to the spine of rock immediately behind The Plain View Ridge. This problem is located on the far left hand side in a little alcove of sorts, Start below a south-facing crack and move up to a handjam between two fins. From there, stretch for the top and pull over.
18. True Colors V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
On the west face right of Fin Jam, begin from a sds just right of the incut rail. Climb straight out the bulge without the benefit of the rail, finishing slightly left of the highest part of the wall.
19. Alcove Crack V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
Ten feet right of #18 and just left of a small pine tree, pull up into a small alcove and stance and make a few moves out the overhanging crack system via good holds up and over. The downclimb from the top of Hueco Overhang comes over and down into the base of this problem from the right.
20. Layback Bulge VB ... FA: Unknown
This problem starts ascends a short seam to the top. Go left to the downclimb.
21. Crumbs V1 ... FA: Kevin Cropp, 2002
From two obvious finger pockets in the middle of the overhang, pull on and trend slightly left up crumbling sloping edges to the top.
22. Christmas Tree Massacre V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
Begin with #21 at the two obvious finger pockets, move straight up to edges, perch, reach into the remnants of a hueco system near the top and pull over on jugs.
23. Christmas Tree Mystery V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
Begin 5 feet right of #22 at a large and low flake. Go up using edges, then reach high and left for the remnants of a hueco system near the top and pull over on jugs with #22.
24. Deliverance V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
Almost as disturbing as the movie of the same name. Climb the far right side of the wall at the dihedral/arête to the top. There are lots of good features, but I never got around to cleaning it properly. A lot of lichen and quite a bit of choss is still lurking. The fall is multi-tiered and hideous. For all these reasons, this is NOT a classic.
25. Hueco Overhang Traverse V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
Traverse right to left 10 feet from the arête and finish up #23. We originally started from a sds around to the right, but in hindsight it's downright stupid to do so, so just start on the arête.
26. Full Hueco Overhang Traverse V4... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Traverse right to left 15 feet from the arête and finish up #21. This one has great grips until the last sloper or two at the top of #21. We originally started from a sds around to the right, but in hindsight it's downright stupid to do so, so just start on the arête.
THE STAIRCASE
27. The Escalator V6/7 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2010 *
Begin with #28 and #29 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Slide left across an obvious rail with three decent holds on it. Throw your right heel up and make a huge move out left to the far left arête and battle your way up with tension to the top.
28. Project
Begin with #27 and #29 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Slide left to an obvious shelf, then make a hard move up to a sloping edge next to a seam before gaining the top.
29. The Staircase V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Begin with #27 and #28 in opposing and obvious hand cracks at chest/neck level. Make a move or two up to a good hold at the lip and steer left up the high arête on jugs to the top.
30. Miami Vice V3/4 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2010
Begin matched down and right from #27-29 on a large sloping shelf. Surf up and left up the rising arête to the top.

Corwin Simmons Rock Miniguide

2009-01-12T02:52:00.000-08:00

Just down the road from Capstan Rock, Corwin Simmons Rock has 60 years of history, yet it is largely forgotten for good reasons. For example, there's poor rock quality where the best line would be and it is largely slabtastic and/or inundated with lichen elsewhere. One line is fun, clean and really worth doing (#4), but it's only V1 and there's no good way to get down off the top, so you'll probably end up downclimbing and jumping like I did. There is one presumably undone line that looks doable and is pretty, but it's ~30 feet tall and the rock quality is suspect AT BEST. Where: Again, the easiest of directions. Corwin Simmons Rock has its own little pullout/parking area. Head up Flagstaff Road and park 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at the large formation on the left at the bend in the road just before the Capstan Rock pullout. For your reference, the parking area for Corwin Simmons Rock is about 50 yards before the parking area for Capstan Rock, Cloud Shadow Wall, Notlim Boulder, etc. Good luck with this one!

1. East Overhang V1 X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
Climb the center of the east slab to an overhang, pull the bulge on small holds and top it out. Lichen-covered, death-defying and virtually forgotten.

2. East Slab VB X ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
Similar to East Overhang, without the little overhang. Ascend the right side of the east slab to the top. Enjoy the lichen and pine straw.

3. North Face V2 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s
This thin problem that appears to have been swallowed by the tree. Battle through the branches and other debris to get on this thin line.

4. Northwest Corner V1 ... FA: Corwin Simmons, late 1940’s/early 1950’s *
Right of the tree, ascend pebbles and edges up a corner to a interesting friction move up high. Good, but be prepared to descend by downclimbing once you're on top.

5. Project V? X
Start on disintigrating crimps and attain an obvious seam. Follow the seam to the top and sort out the finish. I strongly recommend vigorous cleaning and rehearsal on toprope, although I did not see any easy ways to set up a toprope. Yard on every hold and fully weight every possible foothold. Good rock may reside underneath, but the outer surface of most of the rock on this side of the block is friable, chossy and generally disconcerting. The topout is innundated with lichen too.

Capstan Rock Miniguide

2008-11-28T08:50:00.000-08:00

Capstan Rock is Flagstaff Mountain's most obvious bouldering spot, as it sits in the middle of a hairpin turn in clear view from the road on both sides. Among the problems found here are a number of fine highballs and one of Jim Holloway's best boulder problems and one of the Vermin standards for V7, Just Right. Drivers heading up and down the mountain have been slowing down here and gawking at boulderers for decades. The last photo is of a boulder I've christened the Hairpin Boulder, for lack of any other name. It lies a little closer to the hairpin turn than Capstan Rock and has a couple moderate challenges. Where: These are the easiest of directions. Head up Flagstaff Road and park at the tall free-standing monolith on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge. The parking here can get crowded on perfect afternoons/evenings, so park respectfully, leaving room so others can squeeze in. Lots of other areas including Rear-End Rock, Pedestal Boulder, Cloud Shadow Wall, Cloud Shadow's Alcove, Cloud Shadow's Other Side, The Dark Side, Nook's Rock, Road Sign Rock, Brown Glass Wall, the Notlim Boulder and the Unmentionables are ALL almost always accessed from this parking.

CAPSTAN ROCK
1. The Trough V4/5 ... FA: Dave Rearick, 1961 *
From a LH sidepull edge and RH pinch, pull on and go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, reset and throw RH for the jug at the bottom of the trough. Finish by pulling up into an undercling cobble and a comfortable stance. In the 10 years I've been climbing on Flagstaff, this problem has gone from V2 to V4/5, as the holds at the lip keep getting smaller and smaller. Historically, this problem has been called V0, so maybe the edges were even bigger in the distant past. DOWNCLIMB NOTE: To downclimb any of #1-8 and #10-12, head down to the undercling cobble at the top of #1 and either jump to the pads or make a couple of sketchy moves down and right onto the boulder leaning up against the east face of Capstan Rock. Another option, although few do this, is to pull the bulge at the very top of the seam, climb to the top of the boulder and descend the north face to the road.
2. Daydreamer V8/9 ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1 *
Formerly V8, the edges at the lip have disintegrate quite a bit. From the same start as #1, go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, match and slide left into the topout for #6. See downclimb info under #1.
3. The Trough Direct V8 sds ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1
Begin from a LOW sds, RH on the large cobble and LH on a small sidepull or in a small mono. Work your way through a perplexing, painful and powerful sequence until you can finish up #1. See downclimb info under #1.
4. Daydreamer Direct V9/10 sds ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1
The sds to #2. From the sds using the same holds as #3, do the perplexing, painful and powerful sequence to the broken edges at the lip, match, then slide left to finish with #6. Formerly considered V10, Jonathan Siegrist repeated this line in 2009 and suggested V9 in spite of the edges that have disintegrated off the upper lip that were useful in moving left into #6. See downclimb info under #1.
5. Just Wrong V9 ... FA: Chris Hill, early 1990’s
Begin with the same starting holds as #6a, but your first move is a bewilderingly huge LH crossover to the high pocket. Finish with #6 and #7. See downclimb info under #1.
6a&b. Just Right V7 (a) / V9/10 (b) ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1973 *
Climb this classic and obvious line up the right side of the South Face. The standard start (a) involves a cheatstone or stacked pads. Get the best part of two opposing crimps, get your feet on, bump your LH up to a funky grip, reset your feet and go big with your RH to the large sloping pocket. From there, several exit sequences exist, but the idea is to pull the bulge up top, making a long reach straight back to the sloping trough. For the harder start (b), begin without a cheatstone and reach high into the opposing edges slightly below the true start for #6a. Being tall will help and may make this easier. Shorter folks will have to at least stack pads until they can reach the lower start, as it is only a few inches lower for the RH than the cheaterstone start. See downclimb info under #1.
7. Direct Just Right V? sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1990's
Formerly V9, this one is thought to have had only two ascents (Skip and Ben Moon) before one or two good edges above the slopey rail sheared off in the mid 1990's. The sds has gone unrepeated since. I'm throwing down the gauntlet based on feedback from several climbers ... this will be the hardest up problem on the mountain when it goes again and a couple of the BIG names are close. Begin from a sds on the large obvious angled shelf 3 feet off the ground or down in the even lower sidepull undercling in the hole slightly to the left. From the sloping shelf, use bad edges and to span the distance up and into #6. All the moves have been done by a couple of different folks, so it's just a matter of linkage, good conditions and time. See downclimb info under #1.
8. So Wrong V8 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2000 *
Except for the start, this problem is every bit as good as #6. The original start involves a big jumpstart to matching edges on the left side of #6. The alternative start is to do the first move of #6 and match it up. After that, the next couple holds are decent, then move left using a small LH edge in a seam and a high committing RF heel-hook to do a RH crossover up to the high fin. It's not over until you've reached the seam at 25 feet, several feet left of the top of #6. Bring lots of pads. See downclimb info under #1.
9. Diverse Traverse V5/6 sds ... FA: Unknown
Start matched on the angled shelf at the base of #5-7, move through underclings, then battle past the crack all the way into #15. A little tweaky passing #12.
10. The Capstan Dyno AKA The Direct South Overhang V6 ... FA: Pat Ament 1968/9 *
From South Overhang’s starting pockets, maybe use the pebble as an intermediate to throw up and right to a sloping dish. Continue straight up to join #11 and #12 and go to the top of the seam. See downclimb info under #1.
11. South Overhang V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
From the pockets just right of #12, reach/slap up to edges just right of the crack, joining the crack higher up for the finish. See downclimb info under #1.
12. South Crack V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, early 1960’s *
Use severely polished feet to start up the pin-scarred finger crack. Tall, but the crux is the first few moves. See downclimb info under #1. Variation #1 - South Crack Sit V5 sds: Begin from a sds, in underclings in the hole down and to the right and - without using the pockets at the base of #10 and #11 - reach for and establish in the crack and finish #12.
13. Sarabande V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *
Start up #12, the pockets just to the left or a combination of both. After ~10 feet, trend slightly left up a system of pockets and rails for 25+ more feet to the top where #14 ends. This one does not get a lot of traffic, so your ability to find the easiest and safest path to the top will be tested. With long slings wrapped around a weird feature up top, it’s possible to set up a toprope.
14. West Face V1 X ... FA: Unknown *
Pockets and polished edges take you up this 35+ footer. Reaches are necessary, but it’s all there. With long slings wrapped around a weird feature up top, it’s possible to set up a toprope to work it out.
15. Northwest Edges V3 ... FA: Unknown *
Ascend thin edges up to the sloping topout maneuvers. So good.
16. Northwest Traverse V2 ... FA: Unknown
Traverse up and left across edges to a lock-off move to the obvious large pebble around the corner, then pull around and establish on the face.
17. Northeast Mantel V0 ... FA: Unknown
Right next to the road. From a stand start at a sloping shelf on the far left of the north face, surf up and right across the shelf to the obvious mantel ledge and fight your way up there.
18. There Will Be Car Wrecks V7/8 sds ... FA: Anson Whitmer, 2009
Begin from a sds down low with your RH in the pocket and LH out left on one of a couple bad sidepull slopers. Creative footwork will allow you to make a violent move up with your LH to the lip. Once you've matched here, slide right to the sweet spot and mantel onto the ledge per #17. Watch out for cars, seriously.
19. Northeast Corner V4 ... FA: Unknown
From a good undercling a couple feet left of the northeast corner, move up to small edges and numerous pebbles that allow one to pull over.
20. East Face, Far Right Side V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
The name for this scary problem is a misnomer. Start atop the talus boulder leaning against the east face and the slabby pebbly face which faces southeast to the top.
HAIRPIN BOULDER
21. Hairpin Left V0 ... FA: Unknown
Climb straight up to the ledge using an edge or two and several good pockets.
22. Hairpin Right V1 ... FA: Unknown
Head up the short dihedral to the lip, then trend right to topout.

Unmentionables Miniguide

2008-11-03T22:32:00.000-08:00

The Unmentionables refers to previously undocumented and obscure blocks that reside between Road Sign Rock and the Backside of the Amphitheater. There are no gems, although there are certainly problems of dubious quality on dubious rock. There is also nothing hard here, as the rock quality does not make it amenable to hard problems. The one not-quite-redeeming quality is that if you check it out, you will have the place to yourself. A few of these obscure problems are worth checking out if you don't mind dicey rock quality. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then continue up the hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road passing Road Sign Rock on the right. Where the faint footpath takes off downhill towards the Notlim Boulder and Hollow's Way, another faint trail will head up an initially gentle hill to the west to two sets of boulders. You will reach the first cluster of climbable boulders and 5 problems after 50 to 75 yards. To reach the second cluster of boulders and 6 more problems, head straight uphill up a steep and loose wash just after the Bonzai Boulder. After 75 yards and after passing lots of worthless choss on the right, you will come to a small platform. One problem is up and left, while 5 more are off to the right.

UNMENTIONABLES BLOCK

1. Unmentionables Warmup VB ... FA: Unknown

A couple easy moves straight up and you'll be on top. Problems #2-4 are on the north or downhill side of this boulder.

2. Fingerlock Catfight V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

From good edges on the northeast corner, a hard move gets you to an undercling fingerlock pocket. Now pull the bulge and go to the top.

3. Lucky Strike V3/4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Start 10 feet right of #2 and steer up and slightly left from stance to stance up the bulging slab to the top. Sketchy, until the last bit.

4. Paris-Roubaix V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *

Oh the cobblestones! A couple feet right of #3, ascend cobbles and pebbles up this 25 foot grooved slab with committing moves up high.

BONZAI BOULDER

5. Bonzai Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown

Just north of the faint footpath, pull the northeast-facing bulge up onto a slab. Avoid the small bonsai tree that may still reside a few feet to the left.

PEAR BOULDER

6. Pear-Shaped Women V5/6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006

When you arrive at the top of the steep hill and the second cluster of boulders, look to your left and 20 yards away is this lowball north-facing overhang. Begin from a sds on an obvious RH hold and any of 3 LH holds that are within reach, the lowest of which provides the stiffest challenge. Pull up and over the bulge.

OVERTON FIN

7. Overton Fin V1 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006

When you reach the top of the steep hill, look right and you'll see this diminutive little piece of stone under a chossy spire. Begin from a sds and surf left across this short fin of good rock and pull over on jugs.

UNMENTIONABLES ALCOVE

8a&b. American Spirit V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Continue past #7 around and into the alcove for #8-11. Moss and lichen are trying to reclaim this one. Right of #9, ascend a bulge and slab from the obvious LH sidepull and RH jug (a). Descend off to the right from the slab. You can opt to up the grade to V4 if you start RH on the cobble (b).
9a&b. Spooky V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Opposite #10, ascend the arête right of the chimney from a head-high start (a). Pull over onto the slab and head for the top. You can again opt to up the grade to V4 if you start a move lower slightly to the right (b).

10. Seeing Ghosts V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Opposite #9, ascend the left side of the chimney for 16 feet to the sloping topout. The rock quality at the bottom is horrid, but it gets much better the higher you get and its all worth it..

11. The Hand of Man V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
The name comes from an obvious handprint left by someone years after this problem was established. Start low and left on crimps and trend up and right to an unsatisfying finish below a crumbly headwall guarding the top. I suspect one could easily extend this problem by bringing stickbrushes and aggressively cleaning the topout before working it out.

Road Sign Rock & Brown Glass Wall Miniguide

2008-10-12T01:40:00.000-07:00

Road Sign Rock hosts a selection of lowball problems, whereas the Brown Glass Wall is a good place to do some moderate highballin', occasionally with an X rating. A few problems have been added to the historical repertoire of problems that other guidebooks have covered, so check them out. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then walk up a hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road and you will be confronted with the obvious Road Sign Rock with the OBVIOUS drilled pockets just off the road. Around the back side of this boulder on the right is the beginnings on what has become known as the Brown Glass Wall which continues down the hill for an additional 30 yards. Just beyond this is the Notlim Boulder and the classic everyone has to try Hollow's Way.

ROAD SIGN ROCK

1. East Bulge V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

Start right next to the road on two head-high slopers. Heel-hook the top, bump to thin pebbly edges and fight your way up top.

2. Road Sign Right V3 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using only the rightmost drilled 2” pocket, move up to the good edge and pebble and top out.

3. Road Sign Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980’s

From the same sds as #4 on the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, traverse right across all four drilled pockets, then find a way to pull up on top. Interesting, yet tricky and painful. Consider taping up a couple of your digits once you figure out which ones need it.

4. Road Sign Left V1 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using only the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, pop up to the good edge at the lip and pull over.

5. Northwestern Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, use small edges and pebbles and good feet to pull straight up and over around the corner to the right from the sloping rail. The feet are really good which makes up for the sparsity and size of the features for the hands.

6. North Overhang Direct V6 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to the sloper rail. As soon as you are on the rail, topout straight up by going RH to the small flat pebble all by itself in the middle of the bulge. Work your feet and go LH to either of two slopey lumps directly above the pebble and battle your way up top. A nice problem that you will have to work for, but a bit contrived to be worthy of a star.

7. North Overhang Traverse V3/4 sds ... FA: Unknown *

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail until you reach several small finger divots and finish up #9.

8. Full North Overhang Traverse V6 sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail. Stay low and continue further left than #7 via more heel-hooks, body tension and long reaches to topout with #10.

9. North Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown *

Not quite a sds, start low on finger divots and edges just left of the well-chalked rail. Heel-hook and make a long mantel up to either of two large pebbles and finish up and over.

10. North Face VB ... FA: Unknown

Left of #9, start on good edges above a small boulder to do a move to the lip and pull up into the branches.

11. Northeast Bulge V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

Start a few feet right of #1 at the bottom of a good layaway rail that arches upward. Throw a heel and pull yourself up top. Harder than it looks.

BROWN GLASS WALL
12. Mopping Up V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start at the base of a gash about 15 feet right of #s 13 & 14. The gash narrows to a thin seam after a few feet, but edges will get you to the top where a jug awaits.

13. Bucket Right V1 ... FA: Unknown *
From the first juggy flake on the prow, steer right around the corner up edges. Continue to the top past edges and knobs to a large dish/hueco up top. Airy and fun.
14. Bucket V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975 *
Climb juggy flakes up the west face of the leaning prow up to a slopey beachball ledge. From there, do a scary and committing reach or throw to the very top of the prow above what is certainly a no-fall landing. Fun until the end and then extremely committing. Game on!

15. Detached Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown
Hand-traverse the detached right-arching ledge system up and right and pull over. Pray the entire bulge doesn’t detach any further while you're on it.
16. Brown Glass Overhang V6/7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002 *
Before the Trash Bash Era, hundreds of broken bottles resided at this problem's base. They're all gone now and all that remains is this really good problem. Begin from a sds matched on the sloping shelf down low on the arête and bump your way up bad holds down low on the arête. The difficulties mercifully come early, then you slide right and finish straight up. As of 2009, holds down low have broken twice, making it a bit burlier than it once was.

17. Briggs’ Bridges V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Climb pebbles and edges up the 20'+ rounded arête on the right. Bring numerous pads to protect you from the exposed leg- and ankle-breaking roots below and spotters to protect you from the mellon-splattering blocks behind them. A better idea is not to fall.

18. Fear on Layaway V4 X ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2003

Start up mostly pebbles with #19. Then use the LH layaway just right of the good flakes with your LH to move right up the face over to topout with #17. As yet, only done after extensive cleaning and toprope rehearsal. It's very insecure up there and the fall is the same as #17, so don't blow it!

19. Right Side V1 X ... FA: Unknown *
Start up mostly pebbles on the slabby shield down low, then pull a small roof via some good flakes and go up and left to the top. Quite possibly the best highball V1 on the mountain ... actually ... #22 may be better!
20. Right V V0 X ... FA: Unknown

After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #21, use huge right-arching edges to reach for holds over the top and pull over. It's funky and committing up there in spite of the moderate grade.
21. Left V V2 X ... FA: Unknown

After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #20, climb left out the deep gash that allows for a solid jam or two as you move up and left to better holds at the topout.

22. Back Extension V1 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *
On the left side of the wall, climb jugs and low-angled rock to the jug-haul roof just left of the topout for #21. Awesome!

23. Meddling Blocks Traverse V3/4 ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the jug above the left end of the meddling blocks. Make a long RH reach to a jug rail and continue up and right without dabbing on the blocks. Once your established on the arête, cruise up it to the top.
24. Stem Rise V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Stem off of the top of left side of the meddling boulder behind you on #23 to establish up on the face just left of #23. Now you are faced with a 30' (maybe taller), lichen-infested and somewhat chossy slab that has probably only seen a couple of ascents. Climb the line of least resistance past some obvious features to the top. When I repeated it a few years ago, I was not a happy camper up there, as I made no efforts to preclean it. Variation - Project V?: A direct and proper start to #24 that would start at the jug seems feasible ... assuming you are interested in doing the rest of this committing and dirty highball.

Cloud Shadow Wall Miniguide

2008-09-11T00:11:00.000-07:00

Problems have been concocted all over the expansive length of the Cloud Shadow Wall. A few are independent and obvious. Many are contrived in one way, shape or form, but the rock quality is excellent so that even the contrived problems provide interesting and worthwhile challenges. This wall is often crowded, particularly in the afternoon, due to an abundance of traverses, moderate problems and the full sun that the wall receives every afternoon. There are problems of all grades between VB and V12, including one of Jim Holloway's "Big Three," Trice, the world's first V12 and still the hardest up-problem on Flagstaff Mountain. By my count, Trice saw 6 repeats between November 2007 and March 2008 on the heels of Andy Mann's Climbing Magazine article on Jim Holloway in late 2007. In late 2008, Alex Puccio nabbed the first female ascent. All of this is borderline shocking, as it sat unrepeated for 32 years. Props must go to both Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson for "reopening" the problem on the same day in November 2007. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach Cloud Shadow Wall is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to the magestic Cloud Shadow Wall.

1. Hagan’s Alcove V1 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969
There are lots of ways to start this one (from the right/from the left/sit-start). Once you're standing on the right-leaning ramp, head straight up the bulging face to the top using edges, pebbles and a thin pocket or two.
2. Launching Pad V3/4 ... FA: John Baldwin, 1986
This problem has been the subject of some confusion over the years due to a missing pebble that broke off in the 1990's. In 2008, the pebble was restored to its original condition. Reach high to pissy side-by-side edges and/or the restored whitish-pink pebble if you can reach it. Perch on the right side of the right-leaning ramp and once established on the whitish-pink pebble, get your RF up on a small edge and make a move with the quickness up and right with your RH to an edge behind another pebble steering away from #1. From there, head directly to the top.
3. Soon to be Souvenir V8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008
A hardish direct start to #2 that is now possible due to the restored pebble. Begin above a slanting slab of rock imbedded in the ground between #2 and #4. Start with your RH high on an obvious toothy crytalline pincher edge and your LH on something poor and not all that helpful (there are a couple options). Power up and left to a good pinkish-white pebble on #2 that was recently restored. Hope it stays and go again to another good edge behind a pebble and head for the top with #2.
4. Dandy Line V7 ... FA: Dan Stone, 1980
Climb atop the 2nd boulder left of #5 via some funkyness. Reach to a crumbling half-moon edge with your RH and either jump or match and get a foot on and go to a high LH edge, then to the top. Unfortunately, the high starting edge continues to disintegrate and this problem's future is uncertain.
5. Hagan’s Wall V5 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969 *
Where the trail meets the wall, balance on top of a small boulder on the left and get your LH on the high and sharp edge and your RH into the 2-finger pocket out right. Now get your feet on, reach/swing/throw to the sloping diagonal seam with your RH. There are couple ways to do the finish. A funky double-pebble hold followed by jugs will help you get there. But for the annoying cheaterstone start, this would be a classic anywhere on Earth. As it is, it's merely a classic problem on Flagstaff Mountain.
6. Project

A possible and true direct start to #5. There are obvious starting holds and feet which aren't horrible, but a long and difficult move guards the entrance to #5. C'mon strongmos, this would be the hardest problem on the mountain if someone did it.
7. Hagan’s Wall Direct V10 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2000 *
Begin slightly to the right of #5 and #6. Choose amongst a number of bad edges around head-height and tiny nubbins for feet, pull on and go LH into the 2-finger pocket (you get this hold with your RH on #5). From there, get the small finger divot just up and right with your RH. Move your LH left to the sharp edge on #5, switch your RH into the 2-finger pocket and finish #5 to top out. An even lower start which has not been done is possible, beginning matched on the starting crimps with #s 8-10.
8. Yojimbo V? ... FA: Christian Griffith, early 1990’s
Lots of the features on this problem, some of which were reinforced with glue in the 1990's, have broken or deteriorated. It probably still goes, but at a much higher clip than the grade given in the 1990's of V8. Start matched down low on the half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10 and climb the face immediately right of #5-6 straight to the top. Today, this thing is heinously thin and at least V11 or V12. It is also contrived, as all but the supermotivated will be tempted to move slightly left into #7 or slightly right into #9 and avoid the original line altogether.
9. Shadowline V9 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2008 *
Squeezed between #8 and #10 is a recently completed Peter Beal problem that is distinct from #8. From the same half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10, go LH to the obvious crimp/pinch directly above and RH to either of two bad sloping pinches (note: the keyhole hold is off-route). From there, go to a thin LH crimp before gaining better holds at the fifth handrail (on #13) and finishing. This one has seen quite a few ascents and although it is distinct from #8, it is a nice replacement.
10. Hand Traverse Direct V8 ... FA: Unknown
A bit circuitous, but the easiest way to the top from the start shared by #s 8-10. Begin on the same half-moon starting crimps and head up and right to the fifth handrail (on #13) which is 5 or 6 feet up and right from the starting crimps. All the holds on are "on" including the "keyhole," a fingerslot located just below the sloping fifth handrail. Crossing over into the "keyhole" is easier said than done, but doing so may help you attain the fifth handrail and finish with #13.
11. Third Handrail Direct V2/3 ... FA: Unknown *
From the perfection of the third handrail (on #13) , pull on, slap a sloper and arrive at a series of jugs. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet.
12. Second Handrail Direct V3... FA: Unknown *
Awkwardly pull on at the second handrail (on #13) on another set of perfect starting holds and immediately get a decent RH sidepull sloper, adjust your feet and go to better holds including a sinker pocket. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet.
13. The Hand Traverse AKA Ramp Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown *
Some guidebooks have listed this classic as V2, although during discussions of grades in the past, it is possible that folks confused it with #14. In any event, start at the first of five perfect handrails and traverse left across the remaining four handrails, trending upward with pissy footholds most of the way. From the fifth handrail, get your feet up and reach way left to a decent crimp, match and continue up the ramp to finish. I would suggest having this one wired if you hope to receive full credit for either #22b or 23, as it is pumpy and scary in it's own right and adds tenuous moments to the end of both of those pumpy-as-hell problems classic traverses.
14. Escape V2 ... FA: Unknown *
Start and begin traversing with #13, but from the fourth handrail escape upward and finish with the fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet. This version is easier and feels a lot safer than #13, explaining its popularity with the masses.
15. Upper Traverse V1 ... FA: Unknown *
From the right-most (first) handrail, reach right to a pocket then head up to good edges. Continue up and left across jugs and other good holds for a total of 30 feet of moderate fun.
16. Bob Williams’ Pull V4/5 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969/1970
A one-move wonder that is probably height-dependent. Roughly in the center of the wall, find a vertical line of three pockets. Cram one or both sets of fingers into the highest of these, a circular pocket 6 feet up. Then put your LF up on the slippery sloping handrail and swing or throw to the large solution pocket more than 5 feet up and left. Fun for a laugh.
17. Diagonal Break VB ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets and head straight up to the diagonal break on good holds. Once there, use anything and everything to ascend the slab/gash to the top just above where #15 traverses across the face.
18. Cloud Shadow Solo VB X ... FA: Unknown *
This 40+ foot "problem"/solo is intimidating and falling is not an option higher up, yet it's all there. You can literally start anywhere in the vicinity, but the easiest way is to start at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets with #17. When you reach the diagonal break, find good holds to head out the intimidating headwall to the top, where there are a few ways to safely finish. Long reaches are sometimes necessary even higher up, but the holds are really good and the footholds are all reasonably secure. Despite the VB grade, this "problem" is obviously not for the faint of heart or beginner boulderers.
19. The Consternation V3/4 X ... FA: Unknown *
Another way to climb into the topout for #20. Begin on the low diagonal rail jug. Head up and left along the diagonal break to jugs at 10 feet, reach left to a pocket, get your feet up and stand up tall to attain just below the finish for #20, the site of much consternation. See #20, for more info about the finish.
20. The Contemplation V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
Left of the bulge, start up a series of pockets, then trend left across a series of more complicated grips including an undercling to a good set of holds and a stance with meager feet at 16 feet, the namesake site of much contemplation. From here, reach up and right to find an edge and pocket, get your feet up and now further contemplate the mess you’ve gotten yourself into as you pull onto the finishing slab blessed with plenty of lichen and very little, if any, chalk.

21. The High Cloud Shadow Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Unknown *

From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges. As you move left, stay reasonably high so you can finish with style across #15, laughing all the while at the foolfaces below troubling themselves with the slopey handrails and pissy footholds.
22a&b. The Cloud Shadow Traverse V4 (a) / V5 (b) ... FA: Bob Poling, late 1960’s / early 1970’s *
From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges until you arrive at the first of the five handrails. From the first handrail, continue across and up #14 for V4 (a) or #13 for V5 (b). Both are classic challenges, not because any of the moves individually are all that hard, but rather because the sloping handrails and pissy footholds are a frustrating nightmare when you're pumped at the end.
23. The Low Cloud Shadow Traverse V7 ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1988 *
A bit contrived, but alas really good! From the well-chalked diagonal jug that is also the starting hold for #19, traverse left staying low across very low crimps, pinches and only the lowest of the shallow finger pockets using no holds over 5 feet high (including the starting hold on #16) until the proper finish across #13.

24. The Moderate Bulge V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 and start up the pockets (crux). Once the start is behind you, get a LH sidepull/undercling in the large solution pocket ~11 feet up, head for the incut rail up and right. Pull over from there and traverse over to the right to get down. One of the best for the grade on the mountain.
25. The Consideration V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969 *
Classic. Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24 and aim up and right to the top. The key is getting your LH in the second pocket and bumping to the well-chalked 6-finger crimp rail with your RH. A small crimp is available for your LH before you stop considering your lack of other options and GO for the incut rail at the lip. Right up there with Hollows Way in terms of quality ... one of the very best on the mountain, regardless of grade. Variation #1 - True Consideration V3/4: The way I understand it, this is Ament's original sequence. Start up #25, but once you get the RH on the 6-finger crimp rail, match your LH with your RH (instead of using the small LH crimp) and reach/throw for the lip. The match-and-go to the lip makes the finish a little more difficult and a lot more exciting, as in LOTS of consideration.
26. Reverse Consideration V4 ... FA: Jim Holloway, early 1970’s *
Switch hands for your first move on #25, going RH into the second pocket. For the next improbable-looking move, get your LF perched high and do a wild crossover with your LH all the way to the 6-finger crimp rail. The key is having your feet perfect. From this ridiculous body position, uncoil, match, ignore the LH crimp, throw for the lip and pull over. This is a crazy problem from the word go.

27. Epoch V12/13 ... FA: Carlo Traversi, 2007 *

This probably should have been listed as a variation, but since it's a link-up into the hardest up-problem on the mountain, I've listed it separately. From the same start as #29, traverse right 3 moves into and up #30. Doing anything before you have to do #30 probably adds something.

28. UCT to Bob’s Bulge V9/10 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *

Start with #29, and do the first 7 moves or so of #29, but finish up the sharp slopey rail with #32 & 33 (NOT above the dihedral with #36).

29. Undercling Traverse (UCT) AKA Low-Level Traverse V8/9 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *
Originally named the Low-Level Traverse. I could go on and on about why this problem SHOULD NOT start in the arbitrary place that it does, but the historical acceptance of this start probably cannot be undone. So ... begin with your LH in the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24-26 and your RH in the sidepull (slightly underclingy) pocket slightly down and to the right. It's 10 or 11 moves until you can finish up via the dihedral and #36, which is rated V2 by itself, but will feel much harder when you escape the long moves and underclings preceding it.
30. Trice AKA A.H.R. V12 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1975 *
One of Holloway's Big Three that saw lots of action and 6 sends during the winter of 2007-2008. Begin this problem on the good LH sidepull and RH undercling. From there, go RH into the the shallow pocket ~9 feet up, get it just right (there is a slight trick that helps for some folks) and use a high LF heel or toe to lock-in and snag a small sloping edge with your LH. Keep your LF or reset it to throw up and right with your RH to the sloping rail, get a jug at the top of the rail and pull over onto the slab.
31. A.K.R. V11 ... FA: Jim Karn, 1988 *
A variation to #30 established when Jim Karn was one of the strongest climbers on the planet. From the same starting grips as #30, go LH into the same shallow pocket as #30. Fire right to the sloping rail and fight the twisting swing. Regroup, get the jug at the top of the sloping rail and pull over onto the slab.

32. The Holloway Direct V7 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974 *
A more direct start to #33 that begins with both hands matched on the good undercling. From here, do a long move out the the sharp slopey rail, where the battle continues up #33.
33. Bob’s Bulge AKA The Bulge Traverse V6 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969 *
Historically, people started matched up on the sloping left-trending rail, but today ... start LH on the good undercling and RH at the bottom of the sloping left-trending rail. Initially, bump your RH up the sloping rail, then use a high RF scum next to your RH to establish both hands on the rail and start surfing. A real battle and definitely much harder than the previously published grade of V5, although a foot and a half of terra firma have eroded here and people used to start higher. Once you've done this one, #28 and #32 traverse into #33 to finish.

34. Will’s Bulge V5 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2005

In hindsight, I probably should have listed this problem as a variation, but it's too late for second guessing. Start immediately left of the right-facing dihedral and #36 on a LH undercling and small RH pebble. Reach up to the first holds on the slabby face located between the sloping rail (the finishing rail for #s 28, #32 & #33) and the dihedral/seam that is used to finish #29 and ascend #36. From there, ascend the bulge/slab angling up and left between these features without using any holds in or right of the seam for your hands or feet.
35. Epochalypse V13 ... FA: Daniel Woods, 2008 *
Currently the hardest problem on the mountain, which could have 10 additional feet of climbing tacked onto the start, which would - at a minimum - solidify the grade. Begin with #36 at the dihedral, traverse left ~6 moves under the bulge until you reach the start for #30. Now, topout #30.
36. Far East Inside Corner V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968

Just right of the bulge, start at the good layaway crack in the right-facing dihedral and battle your way up onto the ramp.
37. Sloping Mantel V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968/9

Just right of #36, thin shoulder high crimps sit at the edge of a polished sloping ramp. Use them to pull yourself straight up there any way you can. A laugher and sooooo much harder than it looks.
38. Reverse UCT AKA TCU V9/10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 1998 *

There has been some confusion about the grade of this problem, mostly stemming from folks misunderstanding the true start ... which begins from a low sds ~10 feet right of the dihedral at a little cave on the very far right end of the wall. Battle across small edges with RF heelhooks until you reach the dihedral and can find your sequence under the bulge. Keep at it until you can finish up #25 on the other side of the bulge. Props to those who start in the dihedral, head left and finish, but note that you have NOT properly done what is historically known as Reverse UCT.
39. The Full Cloud Shadow Traverse V10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2001 *

Sixty-plus feet of traversing action on some of the best rock on the mountain. Begin from a sds with #38 at the low cave at the far right end of the wall and traverse left, continuing left under the bulge with #38. Where #38 joins and finishes up #25, continue left, joining #22b, the classic traverse of the wall that finishes up the five handrails on the left side of the wall. Very long and pumpy with poor feet. Variation #1 - Trolling for Mank V10/11: Another technical 60+ footer with lots of places to make mistakes. This is a Justin Jaeger variation to #39 that instead of joining and finishing across #22b, drops down to join and finish across the lower and more technical #23. Of note, Justin began traversing from the starting crimpers of #37, skipping the first few moves from the sds on the very very far right.

Pedestal Boulder Miniguide

2008-08-17T23:39:00.000-07:00

Located near the east end of Cloud Shadow Wall, the Pedestal Boulder possesses a number of fine moderate problems that mostly serve as warmups before folks get silly with all that the Cloud Shadow Wall offers. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach the Pedestal Boulder is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. The Pedestal Boulder is the free-standing lump of rock located 10 feet from the east (far) end of Cloud Shadow Wall.

1. East Slab VB ... FA: Unknown

Start low on the left side of the east face and head up obvious holds.

2a&b. East Seam VB ... FA: Unknown

From either start, climb the slab/crack with lots of positive surrounding features to the top.

3. East Bulge V1 ... FA: Unknown

Contrived but fun. Start with #2b. With good feet, move up and establish in a short seam with some handjams and an undercling. Surmount the top bulge using poor features, including a small edge, on the shield of rock between #2 and #4.

4. Northeast Layback V2 ... FA: Unknown *

Really good and fun. From the starting holds for #5 (a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal), move up to matching crimps and continue straight to the top. The easiest and funnest way I've found to do this problem is to bump into a high flake jug with your RH, high-step and pull yourself up top.
5. Steven Tyler Visits Boulder V3/4 ... FA: Peter Jones, 1996 *
A fun, slightly harder and challenging variation to #6 that begins from a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal, slide right to edges on the lip and continue across the lip with sparse grips and slopers to topout around the other side of the boulder with #8.
6. Pedestal Traverse V2 ... FA: Jim Erickson, 1969 *
From a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal, trend up and right up a rail sytem that continues around the other side of the boulder to topout with #8.
7. Achey Variation V3 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1980 *
Start under the left side of the west-facing overhang on obvious holds and reach up, back and left with your LH to the rail. Match and pull directly up top here.
8. The Roof V0 ... FA: Unknown *
Not a roof. From the same starting holds as #7, make a long easy reach to a small RH crimp, go again to the rail and pull over the left side of the west-facing overhang.
9. The Notch VB ... FA: Unknown
A few feet right of #8, but left of the tree and the downclimb, climb up and over on big holds on the right side of the overhang.
10. Pedestal Arete VB ... FA: Unknown
Twenty feet right of #9, down by itself and well right the downclimb and the tree, start low on and continue up good holds to a moderate topout.

Cloud Shadow's Alcove Miniguide

2008-08-11T10:22:00.000-07:00

Cloud Shadow's Alcove is the moniker for the corridor splitting the middle of The Cloud Shadow complex of rock. On the south side of this huge complex of rock is the Cloud Shadow Wall and on the north side is Cloud Shadow's Other Side. Other Miniguides cover both of those areas. There are a number of good problems of various styles and difficulties here, although the fun that can be had may not be all that obvious on first glance. Look again, unless you are solely motivated by really hard problems. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach The Alcove is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As you approach the western edge of the wall, turn left and head slightly uphill for 15 yards. The problems start here and extend down both sides of the corridor as well as up in the talus on the left on both ends of Cloud Shadow's Alcove.

NORTH SIDE OF THE ALCOVE

1. Annual Birth V2/3 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008

Start on the obvious holds on the southeast corner and without using the low shelf for feet, traverse left across the roof and lip of the overhang until you can topout on the far left.

2. South Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown

Start at the southeast corner, slide left a tad and maybe use a chossy intermediate or two to get your feet up, grab the top jug and pull over.

3. The Alcove Dyno V7 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003 *
A one-move wonder, but a pretty good one. Start with #1 and #2 on obvious juggy grips on the southeast corner with marginal feet. From there, throw 5+ feet up to the high corner and pull over. Harder and more subtle than it looks on first glance because the feet are poor. Like most dynos, this one may feel slightly easier for those that are tall, have long arms or mad ups.

4. East Overhang Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown *
Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-3 and traverse a few feet right to join #7 for the topout.

5. New Beginnings V8 (a) / V9 (b) ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008 *

Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-4, and traverse right, staying low which will bring you to the starting hold for #8. Now climb #8. You can either finish up the easier version of #8 (a) or the original and harder version (b).
6. East Overhang Left V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds on a large sidepull up under the east face. Move up into the undercling and then out the short overhang just left of the prominent crack. The crack is on and useful for the RH, but everything right of it is not.
7. East Overhang Crack V2/3 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *
Begin with a LH undercling and RH in/near the crack splitting the face (a) or begin from a sds on a large and low sidepull with #6 that precedes the good undercling (b). Either way, the topout is a little devious until you've got it wired.
8. Curmudgeon V7 sds ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1983 *
Begin from a sds four feet right of #7 under the roof, this time on a right-facing sidepull jug. Climb straight out the short overhang on the amazingly perfect crimps with very cool moves. All feet are on, but the the vertical crack and the handholds associated with it out left are off-route. There are a couple tricks for this one that make it a bit easier than folks once thought, including a LH bump move to a crimper edge, a somewhat dangerous but bomber heel-toe lock and a kneebar scum that works for some folks. Safety-wise, there is a little horn on the slab behind the climber's back that easily allows you to hang a pad on the slab for safety. Variation #1 - True Curmudgeon ~V8 sds: Christian Griffith's original sequence for this problem avoided a formerly chossy hold that has cleaned up and serves as a useful LH crimper edge that you can bump to from the holds below. Off-routing this hold forces the climber to make a longer and more difficult RH move off the small and slick LH edge to the high and flat RH edge while avoiding a hip-DAB on the sidewall. Although originally thought to be quite a bit harder, the consensus grade for Christian's original sequence - now that the beta has been fully tricked-out - has settled in at solid V8, although this move may be a little harder for shorter climbers.
9. Chubs V9 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
This problem is quite hidden. Scramble up into the talus above problems #1-8 to #10, then scramble up and left towards the road. Drop down into the obvious hole and head into a cave to find a 45 degree southwest-facing block with an additional capstone block on top of it. Start all the way down in the cave underneath it on a good RH sidepull and poor LH pebble. Get your RF up near your hand and make a crux LH bump move to an incut jug with your LH. Match and use other good holds to move up to the lip of the the boulder. From there, reach to the lip of the capstone above it and top it out. Bring some pads to work the initial move, because if you can do that, you should be headed for the top.
10. Graveyard Shift V6 ... FA: Misha Zavalov, 2008
Twenty feet up and right from #8, but down and left from #11 is this steep west-facing problem on a small boulder above a slot landing that requires a few pads. Start low matched on a rail, go RH to a good incut and go LH to a good incut sidepull. Bump the LH once or twice more to higher holds, arriving at the sloping lip and roll over with style.
11. Sailor’s Delight V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
High up above the middle of the corridor, after ascending a slab is a short but imposing roof. Reach out the roof to jugs at the lip and roll over. It’s difficult and unwise to backtrack once you commit to the lip so it's best to finish with confidence on the jugs up top.
12. MOB V9 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
The next three problems are located up in a nook slightly around to the right from #11 and up above #15. This small east-facing alcove sports leg-breaking talus landings, so bring some pads. This problem begins matched on side-by-side slopers below the lip 3 or 4 feet left of the starting flake for #13. From the starting grips, go to the lip and topout straight up, if not slightly left. It has been suggested that the sds for #14 into this problem will be double digits.
13. Amently V2/3 ... FA: Peter Jones, 1994
Four feet right of #12, begin matched at a high stand start just below the lip on a good flake with an incut sidepull. Go up to the lip and topout via a possible mantel.
14. The Deuce Deuce V6 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
A sds that climbs up and into #13. Begin matched down and right under the roof and climb up and slightly left into #13 for the topout.
15. Jagged Little Thrill V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Near the east end of Cloud Shadow's Alcove, but still on the north side, start low and hand-traverse up and left on jugs that start down low on the far right. Trend up and left to the top of the perched boulder and pull over.

SOUTH SIDE OF THE ALCOVE
16. North Slot V0 ... FA: Unknown
From a low start, climb the edges and somewhat chossy slot to the top.
17. Crack Allegro V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974 *
Right of #16, start on holds above your head next to the right-arching and sloping seam and work your way up the seam to the top.
18. Allegro Bulge V2 sds (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *

From a sds right of #17, climb perfect edges out the bulge to a possible mantel finish. The V2 version (a) uses ALL the feet. The V4 version (b) off-routes the big foot shelf out right for the start, making use of an incredible LF heel-toe cam to get started.
19. Allegro Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds, start on good holds several feet right of #18 and traverse left - staying low across the Allegro problems - to a finish up the wide slot that is #16.
20. Alcove Traverse V7 sds ... FA: Willie Mein, mid 1990's
Start as per #19, but continue 10 more feet left around a bulging arête with poor holds to establish on and finish up a low angle slab inundated with lichen. This one is too grungy for my taste once you round the corner, but maybe it will clean up with some more traffic.

Cloud Shadow's Other Side Miniguide

2008-08-06T15:11:00.000-07:00

Not to be confused with Cloud Shadow's Alcove, as that is covered in another miniguide. Cloud Shadow's Other Side is located on the north side of the Cloud Shadow complex of rock up in a strangely isolated spot. There isn't a lot here, but there are a few lines worth playing/warming up on and one absolute gem, Stranger Than Friction, and all of its variations. Where: There are a couple ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Continue along the guardrail past the halfway point in the hairpin turn and look for a gap in the boulders up to the right. Rockhop through the gap up into an open area and you're there. All the problems are within 10 yards of one another.

1. The Other Side Arête V2/3 ... FA: Unknown

Begin on holds at head height on the arête and go to the top.

2. Pebble Wrestler V4 ... FA: Unknown

Just left of #1, start on head-high pebbles on a vertical face. Perch in a pocket foothold and make a big move to snatch a sloping crimp up on the ramp and continue up and right to the topout with #1.

3. Aching Absence V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Directly below #4-6, from a sds climb out from under a little overhang onto the slab.
4. Space Ship V5/6 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Start matched on good edges in the horizontal seam down and right from the start holds on #4. With good feet, stretch LH to the RH starting hold for #4. Then, as you gently lean into the LH gaston, go hard for and catch the lip with your RH pulling your feet up to avoid your pad. Hold the swing and pull over with #4.
5. Rocket V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
This is a one-move-wonder out the short overhang on the slab. Begin from a sds up on the high slab on a good RH sidepull edge and a decent LH undercling or thin crimp. Find your feet, make a move to the lip, slide right and pull over.

6. Project V? sds

A lower and direct start to #5 that has cleaned up quite a bit over the last couple years, but has still not been done. Start low matched on a good edge and make two difficult moves up into #5. An even lower start begins way down and left with #7-10 and ascends good but sometimes friable edges up and right.

7. Pulp Friction V7 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008 *

Problems #7-10 start in the same place from a sds on the detached block. This one climbs out the thin face above on a series of thin crimps to a topout at good finishing holds. ALL feet are on, including the starting block. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two, as the landing is uneven talus and the integrity of the good crimps is still in question.

8. Doctrine of Equivalents V6 sds ... FA: Scott Neel, 2008

Problems #7-10 start in the same place on the detached block. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From the good RH pinch, start up the arête with #9, but instead of topping it out straight up, veer right across edges and slopers on the lip until you reach good finishing holds with #7.

9. Santos on Mom's Command V6 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008 *

10. Stranger Than Friction V6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006 *
A little bit of Hueco Tanks on Flagstaff Mountain that is crazy fun and one of the best problems on the mountain. Begin from a sds matched on the detached block down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up and perform a 6 foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From here, swing your feet through to an obnoxiously high heel/toe hook and continue straight up the little slab feature with body tension, controlled thrutches and bumps involving small edges on the face out left. This one does not disappoint!

11. Pile V6? sds ... FA: Botsy Phillips, 2006

Start down low at a juggy flake in the birth canal hole below #7-10, ascending the left side's slopers and possible jams in the crack up into #10 for the finish. This one is not as bad as the name suggests, but DAB potential exists during one's travel through and exit from the birth canal.

Panorama Point Trail Miniguide

2008-07-23T01:54:00.001-07:00

This area is comprised of a few blocks littered along the sides of the officially unnamed linkage trail that heads up from Panorama Point across the meadow, through a sea of foliage and across Flagstaff Road, eventually passing Nook's Rock on your right before joining the East Flagstaff Trail down below Cloudshadow Wall. If walking up from Panorama Point, you will find the previously unnamed Panorama Rock and Panorama Roof, Scalawag Rock and The Hall of Horrors. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking area. After 100 yards you'll pass some bathrooms. Shortly thereafter the trail will crash into Panorama Rock and a number of fine moderates. On the opposite side of the trail, maybe 20 yards away is Panorama Roof. Head up trail for 100 more yards, wind through some dense foliage, and Scalawag Rock will be on your right. Continue further up trail, cross Flagstaff Road, and after 30 yards The Hall of Horrors will come into view up on the right. If you see Nook's Rock up on your right, you've gone too far.

PANORAMA ROCK
1a&b. Panorama Notch V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *
From a knob on the protruding corner (a), pull into the notch and up onto the top. A sds (b) begins on low crimpers and swings for the knob.
2. Panorama Arête VB sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds, climb the well-featured southeast arête on good holds to the top. One of the best novice problems on the mountain.
3. Panorama Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Unknown *
Start with #2 and hand traverse left across the ledge system, dropping down at the halfway mark and finishing up #8 on the far left.
4. Panorama Traverse Low V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin awkwardly from a sds under the shelf and traverse left, staying under the shelf all the way into Southwest Bulge. Silly, awkward, bunchy and contrived.
5. Panorama Face V1 sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds just left of #4, do some long moves on big holds straight up the face into the branches.
6. Capstone Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown *
From a sds, pull the bulge with #7 onto a ledge. Trend up and right around the roof to an easy - yet airy and insecure - finish on a small ledge requiring balance and steady footwork. The topout sequence makes this one really fun and worth the effort.
7. Capstone Left V0 sds ... FA:Unknown
From a sds, pull the bulge with #6 onto a ledge. Steer left below the roof and use spooky incut edges on the perched capstone boulder's face to pull over the very top.
8. Low Bulge V0 sds ... FA:Unknown
From a sds on the far left next to a crack, pull the low bulge up onto the ledge.
PANORAMA ROOF
9. Panorama Roof V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
Just south of the trail, begin via a sds on jugs under the almost horizontal roof, throw back to the lip and pull over on good holds.
SCALAWAG ROCK
10. Scalawag V5 ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1978 *
Climb the right side of the northeast face up and left to the incut hueco at the lip. Thin crimps, shallow divots and a pebble or two will get you to a point where you will have to make a move for the high hueco.
11. Large Hueco VB ... FA: Unknown
Just right of the northwest corner, climb to the top via the large hueco.
HALL OF HORRORS
12. Wasabi V3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004
Begin from a sds matched on the obvious ledge. The key to pulling the bulge is getting to a RH sidepull undercling and a sloper before good crimps up top.
13. The Gristle V1 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008 *
Begin standing below the ledge, just right of the tree, and climb the face above slightly to the right. From the starting holds, slide right to a large pocket, reach LH to the protruding pebble on the face and get a small RH crimp, where the good topout grips come into view.
14. Nuke on High V2 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008
Start with #13, below the upper ledge, and ascend the left side of the face just right of the tree. The key is getting your RH on the protruding pebble in the middle of the face before moving to crimps just short of the top.
15. Quasimodo V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *
Doesn't look like much, but climbs very well. On the right side of the corridor, begin from a sds and head up and right up a series of incut underclings. From the last undercling at 10 feet, make a reach left to a crimp and pull the interesting bulge probably walking your feet up to your hands on a slabby ledge. Once standing on the ledge, an incut crimp on the upper slab at 20+ feet will allow you to relax, roll over onto the slab and head for the top. This one will have full your full attention for a few delicate moments.
16. Pickled Pigs Feet V5 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008 *

Begin with a sds with #15 and slide left to a LH undercling and RH 3/4-finger gaston in a shallow pocket. Make a huge crux move up and left to an incut sidepull. Now pull the delicate bulge 12 feet up on small edges and slopers to establish on the slab and continue up the slab for 20 more feet of fun.

17. Hall of Horrors V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *

Ascend the 35+ foot slab that is perfect, except that it wants to be inundated with lichen, pine needles and other debris. The useful features have been thoroughly cleaned, but nature may have it's way with this one if others don't climb it. Watch out for an interesting sequence 20 feet up that will have you considering your other options.
18. Gefilte Fish V5 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004 *
Start RH on a pebble 7 feet up and LH on any of the other holds (there are lots of options). Perch onto the crappy ledge, make a move with the quickness to a protruding pebble or gritty sloper, then up to the lip and the large shallow dishes on the slab. Pull over onto the slab and head up easy terrain to the top.
19. Canned and Jellied V7 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *

A possibly height-dependent sds to #18 that begins hugging the arête with your RH on a small pebble way out right and your LH on a decent crimp. Make a long move to get to the starting RH hold for #18, then use any number of pissy LH holds to perch and finish with #18.
20. Dr. Strangelove V4/5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004
Almost a laugher. A couple feet left of #18, start on any of the holds below the lip, pull on, slap the top, heel-hook, rock over (desperate comedy) and dash up the tall slab to the top.

Nook's Rock & 30th Birthday Roof Miniguide

2008-06-27T00:22:00.000-07:00

Nook's Rock is named for one of Flagstaff Mountain's first boulderers, the infamous Layton Kor. Flagstaff Mountain regulars have been enjoying quiet and surprisingly cool sessions at Nook's Rock ever since. Nook's Rock is surrounded by shade-giving pines at the bottom of a steep northeast-facing hillside which hosts all the Dark Side problems. Nook's Rock offers up some must-do cruiser slab problems, multiple challenging bulge problems on the east side above an undercut and a testy traverse with some variations that add some difficulty. Colin Lantz added some nice problems around here, including the feisty arête problem Slut Bammer and a couple of lines on the 30th Birthday Roof. There's also Will LeMaire's unrepeated testpiece, Window Shopper, as well as Butt Slammer, a beauty of a line that hasn't been repeated since a key flake broke shortly after the first ascent in 1974-75. Where: There are other ways to approach Nook's Rock, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of problems on the right. At the bottom of the hill - where the trail levels out - a large boulder will come into view. This is Nook's Rock. Appropriately, the first thing everyone notices is Butt Slammer.

NOOK'S ROCK

1. Slut Bammer V6/7 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2004 *
Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into the topout holds for Butt Slammer.

2. Butt Slammer V? ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *
Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. However, plenty of holds remain and this one definitely goes, it's just a question of "when" and "by whom?" Bringing lots of pads and a couple spotters would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.

3. The Scoop VB ... FA: Unknown

Climb the low-angled and well-featured line of least resistance up the southwest face up into the branches. This is also the primary means of retreat off all the problems except the bulge problems on the east side.

4. Nook's Southwest Arête VB ... FA: Unknown *

Simply put, climb straight up the southwest arête for ~20 feet.

5. Nook's Slab Far Right VB ... FA: Unknown *

A few feet left of #4, climb straight up the far right side of the west-facing slab ~20 feet to the top.

6. Nook's Slab Right VB ... FA: Unknown *

A few feet left of #5, pull on just right of 2 trees and climb ~20 feet to the top.

7. Nook's Slab Left VB ... FA: Unknown *

A few feet left of #6, start behind a tree just left of center and climb ~20 feet to the top.

8. Nook's Slab Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.
9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges and slopers up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.

10. Wimpie’s Revenge V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5 *
Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.

11. Wimpie’s Revenge Left V0 ... FA: Unknown *
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.

12a&b. Nook's Traverse V8 (a) / V9 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown / sds: Ted Lanzano, 2006 *
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but what I do know is that this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10: A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as adding a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves up to the start for #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low ~V8) and then finish with any of the VB problems on the slab. Essentially, V10 = V5/6 + V8 + an OK rest + V8 + VB slab problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!

13. Northeast Corner V2 ... FA: Unknown
At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.

14. Ashes to Ashes V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006

Begin via a sds using a LH undercling and a good RH sidepull, do a hard move, reach up to #13's starting holds and finish up #13.
15. Project
An obvious lip traverse that starts with #14, but traverses left all the way across the lip to a nice topout with #s 21-24. Start with #14, slide left into the first few holds of #16, attain the lip and begin the battle across poor lip features. Possibly double digits.

16. Nipple Shredder V6 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2006
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but very poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab using an obvious right foot, all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.

17 . Northeast Undercut Far Right V3/4 ... FA: Unknown
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good edge useful as a pinch and grovel over.

18. Northeast Undercut Right V3 ... FA: Unknown

Start in the same place as #17 with both hands on subtle imperfections above the lip (your exact hand placement may be slightly different). Get a foot on, bump left for a incut crimp, match and pull over about where #20 tops out.
19. Project
An obvious line that has been thoroughly cleaned and tried quite a bit lately, based on the look of things up there in early 2010. Begin from a sds on obvious edges down low. Not sure where this one will end up topping out, but finishing up #17 or #18 makes the most sense if someone can bridge the gap between the starting holds and the lip. Double digits are likely.
20. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, pull on and slide up and right to an edge. Mantel or go hard up and right to a crimp, pulling over about where #18 tops out.

21. Northeast Undercut Far Left V2/3... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go to a perfect incut LH crimp and pull over with style.

22. Glass Plus V9/10 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2006

Read the description for #23 ... OK, begin just right of #23. Switch your starting hold for your LH onto the miserable RH starting hold for #23 and get your RH onto a pebbly crimp that has a good thumb catch underneath. Get your foot onto the obvious cobble, go the lip and top out per #21. A slightly lower start has been proposed, but to my knowledge has not been done to date.

23. Don't Touch the Glass V7/8 ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2006 *

Have this rig wired if you intend to start working #24. Begin matched on 2 poor side-by-side grips at head-height below the start for #20 and #21. Pull on (difficult in and of itself) and go for the lip with your RH (crux). There are lots of candidate holds to choose from at the lip, but they are difficult to catch and hold. Hold the swing and topout via #21.
24. Window Shopper V12? sds ... FA: Will Lemaire, 2006 *

In contention with Holloway's Trice for the hardest up-problem on the mountain. Begin from a sds way down and left from #20-23 on the lowest LH and RH opposing sidepulls. Bump up each hand to higher opposing sidepulls, then slide directly right across frustratingly miserable holds until you can finish straight up #23. Originally, I split the difference between the 2 grades Will gave me (V10 and V12), but since one of its already too few holds has broken and four years have gone by without a repeat of the full line, this one is most likely V12 or harder today.
25. Window Dressing V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006
While standing in front of the starting holds for #24 and #26, jump really hard to a hard-to-see sloper 10 feet up with your RH, hold the twist, establish on the lip and surf left to a topout on the slab on incut crimps.
26. Shopping For Dressing V9 ... FA: Eric Harrison, 2009 *

A proper start to #25, that begins on opposing crimps at chest height. Slide right just a bit, then make a big move to the hard-to-see sloper just above the lip. A lower start with #24 on the lowest opposing crimps might put this into double digits.
30TH BIRTHDAY ROOF
27. Jimmy, Stop Putting Erl Down the Terlet V6/7 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Find the undercling on the right, close to the end of #29. Pull on here and traverse left about 8-10 feet to the final crimps before the prow and topout #30.
28. Just Slightly Different V9 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *
Begin on the far right at the undercling with #27. Again, traverse left, but continue around the prow and ascend #31 without the benefit of the prow arête. It is tricky and core-intensive to get your feet around the corner to topout #31.
29. The 30th Birthday Roof Traverse V5/6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête. Slide right across crimpers on the right side of the prow, then use good feet and a combination of grips on and under the lip to continue right 10 more feet to a tame finish on the very far right of the boulder.

30. The 30th Birthday Roof V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994 *
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #29 and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête and the crimps just slightly to the right of the prow. Once established on these crimpers, top out right there. Kind of short, but a fun battle typically ensues on the topout. Long pants may come in handy during the topout.
31. Backrub V6-8? ... FA: Peter Jones, 2005/6 *
Begin matched on the same undercling with #29 and #30, but pull out to a selection of sloping crimps left of the prow. Without using the prow arête, go the the top on small sloping edges. Different sequences exist and grades between V5 and V10 have been reported, with the truth residing somewhere in between these extremes. Time will clarify the grade as beta is refined and the easiest sequence becomes known and used. If you have an opinion, weigh in. Votes so far with varying beta include V5, V6, V8, V8 and ~~V10~~.
32. And Now For Something Completely Different V6 ... FA: Ben Collett, 2009 *
Start matched on the undercling with #29-31 and do this fun variation to #31 on the left side of the prow that allows you to use the prow arête on your way to the top.

Notlim Boulder Miniguide

2008-06-18T05:37:00.000-07:00

Apparently someone was a fan or detractor of Milton, which is Notlim backwards. Although there are a few lesser-known problems on this block, the Notlim Boulder is known for being home to one of the most coveted V8 ticks on the Front Range in Hollows Way. Done by Rob Candelaria in the mid-1970's, the name was his tribute to the fabulous Jim Holloway. One look at the tangled root-infested landing area, the thinness of the layback seam and the intimidating final move, it is almost inconceivable that this problem was done during the pre-crashpad era. The exposed root system at the base is worrisome until this rig is fully padded up. Although it is certainly not a highball in modern terms, there are lots of ways to potentially come off this problem and hurt yourself. Well padded, however, it is a safe and incredibly aesthetic line to climb in a secluded spot away from the masses. Even better, it faces north, gets NO sun and can have decent conditions even in the middle of summer in the morning and evening. If you can only get on one problem on Flagstaff Mountain, this would be a solid choice assuming V8 is in your price range. Where: There are a couple ways to approach this boulder, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the steps to Capstan Rock, pass it on your right, scramble up the short hill and cross the road. Pass Road Sign Rock on your right and follow a faint and winding social trail that drops downhill to the north into the woods, passing the highball Brown Glass Wall on your right. The trail will deposit you at the base of the Notlim Boulder after about 20 more yards.
1. Botsy's Way V5 sds ... Botsy Phillips, 2007
Begin from a sds matched on a jug on the left side of the little cave. A long tensiony RH move to a sloping edge and a crossover snag of the lip will get you into the easier topout moves. At least 2 pads (one to pad the meddling boulder behind you) are necessary.

2. Northeast Corner V2/3 ... FA: Unknown
From good starting holds above the obvious cobble, step onto the large cobble, go for the lip maybe slide left a bit and roll over onto the ledge.
3. Lifted V7/8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009

A lower start to #2 with a whole new twist. Begin with your LH on the obvious cobble and your RH on a poor undercling edge and climb the arête/seam to the lip and pull over via #2.

4. Hollows Way V8 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975/6 *

Best for the grade on Flagstaff Mountain and one of the best irrespective of the grade. Start matched high in the stellar 15 foot overhanging and shallow seam up the middle of the north face and start up the thin holds in the seam. One of the best things about this problem is that numerous solutions exist. Have fun figuring out what works best for you!

5. Right Dihedral V2 ... FA: Unknown

Eight feet right of Hollows Way, use good matching crimps to stand atop the meddling boulder below and reach an incut RH flake. Lay the RH flake back to pull the bulge, veer into the slabby dihedral and make a committing reach move up high on thin feet. I recently re-cleaned this line, making it climbable for the first time in at least 10 years. The potential landing area is about as bad as #4, but it pads up nicely with 3 or 4 pads.

6. Southwest Pebble Pull V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the left side of the thin slabby southwest face of the Notlim Boulder, dance up and slightly right using small pebbles to the topout on opposing underclings.

7a&b. Two Scoops V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001 *

Start matched in edges in a head-high scoop (a) and pinch a second scoop to reach small edges and a handjam crack which you can milk to the top. For the sds (b), begin on the lowest sharp crimps and use a powerful RF heel hook to pull out the overhanging bulge, establish in the first scoop and finish via the stand start.

Cookie Jar Miniguide

2008-06-14T02:05:00.001-07:00

The Cookie Jar is yet another formation on Flagstaff Mountain with a long and sordid history. Essentially climbed-out in the early 1960's, almost all of the "problems" are proud, but fairly moderate in modern terms. Most folks know the almost unbelievable story about Ray Northcutt's tumble off Northcutt's Roll, which deposited him all the way down onto the road. Undeterred, he completed the climb shortly thereafter. Lesser known, however, is Larry Dalke's hushpuppy solo of this "problem." Talk about performance anxiety! Around 1960 - while Pat Ament was still a beginner, Bob Culp introduced him to Jackson's Pitch, doing it in a suit and tie during an after-work session. I certainly hope it wasn't summertime. Where: There are a couple of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park at the Flagstaff House Parking Area on the left 0.7 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Walk up the road another 1/10th of a mile until you arrive at the The Cookie Jar which is just off the road on the right.

1. The Rough One V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969

Next to the road on the boulder just north of The Cookie Jar, pull a challenging east-facing bulge and ascend a low-angle slab and left-facing dihedral to the top. More interesting and challenging than it looks, but it starts almost in the road.

2. Northcutt’s Roll V3 X ... FA: Ray Northcutt, late 1950’s
Ascend the slightly overhung east face to a bulge that deposits you on the slab up top. Be aware that if you choose to boulder this one out and fall, you could bounce and/or roll into the road. Toprope rehearsal is strongly recommended, but make sure you know how to properly use directionals to keep the rope in place.
3. Right Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *
About 6 feet right of Cookie Jar Crack, just before the hill falls away, climb up then left 25 feet up good edges to the top. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.

4. Left Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Climb the tall face with perfect edges just right of Cookie Jar Crack. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.
5. Cookie Jar Crack VB ... FA: Unknown *

Climb the obvious south-facing wide crack problem to the top. Good holds abound, but use the toprope anchor if you are unsure. Best VB problem on the mountain, although it is probably wouldn't be the best idea to expect a beginner to boulder this one out.
6. Jackson’s Overhang AKA Russian Nose V1 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *
A few feet left of Cookie Jar Crack, pull out the overhang on good holds to a ledge and pull a couple more moves to the top.
7. West Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start under the west overhang, move into a thin undercling and surmount the bulge onto the ledge.
8. Access Pitch VB ... FA: Unknown
The northwest corner has a dihedral and ledges that you can easily descend or get you to the top to set up that toprope.
9. Commitment V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
Appropriately named, make along reach to start and ascend the bulge on the right side of the north face above a boulder and altogether grim landing. Use the anchor up top if you like.
10. Jackson’s Pitch V2 ... FA: Dallas Jackson or Bob Culp, late 1950’s *
In the middle of the north face, surmount the low bulge starting on a good incut and undercling. The top’s easier, but the rock is a little questionable ... so tread lightly up high.
11. Kor’s Corner V0 ... FA: Layton Kor, late 1950’s
Ten feet left of Jackson’s Pitch, climb the right-angling, somewhat chossy, crack system up and left to the top.

Dark Side South Miniguide

2008-06-09T05:20:00.000-07:00

The hillside labyrinth known as The Dark Side is the collection of boulders lying between Nook's Rock and the Cloud Shadow complex of rock. This miniguide will cover the southern half of the Dark Side's problems, as Dark Side North was covered in another miniguide. Problems are numbered, beginning with problems that are about 30 yards south of Nook's Rock and ending with problems that are about 100 yards uphill from there. Like the rest of The Dark Side, the entire area is well shaded by trees and almost all of these problems face north so conditions can sometimes be quite good when it is hot elsewhere on the mountain. Where: There are a number of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of obvious problems on the right. When Nook's Rock comes into view, you are there. Dark Side South problems begin 30 yards south of Nook's Rock on the left side of the main social trail if you are walking back towards Cloud Shadow Wall. As you are heading uphill on this trail, there are three formations on the left, all within 25 yards of one another, ie: Stage Rock, The Jim Hall Boulder and The Pillar. There are two other formations on another fainter social trail/wash that parallels the main one about 10 yards to the north. To find these problems, walk 10 yards towards Nook's Rock from The Jim Hall Boulder and head directly uphill. Incuts Overhang comes first and is on the left. Continue uphill and Slot Overhang will appear in front of you imbedded in the hillside. The HOH Overhang is up in the talus west from there, as tone's throw from Stranger Than Friction and the rest of the Cloud Shadow's Other Side problems.

STAGE ROCK

1. Exit Stage Left V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Left of the Jim Hall Traverse is a small overhanging boulder. From a low sds underneath, start LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling. Make a couple moves up and slightly left, then make a long LH move out the left side of the overhang. You can start matched on the lowest edge, but that edge is likely to break if we don't take it easy on it.
2. Exit Stage Right V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Start from the same sds as Exit Stage Left, with your LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling, crossover LH to the rail and match, then pull out the overhanging bulge slightly to the right. You can start matched on the lowest edge, but that edge is likely to break if we don't take it easy on it.

3. Stage Rock Lip Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Unknown

I left this butt-dragger undone, but someone has done it since. Start low on the far right, lift your ass off the ground and traverse left a couple moves to topout with #2.
THE JIM HALL BOULDER
4. The Jim Hall Traverse V4 ... FA: Jim Hall, 1980’s *
Begin down low on the far left and traverse right across the overhang about 30 feet. At the end of the overhang, pull up and over. Variation #1 - Subterranean V10: A 2008 Peter Beal linkup variation to #4. Start across #4, but a little more than halfway through the regular traverse, drop down #7 to the low flakes, slide right and finish up #8. Variation #2 - Sittin' Sideways V9: A variation to to #4 established by Alex Manikowski in 2009. Start across #4, but in the same place that Subterranean drops down, use the good low edge with your RH to crossover with your LH a couple feet into another edge which spits you into #8 for the finish. This problem essentially eliminates all the high and good stuff in the middle of the traverse without dropping down to the low somewhat chossy flakes on Subterranean.

5. Jim Hall Left V0 ... FA: Unknown

There would be a lower start if the meddling boulder wasn't in the way, so just start on the jug rail and surf up and right a few moves to the top.

6. Jim Hall Right V0 ... FA: Unknown
Start at the cool red holds and zoom up and right to the top.

7. Battaglia's Backside V5 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007 *
Begin from a sds on a low RH crimp and LH sidepull and pull the bulge.
8. Battaglia's Bottom V7/8 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007 *
This one begins from a sds just a couple feet right of #7. Start LH on the flake crimp from #7 and RH on a sidepull flake a little to the right. Make a very long LH move to the lip and fight hard to stay engaged, reset your feet, go RH to a toothy crimp and topout up and slightly right. Another possibly higher percentage way to do this involves first matching on the flake, then doing a RH move to a small crimp to start. Try both and see if either way works for ya. This has become a popular little problem. Variation #1 - Illumination V10 sds: A Peter Beal variation done in 2008 that tacks a short traverse onto the front end and eliminates some holds on the back end. Begin on a smallish crimp down and left of the flake that has the starting holds for #7 and #8 . Get your LH up to a pinch near the lip, then slide right across the aforementioned flake into the start for #8. From there, go RH to the small obvious crimp, then bump your LH up pissy face holds until it arrives at the toothy crimp. The slopey pocket and the lip are off here. Topout up and slightly right. Probably more like V9 without the short introductory traverse.

THE PILLAR
9. The Pillar V2 ... FA: Unknown *
Start low on opposing holds and climb out the underbelly of this phallic pillar to its end, then pull up and over.
INCUTS OVERHANG
10a&b&c. Deep/Deeper/Deepest Cuts V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) / V5 sds (c) ... FA: Unknown *
STEEP and really fun with different starts to up the ante. Start standing on holds on/near the left arête OR using holds in the middle of the overhang (a), make a big move to a jug and then to another jug before a balancey rollover topout. For a more difficult challenge (b), begin from a sds on two obvious large holds just right of the arête and use both arête and face holds on your way to the top. To add a couple more even steeper moves (c), begin from a low sds on a good LH sidepull in a crack and a RH undercling jug all the way down at the very bottom of the arête.

11. Serenity Now V6/7 sds ... FA: Unknown *

Begin from a sds with #10b and climb to the top without the benefit of the arête for either hands OR feet. From the starting jugs, go to matching thin crimps, then to a complex RH grip before a big move to the first of the jugs that take you to the top. Cool sequence taking the arête out of play!!!

12. Valkyrie V5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *

Start utilizing holds associated with a very thin flake at chest height in the middle of the overhang. Pull on and go RH to a bad sloper on the right arête. Reset your feet, maybe switch your LH to a small crimp, then either jump for the high incut jug - fighting the twisting swing - or use a left heelhook to span the gap to the incut jug. Finally, slide right at the top to some of the finest topout holds on Flagstaff Mountain. See #13 for the full line.

13. Valhalla V7 sds ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008 *

Begin from the same sds with #11 and do the first three moves with #11 without the benefit of the arête, then crossover LH to the sharp finger rail and establish on the starting holds for #12. Hang on, now do #12.

SLOT OVERHANG
14. Orca Trainer V6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
Uphill from Incuts Overhang and just south of the Cryptic Wall is Slot Overhang. Begin from a low sds with your LH on the arête and your RH in a crimpy pocket under the overhang. Surf the lip via multiple heel hooks all the way to topout next to #15. Pants and long sleeves are most definitely recommended, as you will be hugging orca all the way up.
15. Slot Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Unknown *
Begin from a sds under the overhang on the large flake and climb straight out the overhang. Milk some slopers up top to reach for good finishing holds.

HOH OVERHANG

16. Hell of Holidays V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006

In the talus west of Slot Overhang, find this 45 degree overhang with beautiful lichen. Ascend the middle of the overhang from a high start just below where a confounding 1/4" expansion bolt protrudes from the rock. A couple high gravity moves on good rock will have you at the lip.
17. Gin & Juice V5 sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
A sds to #16 that adds 2 or 3 moves. Begin slightly lower than #16 on poor holds with a huge shelf for your feet, climb up into #16 via an inobvious sequence on more poor holds, then topout according to #16.
18. Hope Everything Holds V2/3 ... FA: Peter Jones, 2009
About 5 feet right of #15 and #16, find the angled and positive angled undercling a couple feet under the lip of the boulder. Start matched on the undercling with an obvious rail for your feet, make a move to the lip and topout.
19. High Life V? sds ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
Begin on holds that are 3 or 4 feet below the large angled undercling that is the starting hold for #18. Originally V8, there is a chossy sidepull here that has broken since the first ascent. Zig-zag your way out the steepness via several suspect holds that unfortunately continue to break and exfoliate choss. This problem's future is most definitely uncertain.

One-Arm Rocks Miniguide

2008-05-31T01:53:00.000-07:00

One-Arm Rocks is a curiosity. Read any printed guidebook covering these problems and most of the problems are described as "one-armed problems." WTF? The most extreme example of curious "problems" is a gymnastic move Rob Candelaria performed out a roof behind One-Arm Rocks in the late 1970's. Find it and try a reverse mantel (Pat Ament refers to this move as a front pull-over), where you begin sitting with your back to a flakey roof. Lean back and do a partial pull-up - lifting your ass off the ground - then throw your legs over your head onto the top of the boulder. I'm sure Rob and others did it with style, but to passersby that day I'm sure I looked like a fool just trying to repeat it. To me, the one-arm problems are silly endeavors, but decide for yourself. Most folks forego the circus tricks and one-armed problems for moderate TWO-ARMED pulling on nice roadside boulders. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. One-Arm Rocks are located 15 yards east of the Crown Rock Parking Area, 30 feet from the road. You can't miss them.

1a&b. Smith's Face V2 (a) / V4/5 (b) ... FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (one-armed)
Use both arms. Right next to the tree, ascend the left boulder’s north face. For V2, start on a left hand crimp over with the tree and any number of right hand holds (a). For V4/5, begin on opposing underclings (b), perch on a high feet and attempt to uncoil. A one-handed send of this rig from any starting holds would be interesting to watch, although Richard Smith was purportedly 6’7".

2. One-Arm Flake V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Use both arms. Start just below the incut sidepull flakey arête right of Smith’s Face and climb to the top using both arms. This is another confounding one-arm problem, although the ground has probably eroded a bit and it used to be possible to start on the incut flake.
3. License Plate V6 sds ... FA: Marcelo Montalva, 2006
Use both arms. This is a tricky and powerful sds to #2 that begins low with your LH on the sloping lip of the undercut and RH on an undercling sidepull under the little roof and about 18 inches off the ground. After 2-3 moves, you'll arrive at holds on #2, from which you can cruise to the top.
4a&b. One Arm Overhang VB (a) / V1 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed) *
For VB, ascend jugs on the bulging overhang up and right to the top using both arms (a). For a little more difficulty, a sds begins on thin crimps below (b). A one-arm ascent is fairly obvious ... from a stand start, thrutch up and right on jugs and rock over.
5. Right Hand Arête V3 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin awkwardly from a sds on the arête left of Right Hand Mantel and stay on the arête all the way to the top.
6. Right Hand Mantel V? ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Use one arm for this description. This is the classic of the one-arm problems, mostly because of the ridiculous and famous photos of Pat manteling out the topout using his right hand. Reach high to a small RH crimp, pull on and thrutch to an good incut on the left side of the high rail which you will need to mantel out. I have no idea how to grade one-arm problems, hence the question mark for the grade.

7a&b. Right Hand Face V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *

Use two arms. Start low with your LH on a good sidepull and RH in the slot (a) or begin awkwardly from a sds matched on the lowest obvious jug (b). From the LH sidepull and RH slot, make a long reach up and right to the starting crimp on #6 and head for the top. Most exit left at the top of the arête, but the best finish is straight up from the horizontal rail via a long reach to the very top of the block.

8. Right of Passage V4/5 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Use two arms. Begin from a sds on the far right with two LH fingers squeezed into a two-finger hole. Bump up to and establish your RH on the best part of the sloping rail, then reach way left to an undercling next to the slot on #7. Throw your right heel onto the sloping rail and do a huge crossover to the RH starting crimp for #6 before heading for the top. Again, the best finish is to head straight up from the high horizontal rail via a long reach. Tricky with really cool moves.

9. Rising Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown

Use two arms. On the other side of the right boulder, surf the lip to the top and pull over.

Lower Great Ridge Miniguide

2008-05-13T07:49:00.000-07:00

The central feature of the Lower Great Ridge is a 30-40' overhanging cliffband, much of which is unfortunately composed of rock of poor quality. The surrounding overhangs and boulders do, however, possess a number of moderate problems on better rock, most notably Big Overhang, which should be on any boulderer's short list of the best V2s in Colorado. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of the road opposite the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and you will walk right up to the middle of the south face of the Pebble Wall. Turn left, head up the stairs and turn left again when you get to the top of the stairs. Ten yards later, when you round a corner, a social trail will head directly uphill along the cliffband. All but a couple of the problems in this miniguide are located a short jaunt up this hill. Problems #1 & 2 are located on a small formation 30 yards southwest of the cliffband.

TRIANGLES OVERHANG

1. Triangle Love V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
This formation is located about 30 yards west of the Lower Great Ridge proper and still has a bit of lichen up high on both problems. Begin from a sds under the right side of the overhang, and climb straight out the right side of the overhang to the top.

2. Love Triangle V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From the same sds as #1, slide left after the first move and climb out the left side of the overhang until you can join the finish with #1.

PROJECT WALL

3. Project

I sure wanted to do this beautiful line before I published this information ... oh well. Located at the lower terminus of the Lower Great Ridge, a lot of Flagstaff aficionados have looked at this line and wondered. To put it bluntly, the rock quality on this wall is quite poor. There is some better quality rock underneath the choss and a bit of aggressive cleaning on toprope might yield an impressive highball problem with sketchy but climbable rock. Initially, cleaning this on toprope is the only way to go on this one. The landing is poor and the last time I tried to climb this on TR, 15+ "holds" broke off or exploded in my hands.

OVERHANG WALL

4a&b. Southwest Face VB ... FA: Unknown

At the lower end of the main wall, choose a path up the first 15 to 20 feet (a or b), then find your way up really poor quality rock to the high seam and and better rock that leads to the top. The rock quality is poor until the end and falling would be a very bad idea from way up there. You've been warned.

5. Short Crack V1 ... FA: Unknown

The short crack that isn't. On the left side of an overhanging bulge, bust out the overhang (crux) near a seam to a stance then continue out the high easy dihedral to the top. I suppose the topout is really optional. Don't fall from up there.

6. Cove Crack V2 ... FA: Unknown

Start low in the short pin-scarred overhanging crack at the upper end of the main wall and pull the bulge up to a stance, where you can walk off to the left. A low-quality problem for several reasons. If someone sacks up and continues out the overhanging face above, well ... then we will have something.

FRAGGLE ROCKS

7. Right Boulder V0 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds on the far right of the right boulder, surmount the right boulder's overhang in the center.

8. Boulders Traverse V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown

From the same sds as #7 on the far left, surf the lip of the boulders to a topout on the far left.

9. Low Splitter V2 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds under the boulders at their juncture. Painfully jam your hands in there just right and bust out the overhang.

10. Left Boulder VB ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the far left of the left boulder, surf right a move or two and surmount the short overhang.

BIG OVERHANG
11. The Horn V1/2 ... FA: Unknown

Scramble up onto a ledge on the right and reach high out over space for the horn (reach-dependent) and ascend good holds up and over to the top finishing with #13.

12. Barbarosa V8? ... FA: Ian Irving, 2001/2

A dyno problem that I've been told is more difficult than Flagstaff Mountain's infamous dyno problem Double Clutch. Start on good holds at the bottom of the overhang including a good flake for the RH and dyno 6+ feet up and right to the horn (the starting hold for #11). Finish with #11.

13. Big Overhang V2 ... FA: Unknown *

I'm disappointed we don't know who put this ultra-classic up, since it is among the best problems on the mountain and in contention for the best V2s in Colorado with the likes of Right el Skyland in Crested Butte and The Bog's Indian Ladder in Poudre Canyon. Climb out the well-chalked flakes and incuts to the lip, get a high right foot and make a reach up and right to another jug and pull over.

14. Big Overhang Direct V3 ... FA: Unknown *
Start up the overhang with #13, but pull directly out the lip without the benefit of the good right foot or the final jug out right over the lip. Maybe try this finishing variation for style points after doing the ultra-classic #13.

15. Big Overhang Indirect V3/4 ... FA: Unknown

Start up the overhang with #13 & 14, but slide left across the last rail on the face until you can make a reach up and left, finishing near or on the arête with #16.

16. The Spike V0 ... FA: Unknown

Start up the left side of the wall, arriving at a spike of rock half-way up. Use some features around the corner to stand on top of the spike continue up and over.

BALANCE OVERHANG

17. Balance Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown

Start on the shelf, perch up on the shelf and reach up and right out the overhang to the lip and pull over.

18. Balance Overhang Direct V? ... FA: Unknown

Start the same as #17, but use three smallish edges/pockets on the face to move up and left to the top and finish. The slabby boulder below makes a fall from the topout potentially dangerous, so place your pads and spotters strategically.

19. Unknown V? ... FA: Unknown

Again, start the same as #17 and #18, but traverse left (staying low) avoiding the slab behind you. A longish move to reach the arête and you're on your way to the top. Have your cat-like skills at the ready if you blow the easier topout above the slab. I'm pretty sure this one was established recently ... if you know who did it, have them contact me or leave me a message about it so I can pimp them for info.
20. Tiny's Low Down Nasty V2 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2005
Begin from a sds matched on a large flake on the downhill side of this west-facing squatty boulder and traverse left and slightly uphill, making use of several obvious pockets and edges along the lip. At the uphill end of the boulder, press out a mantle on jugs.

Pumpkin Rock Miniguide

2008-04-29T02:01:00.000-07:00

Pumpkin Rock is one of Flagstaff Mountains' largest boulders located in arguably one of its nicest settings. Although there are not a ton of established problems, potential remains for a couple more bold lines. Enjoy the colors and the view. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking lot and Pumpkin Rock will be the first large formation uphill on the right. Do not cut uphill to Pumpkin Rock here (on social trails or blazing your own) in spite of evidence that others have. Stay on the main trail for about 100 more yards, passing the next boulder (Panorama Rock) on your right. After the next short switchback, you will find yourself with a nice view to the east, obstructed only by the immense west side of Pumpkin Rock.

1. Northeast Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown *

Around the corner to the left from #s 2-3, begin from a sds down low in the crack and climb the crack and face up onto the ramp.

2. Northwest Pin Scars V5/6ish / V5/6 X ... FA: Unknown

Start with #3, but after a couple moves veer directly left into the pin scars which arch left then up. At the arching seam about 17 feet up, either slide right and downclimb/jump to your pads OR slide left and continue up the line of least resistance with the last serious move at about 35 feet. The anchors up top allow you to easily rehearse the topout sequence before committing to the insecure V2ish sequence just before the top.

3. Northwest Face V1 (a) / V2 (b) / V2/3 X (topout) ... FA: Unknown *

On the northwest face, follow a series of holds as they diagonal up and right to a well-chalked rail 12 feet up (a) or start directly below the well-chalked rail and climb straight up to it via a long swing (b). From the rail, reach straight up and match a sloping shelf under the arching seam, then slide left to another set of good holds. Now, either reverse your moves back to the safety of the pads, or slide left a couple feet and head straight out the committing and sequential V2ish finish that's not over until you pull over the lip at 35+ feet.

4. West Face Left V3 X ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968 *

Begin on a ledge where the remnants of a red spray-painted peace symbol persist. Start up the beautiful tufa-like fin and veer left to a committing, but relatively easy, topout on incut edges and jugs. Regardless how many pads you have, it will be difficult to protect against injury if you fall anywhere near the top on this one.

5. The Yellow Hammer V6 ... FA: Lee Payne, 2006 *

Start up the fin on #4, but stay the course heading straight for the top above a landing that essentially requires that you do not fall.

6. West Face Right V2/3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968 *

Four feet right of #4, find a good starting edge near another unidentifiable red spray-painted symbol. From there, ascend the face straight to the top, with a number of pulls on nice crimps. This one is easier to protect than the last one, but you need a few pads to get it right and you cannot fall wildly or unexpectedly near the top without expecting to get hurt.

7. The Velvet Cushion V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007

Begin from a sds on decent holds (one is a pocket) directly below the start for #6 and climb up into it.

8. Pumpkin Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown

Reach edges from atop a step and do a couple of moves on good holds to surmount this short bulge up onto the ledge.

9. Pumpkin Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the funky overhanging dihedral to the top using mostly good holds once you get started.
10. Pumpkin Roof V2 ... FA: Unknown *

From a sds using a deep sideways pocket down under the roof, climb out the steep west-facing overhang just left of the ramp leading to #11 and topout.

11. Top Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown

This is up on the second tier of Pumpkin Rock above the cave. Start low and pull out the south-facing overhanging notch onto the top slab. Be careful up there.

12. Smashing Pumpkins V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2003

Start on the left side of the arête just left of #13, almost in the shallow cave. Head up and left on occasionally dubious rock that will bring you to an obvious stopping point on a rail. I always wanted to pull the roof out of the cave, but never spent enough time sorting that out and the 45 degree angle slab below always scared the crap out of me. Have at it!!!

13. Funky Undercling V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000 *

A few feet left of #14 with the cave just to your left, ascend funky holds up to the topout ledge. The key for me was using a very cool slopey LH undercling to reach high and right for an edge and the top, but find your own sequence that works. In any event, this is a NICE problem.
14. South Face Pockets V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Five feet left of the short arête, climb this nice face where 3 small fingertip pockets precede a topout on a ledge.
15. Southeast Corner V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the east side of the southeast arête, do 4 or 5 thrutchy moves up onto the low-angled ramp. Much harder than - but just as crappy as - it looks.

Rear End Rock & Dead Elephant Miniguide

2008-04-25T01:24:00.001-07:00

This area can be described as a small cluster of abrasive blobs located a hard stone's throw to the southwest from Cloudshadow Wall. Two of these blobs are worth clambering around upon and - when viewed from the south - one bears a remarkable resemblance to a well-rounded posterior while the other resembles a dead elephant. Rear End Rock is smaller and possesses a few problems, one of which is not to be missed. Dead Elephant is well featured, larger and lower-angled boulder, yielding a number of more moderate lines. Both are worth visiting someday when you have a beginner with you, when the scene at Cloudshadow is more than you can bear or when you want to play on something different. FWIW, I named all the problems on the Dead Elephant, although I was probably only first for the stupid sit-starts I did. Where: The best way to approach these boulders - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down the steps for 15 yards toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As the Cloud Shadow Wall comes into view, turn back to your right and walk 25 yards west-southwest to a small boulder nestled in the pines ... this is Rear End Rock. The stuff worth climbing faces south, but there is one easy line on the west side. Dead Elephant is the next boulder downhill next to the East Flagstaff Trail. Worthwhile problems can be found on the south and west sides right off the trail.

REAR END ROCK

1. West Wall VB ... FA: Unknown
A vertical warm-up problem before venturing around the corner to the skin-shredding bulge problems on the south side.
2. Hip Check V5/6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Begin from a sds on opposing edges very low on the corner below the shelf. Establish on small sharp features that look chossy (but aren't), work your feet and make a blind RH slap into a shallow dish up and right on the slab. Work your feet again up onto the shelf, get a LH undercling, pull onto the slab using miniscule features and dance to the top. It's not over until you're laughing about it at the top.
3. Left Bulge V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967 *
Although this problem has a funky start and is relatively short in stature, is still pretty good. Climb the bulge staying left of the seam. The trick is where to start. The lower you move your hands to start, the harder it gets (see problems #4-6). The old school V4 start, described here, utilized a cheatstone to access holds at the lip. Get there today by stacking pads or Gill-starting off a good RH crimp up to a decent LH gaston at the lip. Once there, match, smack up and left to a LH sloper where judicious use of your feet will allow you to reach for higher crimps and the top.
4. Salad Toss V7 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2009
In an effort to link the sds for #2 into #3, this problem was done, although the full link-up has yet to be completed. Begin left of #3 using stacked pads or a cheatstone with your LH on a sloper at the lip right of the arete and your RH on a pebbly undercling. From there, make a big toss out right to the starting hold for #3 and finish. I imagine the sds linking #2 into #3 will be done fairly soon.
5. Left Bulge Direct V6 ... FA: Christian Griffith and Harrison Dekker, early/mid 1980's *
Probably the best of the bunch. Start LH on the obvious huge slopey undercling and RH on the horizontal crimp. Now do a quick dynamic move to the hold at the lip, fighting to stay engaged and finish #3. See #6 for an even lower start.

6. Tongue in Cheek V9 ... FA: Marcelo Montalva, 2006 *

The lowest start to #3. The obvious thing to do for this problem is to begin matched on the slopey undercling and pull on really hard, going RH quickly to the crimp if you can and then doing #5. An inobvious way around this is begin LH on the slopey undercling and RH on a LOW crimpy undercling way down on the face that requires that you use entirely different feet. It is still very tricky to get your feet on and powerful to go get the RH crimp, but when the hopelessness of starting matched on the sloped undercling of doom hits you ... check it out as an alternative.
7. Rear-End Rock Jam V3/4 ... FA: Pat Ament, mid 1960's
Start in the crack under the small overhang. Reach up into the sharp, awkward and flaring seam and painfully head for the top. Consider taping up or skipping it.
8a&b. Gluteus V6/7 (a) / Gluteus Maximus V7 sds (b) ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006 / Sit-Start: Chip Phillips, 2006 *
Ascend the bulge using features right of the seam only. For the stand-up version (a), begin under the overhang on opposing high sidepulls at arms length and have your full bag of tricks ready. The first move is an unreal RF toe-hook and layback maneuver to a RH sloper that will blow you away. From there, use awkward crimps and pimp the tiniest of pebbles, staying right of the seam to the top. If you are bored, add a contrived sds on crimps (b) that off-routes the huge feet out right. The 2 or 3 moves don't add that much difficulty, but I found that my precision suffered on the tenuous moves higher up, so I added a half-grade.
9a&b. Project
Start under the overhang on the right side and pull straight out the right side of the bulge onto the slab. Weird, tricky and hard. If you can do that, add the contrived sds shared with #8b for full value.

THE DEAD ELEPHANT

10. Tail V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the west side of the blob - about where one would expect to find the elephant's tail - start on abrasive edges and battle through a thin section for the feet before it eases up at the top.

11. Elephantitis VB ... FA: Unknown

On the southwest side, start on high edges, make a long pull into the remnants of a well-featured and large solution pocket and continue up and over.

12. Hind Quarter V0 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start high on matching edges (a) or add the sds (b) which begins down and slightly left on a small RH edge and LH sloper. Get into the highest jugs, then make a long pull up the slab to the left to a pocket-like feature in a seam and top it out.

13. Mortal Wounds V2/3 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds on 2 obvious matched edges. Bump to better holds without dabbing, reengage the feet and reach for better holds. All that's left is pulling a bulge onto a slab that leads to the top. Starting on any other holds makes this VB.

14. White Hunter VB ... FA: Unknown *

Start below the remnants of another high solution pocket. Climb straight up to it and pull up and over.

15. Tusk V0 ... FA: Unknown *

The best line on the boulder. Just left of the rounded southeast corner, start via incut crimps and pull up to attain a stance. Now dance your way up the vertical bulge to the top. Could be a nice tall line for beginners, but not if they blow the topout.

Central Great Ridge Miniguide

2008-03-16T06:02:00.000-07:00

The Central portion of the Great Ridge is comprised primarily of the Upper Y Wall and Three of a Kind Wall. A lot of folks think of these walls as traversing locales (and the traverses are pretty damn good), but in my opinion this is one of the best and most concentrated zones on Flagstaff Mountain for good up-problems in the V0 to V6 range, many of which are gloriously-good highballs. There's not much for the resident hardman who solely chases numbers, but those of us who have spent afternoon/evening training sessions in the Spring and Fall on Flag with friends, beer and headlamps know exactly what I'm talking about ... getting your tips ready for that next roadtrip and/or enjoying some time after work/school with your buddies pulling down on fun (and committing) up-problems just a few minutes from home. Where: While you can certainly approach this zone by hiking up from the Crown Rock Parking Area, the shortest approach is to park in the pullout at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain). Your car will be facing First Overhang. Walk towards it, but turn right and head directly downhill. The large west-facing Upper Y Wall will come into view in 1-2 minutes. If you continue downhill to the right (south), the west-facing Halloween Spire and Three of a Kind Wall will come into view after 30 additional seconds on the trail. Enjoy what is surely one of my favorite zones on the mountain.

UPPER Y WALL

1. Far Left Seam VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left end, ascend the short flaring crack between the right-leaning pillar and the main wall.

2. Left Arête V1 ... FA: Unknown *

Begin on the rounded arête on the left side of the wall and surf laybacks and edges on the arête to a high finish on positive slopers.

3. Left Side V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Almost at the left end of the wall, dynamically bust out the bulge on good edges and jugs, joining the arête and #2 for the high finish on slopers.

4. Center Left V3 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Begin below the small fir tree growing out of the wall 12 feet up and - with the left talus boulder directly behind you - climb a thin and frustrating section on small holds to establish on the face left of the tree. Continue up and slightly left on face holds, committing to the finish with #2 and #3 at the top.

5. Center Right V1 ... FA: Bob Culp, early 1960’s *
Start below the huge embedded cobble and fir tree growing 12 feet up. With the right talus boulder behind you, do a big move to an incut edge. Continue up to the ledge staying right of the tree.
6. Vision Quest V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008 *

Just right of #5 is an obvious line that required extensive cleaning of friable edges to make it climbable. What remains is proud and fun, although the large meddling talus boulder in the landing area below certainly takes away from the problem. The best holds are down low and the dynamic crux to a decent hold comes quick. After that, a series of thin edges take you on a beeline to the top. Due to the talus boulder below, which presumbly explains why this line has been ignored, it is virtually impossible to fully guard against injury if you fall, so don't fall.

7. Merge Left V5/6 ... FA: Unknown *

Find the thin seam that starts 10 feet up. Down and left of this is an obvious incut. Start matched there and reach/swing/dyno up and right to the sloping shelf just right of the seam. Once you've matched the shelf, another long reach and/or mantel is waiting for you as you pull up top.

8. Merge Right V4 ... FA: Unknown *
Start on good holds next to #9, but get the last incut edge on the ovarhang with your RH and swing hard up and left to the sloping shelf just right of the thin seam that starts 10 feet up. Once you match the shelf, a long reach and/or mantel will allow you to attain the top.
9. Y-Left V1 ... FA: Unknown *
Start next to #8, but climb straight up, pulling over onto the ramp on good edges near the top of the left arm of the “Y.” A proud and committing finish is possible out the high bulge, but I have no idea how hard it is. If you try it, do not fall or break any o fthe suspect-looking flakes.

10. Y-Crack Left V1 ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the base of “Y Crack” and surf the left arm of the Y up and left. When you reach the finish for #9, pull over there.
11. Splitting the Y V2 ... FA: Unknown *

Begin at the base of “Y Crack." Stand up in the dihedral via a RH layback to split the Y and climb straight up and over three bulges for a total 30+ feet of climbing to the top. This one is really good highball fun, with a momentary pause at the last bulge which makes you wonder a little.

12. Y-Crack Right V1 ... FA: Unknown *

Begin at the base of “Y Crack" and surf edges on the right arm of the Y. Join #13 on your way to top out with #14.

13. Y-Right Two V1 ... FA: Unknown *

Just right of the obvious “Y Crack” and left of #14 climb up and slightly right on juggy incut flakes. When you reach the right-arching arm of the Y, it gets a little thin before a long reach to top out with #14.

14. Y-Right V0 ... FA: Unknown *
No doubt about it, one of the top 3 V0s in Colorado. Climb the awesome line of incuts that take you 20 feet off the deck to a slopey topout ledge near the top of the right arm of the “Y.” Spectacular V0 fun.
15. Right Side Overhang X-Over V2 ... FA: Unknown *
Start 3 feet right of #14 and ascend numerous incuts and edges up to a long RH pull to a LH pinch/crimp. Twist up and right off this pinch/crimp to grab the top. For a dose of adventure/stupidity that I do not recommend, it is possible to head slightly left out the high overhang on loose flakes. Again, this alternative topout is not recommended.

16a&b. Right Side Overhang Reach V1 / V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin on holds in the mini-dihedral at head height (a) or from an obvious sds below (b) that doesn't add much difficulty (b). Do a couple moves up good edges to a long reach to finish with #15. For a dose of adventure/stupidity that I do not recommend, it is possible to head slightly left out the high overhang on loose flakes. Again, because the rock quality is terrible, so this alternative topout is not recommended.

17a&b. Direct Mantel V2/3 / V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Left of Pinch Bulge is an obvious sloping shelf. Start matched on the sloping shelf (a) and pull out the bulge, with a majority of folks skipping the mantel altogether and opting to use a good crimper or two just above the shelf to attain the top. A true 2-handed mantel on this shelf is substantially harder, probably V5 or harder depending on your manteling skillset. For full value on the sds below (b), go directly from the the sds holds to the mantel shelf (although the grade for this move is presumably reach-dependent) and continue to the top. Variation #1 - Upper Y Double Dyno V5/6: From the same sds, get both feet on and double dyno to the sloping ledge and continue to the top. A double dyno followed by a 2-handed mantel would be an excellent show of style.

18a&b. Pinch Bulge V3 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *

Start standing, matched on the incut flakey edge (a), or from a sds shared with #s 16b, 17b and 19 below (b) and swing up the the flakey edge. Match, then reach LH up and pinch the next slopey corner with your LH and move to the top using any of a vast variety of sequences to reach the top essentially following the vertical seam/crack to the ledge. Very popular.

19. Tall Man Shutdown V7 sds ... FA: Unknown
A difficult problem to describe and a good contrivance at best, but here goes ... From the same sds as #s 16b, 17b and 18b, swing up to the incut flakey edge. Once you've matched the flakey edge, only handholds right of the vertical seam are on, so crossover with your LH to a thin almost imperceptible edge on the highest sloping corner just right of the seam. FWIW, I get it as a pinch. From here, go up and right for the top using bad edges and slopers on the right face. It may be easier to be shown this problem, so ask around. Really cool moves, particularly when you have to uncoil from the crossover.

20a&b. Thin Crimp Bulge V4 (a) / V6 (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start on two small but decent layaways a couple feet right of the incut flakey edge. Move up to very thin but good crimpers just left of a tempting shelf. For V4 (a), get your right foot up on a good edge/horn and blast for the top without the benefit of the high shelf out right. For V6 (b), off-route both the high shelf and the good foot edge/horn that is so useful for the V4 version.

21. The Far Right is All Wrong V8 sds ... FA: Sacha Halenda, 1998

Begin from a sds just right of the sit-start holds for #16b, 17b, 18b and 19 and down below the start holds for #20a&b, and go up to the two decent layaways that represent the start holds for #20. Now finish up #20b, off-routing the high right shelf and the good foot edge/horn. I know ... contrived, but the rock is pretty good here making it worthy of inclusion.

22. Upper Y Traverse V3/4 (a) / V5/6 (b) ... FA: Unknown *

This traverse is presumably second only to the Monkey Traverse in popularity. Traverse the west face of the Upper Y Wall from the very far right to the very far left, finishing up one of the VFUN lines on the far left (#1-3). I like to finish up #2, but pick your own poison and hang on 'til the end. For the easier version (a), everything is on for the first 30 feet or so. For the harder version, stay on the lower edges and slopers until you join the higher and easier line in the shallow dihedral in the middle of the wall. Doing this back and forth adds pump and depending on your choice of holds and how and where you choose to finish probably adds 1 to 3 V grades.

23. The Fin VB sds ... FA: Unknown

This problem has been unknowingly seen by thousands of folks looking for a quick place to pee. If you are still interested, look in the alcove around to the right from the main Upper Y Wall. Begin from a sds on the horizontal fin and pull up and over this short beginner problem.

HALLOWEEN SPIRE AREA

24. Project V?

A direct start to #25 that is obvious but presumably passed on due to the horrific landing and the couple of hard moves required to climb into #25.

25. Happy Halloween V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002 *
Start on the right side of the tall black, orange and yellow spire and make a long reach left into the seam. From there, boldly climb to the top above a positively horrific landing area. Add a direct start (#24) for a presumed first ascent.

26. Warm-Up Traverse V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the left side of the fir tree, about 20 yards left of Little Sloper Boy, traverse left across juggy holds. Back and forth is even more fun.

THREE OF A KIND WALL

27a&b. Little Sloper Boy V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

From good holds a few feet left of The Face, move up to the good edge 10 feet up, then trend slightly left up the face to the top. An awkward sds (b) begins on thin crimps below and adds a bit of difficulty.

28. Sloper Boy –> Face Link-Up V1 ... FA: Unknown *

Start up Little Sloper Boy. From the incut edge 10 feet up, slide right 5 feet to the big pocket on #29 and top that out. Impure wandering on moderate and fun terrain.

29a&b. The Face V3 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *

The stand (a) is a classic straight-up face problem that starts with your RH gastoning on the edge reattached with gobs of epoxy in the late 1990's. After the first 3 or 4 moves, the problem eases up substantially for fun pulling to a toput at about 22 feet. For the sds (b), begin from a sds matched on the remains of an obvious jug that broke in March 2010 and bust hard right to the epoxied edge before continuing to the top. This problem is constantly chalked and its popularity, for good reason, is no secret.

30a&b. The Rib V4 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown *

Begin via either start on #29. From the horizontal edge about 10 feet up, zoom up and right below the obvious vertical rib, continuing to the top laying back the rib with your left hand. Two crimps right of the prow higher up, one sporting a tooth, precede the highball and exhilarating finish.
31. The Rash V6/7 ... FA: Greg Jones, late 1990’s *
Start LH on the epoxied hold at the base of #29. Move up into a LH gaston undercling, then to a RH edge/sloper before pulling the bulge up and slightly left. This goes without using the very tempting vertical rib up high that is so useful and reassuring on #30 by pimping small crimps and edges on the slabby face, but to say the rib is "off" takes away from the problem and the climber risks a serious rash AND MORE if something blows up there. Be safe!

32a&b. The Chisel Route V6/7 (a) / The Jizzler V7 (b) ... FA: Christian Griffith,1980’s & Colin Lantz, late 1990's

For The Chisel Route (a), start LH on the epoxied hold at the base of #29 and RH on a thin crimp. Move up into a LH gaston undercling, then up to a couple of edges/slopers before a long RH move up and right to a hidden sloper and the highball finish up the face next to/in the seam. The Jizzler (b) off-routes the epoxied hold at the start. Get into the gaston from a truly crappy set of crimps and ascend #32a. The grades on these may be a bit sandbagged as holds have broken, weathered and crumbled over the last 10 years. Bring a whole slew of pads.
33. Kaptain Face V5 ... FA: Neal Kaptain, 1985 *

Begin matched on a funky sidepull/undercling at the bottom of a small left-facing dihedral and battle up to the good edge 10 feet up. From the edge, climb straight out the high bulge using hard-to-see sloping edges and an obvious high tooth to the top. If you must ask, the round pebble out right that is the namesake of the next problem is off.

34a&b. Round Pebble AKA The Culp Route V4 (a) / V3 (b) ... FA: Bob Culp, early 1960's *

There are 3 starts for this one, the first two of which are described here (see the next problem for the third). For V4 (a), begin as for #33 matched on the sidepull/undercling and battle (crux) up to the good edge 10 feet up. For V3 (b), start on opposing sidepulls and do dynamic move up to the good edge. Now, reach right to the round pebble, then to a layaway in the bottom of the slot. Once you can stand up and layback the slot with your RH and get a good pebble on the face up high with your LH, it is pretty much over. Bring lots of pads if in doubt.

35. Breashears' Round Pebble V6/7 ... FA: David Breashears, mid 1970’s

A harder variation to #34 that avoids the good LH starting holds as well as the good edge out left 10 feet up, ascending the very thin right seam and miniscule edges on the face straight up to the round pebble and then to the top.

36. The Red Streak V5/6 ... FA: Skip Guerin, late 1980’s/early 1990’s *

Below the obvious red streak, just right of #35, get established on jugs with smallish feet, go RH to the first thin crimp up on the face, high-step, then go big with your LH to the next edge. From there, climb straight to the top up small edges and slopers. The angle eases up a little up there, so don't letthe small holds scare you away. The lip on LH edge broke off in 2005 making this one a tad harder, but it still goes and it is still glorious.

37. Colin’s Thing V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1993/4 *

A variation to #36, but a really good one worthy of a separate entry. After establishing on the starting jugs and small feet, crossover with your LH to the first thin crimp, get your feet up and go RH to a tempermental sloper up and right that you need to get almost perfectly. Make a hard reach up and left to rejoin #36 and head for the top on smaller holds with easier moves.

38. High Flake AKA Crystal Delight V3 ... FA: Unknown *

From low and obvious starting holds below the finish for #44, move straight up to the flake system probably via a dynamic move. From the top of the flake system, regroup, then reach up and right for a knobby crystal, step right and carefully dance to the top. Really fun highballin'.

39. Slippery Slope V3/4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000 *

Where #44 starts to rise up the juggy flake system, pull on good holds and do a dynamic move up to a sloping edge on the bulge above. Match the sloping edge and discover a very subtle sloping lip. Now do a sketchy mantel or perch move up onto the sloping lip, before continuing up the face to the top. There is a half-moon crimp and a pebble up there to assist with the finish. Be aware that although I've never taken a bad fall on this one, it could have happened every time if my foot blew once I committed to the move up onto the lip. It is insecure up there and at least a couple pads and/or spotters are highly recommended.

40. Center Line V1/2 ... FA: Unknown

About 15 feet left of #42, start next to a thin vertical seam lacking obvious holds. Climb past 2 small embedded pebbles on your way to the top.

41. Ledge System VB ... FA: Unknown
About 8 feet left of #42, climb good edges and slopers to the top.

42. The Groove VB ... FA: Pat Ament, mid-1970’s (one-armed)
Climb the obvious wide slot to the top. Doing it with one-arm is optional - ha!

43. Bulging Slab V0 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the slab between the start of #42 and the end ofthe wall to the top.

44. Three of a Kind Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown *

Surely the best traverse for the grade on the mountain. Traverse right to left from the far right (south) end of the wall to the well-chalked flake system that ends about 12 feet up in the middle of the wall. Continue to the top with #38 for style points.

Tutorial Rock Miniguide

2008-03-16T01:13:00.000-07:00

Although only 40 yards from the car, no evidence of prior climber traffic was visible when I started fooling around on this block in 1999. Despite it's proximity to the road, it remains seldomly visited and a nice place for a lightning quick session. It is also a fine place to bring beginner and/or novice climbers to introduce them to the concept of bouldering (hence the name) without the scene that you might find at some of the other spots on the mountain that some apparently believe are appropriate for true beginners. The up-problems are short and safe, the landings are relatively soft (not necessarily requiring a pad) and there are a number of easier 1 to 3-move up problems that some of my beginner/novice climbing friends have played on and seemingly enjoyed at various times over the past 8 years. There are also a few traverses that share the first 10 moves or so, but differ in where they finish. Essentially, the farther left you travel, the harder they get. Check 'em out. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.7 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park in the dirt lot on the right side of Flagstaff Road about 75 yards past the Crown Rock Parking Area (which is on the left). An access trail, constructed circa ~2002 or 2003, cuts across the hillside from the parking lot past Tutorial Rock on its way to joining the East Flagstaff Trail. More folks have played on these problems since this access trail was constructed, but this remains a chill place to come and do a few warmups or harder traverses. Stop there for a few minutes of fun.

1. Class Dismissed VB sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Begin on the far left from a sds and ascend jugs up the somewhat sharp, short and easy face. A nice bonsai pine tree used to reside just ight of the topout, but some numbskull decided to end the tree's life.

2. Teacher's Pet V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Begin from a sds on obvious opposing holds just a couple feet right of #1 and bust left to finish left of the bonsai with #1. Harder than it looks.

3. Dunce Cap V2/3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Begin from a sds on obvious opposing holds with #2 and climb straight to the top.

4. Lesson’s Over V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Start left of the crack matched on a brick. From slopers, make a big LH move to a sharp sloper, then pull again to the lip and over. The incut corner hold up and left from the start is off.

5. Layback Lesson V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Start right of the crack from a sds. Move into the good layaways and layback to the top and pull over. Everything left of the seam is off.
6. Heel Hook Lesson V2/3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999

Start matched on the left side of the low sloping rail. Now, get your right heel up on the far end of the rail and bump your way up crimper rails until you can turn that heel into a toe and pull over the top.
7. Lunge Lesson V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999 *
Where a huge rail used to be, start matched on an edge next to a broken embedded pebble. With grim feet, make a big move up and left to a sloper on the lip. Fight to stay engaged and pull over.
8. Rockover Lesson V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Start on two protruding cobbles just over the lip, throw a high heel and roll over the top.
9. Tutorial Traverse V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000 *
Traverse left to the top of #5 from a start on the very far right. After a couple moves, you are surfing the lip across suprisingly varied grips. Surf the lip all the way for a pumpy and sequential bit of fun.

10. Graduation Traverse V6 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Traverse left to the top of #5 from a start on the very far right. Surf the lip like #9, but drop down to the rail after the 2 protruding cobbles and continue left until you can finish up #5. A huge somewhat loose rail used to reside across this lower finish, but it broke or was pried off sometime in 2002 making it a grade or 2 harder.

11. Extra Credit Traverse V8 ... FA: Steve Hong or Stevie Damboise, mid 2000's

Traverse left across the entire formation topping out with #1 and #2. Get started by surfing the lip with #9 and #10, then drop down to the rail with #10. When you reach the seam, continue left (staying low) until you can top out with #1 and #2. Pumpy and and technical with several hard moves on unpleasantly sharp holds thrown in for fun at the end.