Corwin Simmons Rock Miniguide

Just down the road from Capstan Rock, Corwin Simmons Rock has 60 years of history, yet it is largely forgotten for good reasons. For example, there's poor rock quality where the best line would be and it is largely slabtastic and/or inundated with lichen elsewhere. One line is clean and really worth doing, but it's only V1 and there's no good way to get down off the top, so you'll probably end up downclimbing and jumping like I did. There is one presumably undone line that looks doable and good, but it's ~30 feet tall, the rock quality is suspect AT BEST and the landing is questionable. Where: Again, the easiest of directions. Corwin Simmons Rock has its own little pullout/parking area. Head up Flagstaff Road and park at the large formation on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at the bend in the road just before Capstan Rock. For your reference, the parking area for Corwin Simmons Rock is about 60 yards before the parking area for Capstan Rock, Cloud Shadow Wall, the Notlim Boulder, etc. Good luck with this one!

More to come.

Capstan Rock Miniguide

Capstan Rock is Flagstaff Mountain's most obvious bouldering spot, as it sits in the middle of a hairpin turn in clear view from the road on both sides. Among the problems found here are a number of fine highballs and one of Jim Holloway's best boulder problems (and one of the standards for V7), Just Right. Drivers heading up and down the mountain have been slowing down here and gawking at boulderers for decades. The last photo is of a boulder I've christened the Hairpin Boulder, for lack of any other name. It lies a little closer to the hairpin turn than Capstan Rock and has a couple moderate challenges. Where: These are the easiest of directions. Head up Flagstaff Road and park at the tall free-standing monolith on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge. The parking here can get crowded on perfect afternoons/evenings, so park respectfully, leaving room so others can squeeze in. Lots of other areas including Rear-End Rock, The Pedestal, Cloud Shadow Wall, The Alcove, The Dark Side, Nook's Rock, Road Sign Rock, Brown Glass Wall, Notlim Boulder and The Unmentionables are ALL accessed from this parking.

CAPSTAN ROCK

1. The Trough V4/5 ... FA: Dave Rearick, 1961

From a LH sidepull edge and RH pinch, pull on and go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, reset and throw RH for the jug at the bottom of the trough. Finish by pulling up into an undercling cobble at a comfortable stance. The Benningfield guide calls this V0, so maybe the edges were even bigger in the distant past. NOTE: To downclimb any of #s 1-8 and 10-12, head down to the undercling cobble at the top of #1 and either jump to the pads or make a couple of sketchy steps right down onto the boulder leaning up against the east face of Capstan Rock. Another option, although very few do this, is to pull the bulge at the top of the seam and climb to the very top of the boulder.

2. Daydreamer V9 ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1

Formerly V8, the edges at the lip continue to disintegrate. From the same start as #1, go LH to the disintegrating edges at the lip, match and slide left into the topout for Just Right.

3. The Trough Direct V8/9 sds ... FA: presumably Xander Oxman, 2000/1

Begin from a LOW sds, RH on the large cobble and LH in a small mono. Work your way through a perplexing, painful and powerful sequence until you can finish up #1.

4. Daydreamer Direct V? sds ... FA: Xander Oxman, 2000/1
This used to be considered V10 before some of the edges began to disintegrate. From the same sds as #3, do the perplexing, painful and powerful sequence to the broken edges at the lip, match, then finish with #2.

5. Just Wrong V9 ... FA: Chris Hill, early 1990’s
Begin with the same starting holds as #6a, but your first move is a LH crossover into the large pocket. Finish with #6.

6a&b. Just Right V7 (a) / V9/10? (b) ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1973
Climb the obvious line up the right side of the South Face. The standard start (a) involves a cheatstone or stacked pads. Get the best part of two opposing crimps, get your feet on, bump your LH up to a funky grip, reset your feet and go big with your RH to the large sloping pocket. From there, several exit sequences exist, but the idea is to pull the bulge up top any way you can. For the harder start (b), begin without a cheatstone and reach high into the opposing edges slightly below the true start for #6a. Being tall will help and may make this easier, hence the slash grade. Shorter folks will have to at least stack pads until they can reach the lower start, as it is only a few inches lower than the cheaterstone start.
7. Direct Just Right V? sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1990 (sds)
Formerly V9, a very good edge or two sheared off and the sds has gone unrepeated since. I'm throwing down the gauntlet ... this would probably be the hardest up problem on the mountain, if it ever goes again. Begin from a sds on the large obvious angled shelf 3 feet off the ground and use bad edges to make a big move up into the start for #6.

8. So Wrong V7/8 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2000
The original start involves a big jumpstart to matching edges on the left side of #6. The alternative start is to do the first move of #6 and match it up. After that, the next couple holds are decent, then move left using a small LH edge in a seam and a high committing RF heel-hook to do a RH crossover up to the high fin. It's not over until you've reached the seam at 25 feet, several feet left of the top of #6. Bring lots of pads.

9. Diverse Traverse V5/6 sds ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the angled shelf at the base of #5-7, move through underclings, then battle past the crack all the way into #15. A little tweaky passing #12.
10. The Capstan Dyno AKA The Direct South Overhang V6 ... FA: Pat Ament 1968/9
From South Overhang’s starting pockets, maybe use the pebble as an intermediate to throw up and right to a sloping dish. Continue straight up to join #s 11 and 12 and go to the top of the seam. Downclimb with #12.
11. South Overhang V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
From the pockets just right of #12, reach/slap up to edges just right of the crack, joining the crack higher up for the finish. Downclimb with #12.

12. South Crack V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, early 1960’s

Use severely polished feet to start up the pin-scarred finger crack. Tall, but the crux is the first few moves. Variation #1 - South Crack Sit V5 sds: Begin from a sds, in underclings in the hole down and to the right and - without using the pockets at the base of #10 and #11 - reach for and establish in the crack and head up.

13. Sarabande V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Start up South Crack, the pockets just to the left or a combination of both. After ~15 feet, trend up and left to the top where #14 ends.

14. West Face V1 X ... FA: Unknown

Pockets and polished edges take you up this 35-footer. Reaches are necessary, but it’s all there. With long slings wrapped around a weird feature up top, it’s possible to set up a toprope.

15. Northwest Edges V3 ... FA: Unknown

Ascend thin edges up to the sloping and top-out maneuvers. So good.

16. Northwest Traverse V2 ... FA: Unknown

Traverse up and left across edges to a lock-off move to the obvious large pebble around the corner, then pull around and establish on the face.

17. Northeast Mantel V0 ... FA: Unknown

From a low start on the far left of the north face, grunt your way up and right to the obvious mantel ledge and fight your way up there.

18. Northeast Corner V4 ... FA: Unknown
From a good undercling a couple feet left of the northeast corner, move up to small edges and numerous pebbles that allow one to pull over.

19. East Face, Far Right Side V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
The name for this scary problem is a misnomer. Start atop the talus boulder leaning against the east face and head right up the slabby pebbly face to the top.

HAIRPIN BOULDER

20. Hairpin Left V0 ... FA: Unknown
Climb straight up to the ledge using an edge or two and several good pockets.

21. Hairpin Right V1 ... FA: Unknown

Head up the short dihedral to the lip, then trend right to topout.

The Unmentionables Miniguide

The Unmentionables refers to previously undocumented and obscure blocks that reside between Road Sign Rock and the Backside of the Amphitheater. There are no gems, although there are a few problems of dubious quality on dubious rock. There is also nothing hard here, as the rock quality does not make it amenable to hard problems. The one not-quite-redeeming quality is that if you check it out, you will have the place to yourself. A few of these obscure problems are worth checking out if you don't mind dicey rock quality. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then continue up the hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road passing Road Sign Rock on the right. Where the faint footpath takes off downhill towards the Notlim Boulder and Hollow's Way, another faint trail will head up an initially gentle hill to the west to two sets of boulders. You will reach the first cluster of climbable boulders and 5 problems after 5o to 75 yards. To reach the second cluster of boulders and 6 more problems, head straight uphill up a steep and loose wash just after the Bonzai Boulder. After 75 yards and after passing lots of worthless choss on the right, you will come to a small platform. One problem is up and left, while 5 more are off to the right.

UNMENTIONABLES BLOCK

1. Unmentionables Warmup VB ... FA: Unknown

A couple easy moves straight up and you'll be on top. Problems #2-4 are on the north or downhill side of this boulder.

2. Fingerlock Catfight V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

From good edges on the northeast corner, a hard move gets you to an undercling fingerlock pocket. Now pull the bulge and go to the top.

3. Lucky Strike V3/4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Start 10 feet right of #2 and steer up and slightly left from stance to stance up the bulging slab to the top. Sketchy, until the last bit.

4. Paris-Roubaix V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Oh the cobblestones! A couple feet right of #3, ascend cobbles and pebbles up this 25 foot grooved slab with committing moves up high. Trust those stones, but definitely utilize 3-points of contact. It saved me from a death-defying tumble.

BONZAI BOULDER

5. Bonzai Bulge V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Just north of the faint footpath, pull the northeast-facing bulge up onto a slab. Avoid the small bonsai tree that may still reside a few feet to the left.

PEAR BOULDER

6. Pear-Shaped Women V5/6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006

When you arrive at the top of the steep hill and the second cluster of boulders, look to your left and 20 yards away is this lowball north-facing overhang. Begin from a sds on an obvious RH hold and any of 3 LH holds that are within reach, the lowest of which provides the stiffest challenge. Pull up and over the bulge.

OVERTON FIN

7. Overton Fin V1 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006

When you reach the top of the steep hill, look right and you'll see this diminutive little piece of stone under a chossy spire. Begin from a sds and surf left across this short fin of good rock and pull over on jugs.

UNMENTIONABLES ALCOVE

8a&b. American Spirit V2 (a) / V4 (b) ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Continue past #7 around and into the alcove for #8-11. Moss and lichen are trying to reclaim this one. Right of #9, ascend a bulge and slab from the obvious LH sidepull and RH jug (a) or RH cobble (b). Descend off to the right from the slab.
9a&b. Spooky V2 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2006
Opposite #10, ascend the arête right of the chimney from a head-high start (a) or start a move lower slightly to the right for V4 (b). Pull over onto the slab and head for the top.

10. Seeing Ghosts V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Opposite #9, ascend the left side of the chimney for 16 feet to the sloping topout. The rock quality at the bottom is horrid, but it gets much better the higher you get.

11. The Hand of Man V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

The name comes from an obvious handprint left by someone years after this problem was established. Start low and left on crimps and trend up and right to an unsatisfying finish below a crumbly headwall guarding the top.

Road Sign Rock & Brown Glass Wall Miniguide

It's pretty simple, there are a good selection of lowball problems on Road Sign Rock, whereas the Brown Glass Wall is a good place to do some moderate highballin', occasionally with an X rating. A few problems have been added to the historical repertoire of problems that other guidebooks have covered, so check them out. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the stairs to Capstan Rock, then walk up a hill passing the Capstan on your right. Cross the road and you will be confronted with the obvious Road Sign Rock with the OBVIOUS drilled pockets just off the road. Around the back side of this boulder on the right is the beginnings on what has become known as the Brown Glass Wall which continues down the hill for an additional 30 yards. Just beyond this is the Notlim Boulder and the classic everyone has to try Hollow's Way.

ROAD SIGN ROCK

1. East Bulge V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

Start right next to the road on two head-high slopers. Heel-hook the top, bump to thin pebbly edges and fight your way up top.

2. Road Sign Right V3 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using only the rightmost drilled 2” pocket, move up to the good edge and pebble and top out.

3. Road Sign Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980’s

From the same sds as #4 on the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, traverse right across all four drilled pockets, then find a way to pull up on top. Tricky and painful.

4. Road Sign Left V1 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using only the leftmost drilled 2” pocket, pop up to the good edge at the lip and pull over.

5. Northwestern Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, use small edges and pebbles and good feet to pull straight up and over around the corner to the right from the sloping rail. The feet are really good which makes up for the sparsity and size of the features for the hands.

6. North Overhang Direct V6 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to the sloper rail. As soon as you are on the rail, topout straight up by going RH to the small flat pebble all by itself in the middle of the bulge. Work your feet and go LH to either of two slopey lumps directly above the pebble and battle your way up top.

7. North Overhang Traverse V3/4 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail until you reach several small finger divots and finish up #9.

8. Full North Overhang Traverse V6 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the far right on low opposing slopers, bump to and slide left along the sloper rail. Stay low and continue further left than #7 via more heel-hooks, body tension and long reaches to topout with #10.

9. North Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown

Not quite a sds, start low on finger divots and edges just left of the well-chalked rail. Heel-hook and make a long mantel up to either of two large pebbles and finish up and over.

10. North Face VB ... FA: Unknown

Left of #9, start on good edges above a small boulder to do a move to the lip and pull up into the branches.

11. Northeast Bulge V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1960’s

Start a few feet right of #1 at the bottom of a good layaway rail that arches upward. Throw a heel and pull yourself up top. Harder than it looks.

BROWN GLASS WALL
12. Mopping Up V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start at the base of a gash about 15 feet right of #s 13 & 14. The gash narrows to a thin seam after a few feet, but edges will get you to the top where a jug awaits.

13. Bucket Right V1 ... FA: Unknown
From the first juggy flake on the prow, steer right around the corner up edges. Continue to the top past edges and knobs to a large dish/hueco up top. Airy and fun.
14. Bucket V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975
Climb juggy flakes up the west face of the leaning prow up to a slopey beachball ledge. From there, do a scary and committing reach or throw to the very top of the prow above what I consider to be a no-fall landing. Fun until the end and then very committing.

15. Detached Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown
Hand-traverse the detached right-arching ledge system up and right and pull over. Pray the entire bulge doesn’t detach any further while you're on it.
16. Brown Glass Overhang V6 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002
Before the Trash Bash Era, hundreds of broken bottles resided at this problem's base. Begin from a sds matched on the sloping shelf down low on the arête and bump your way up the arête. All the difficulties mercifully come early, then you'll slide left to finish out the face slightly to the right.

17. Briggs’ Bridges V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Climb pebbles and edges up the 20'+ rounded arête on the right. Bring numerous pads to protect you from the exposed leg- and ankle-breaking roots below and spotters to protect you from the mellon-splattering blocks behind them. A better idea is not to fall.

18. Fear on Layaway V4 X ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2003

Start up mostly pebbles with #19. Then use the LH layaway just right of the good flakes with your LH to move right up the face over to topout with #17. As yet, only done after extensive cleaning and toprope rehearsal. It's very insecure up there and the fall is the same as #17, so don't blow it!

19. Right Side V1 X ... FA: Unknown
Start up mostly pebbles on the slabby shield down low, then pull a small roof via some good flakes and go up and left to the top. Quite possibly the best highball V1 on the mountain ... actually ... #22 may be better!

20. Right V V0 X ... FA: Unknown

After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #21, use huge right-arching edges to reach for holds over the top and pull over. It's funky and committing up there in spite of the moderate grade.
21. Left V V2 X ... FA: Unknown

After low-angled and fun face climbing on jugs with #20, climb left out the deep gash that allows for a solid jam or two as you move up and left to better holds at the topout.

22. Back Extension V1 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
On the left side of the wall, climb jugs and low-angled rock to the jug-haul roof just left of the topout for #21. Awesome!

23. Meddling Blocks Traverse V3/4 ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the jug above the left end of the meddling blocks. Make a long RH reach to a jug rail and continue up and right without dabbing on the blocks. Once your established on the arête, cruise up it to the top.
24. Stem Rise V2 X ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Stem off of the top of left side of the meddling boulder behind you on #23 to establish up on the face just left of #23. Now you are faced with a 30' (maybe taller), lichen-infested and somewhat chossy slab that has probably only seen a couple of ascents. Climb the line of least resistance past some obvious features to the top. A direct and proper start off the jug seems feasible ... assuming you are still interested.

Cloud Shadow Wall Miniguide

Problems have been concocted all over the expansive length of the Cloud Shadow Wall. A few are independent and obvious. The majority are contrived in one way, shape or form. The rock quality is excellent, so even the contrived problems provide interesting worthwhile challenges. There are problems of all grades across across the V System as well as one of Jim Holloway's Big Three, Trice, presumably the hardest up-problem on Flagstaff Mountain and the world's first V12, circa 1975. By my count, Trice saw 6 repeats between November 2007 and March 2008 on the heels of Andy Mann's Climbing Magazine article on Jim Holloway in late 2007. I still find this storyline borderline shocking, as it sat unrepeated for 32 years. Props must go out again to both Carlo Traversi and Jamie Emerson for "reopening" the problem. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach Cloud Shadow Wall is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to the obvious Cloud Shadow Wall.
1. Hagan’s Alcove V1 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969
There are lots of ways to start this one (from the right/from the left/sit-start). Once you're standing on the right-leaning ramp, head straight up the bulging face to the top using edges, pebbles and a thin pocket or two.
2. Launching Pad V3/4 ... FA: John Baldwin, 1986
The subject of much confusion - due to a missing pebble that broke off in the 1990's - that was recently restored to its original condition by an unknown party. Reach high to pissy side-by-side edges and/or the restored whitish-pink pebble if you can reach it. Perch on the right side of the right-leaning ramp and once established on the whitish-pink pebble, get your RF up on a small edge and make a move with the quickness up and right with your RH to an edge behind another pebble steering away from #1. From there, head directly to the top.
3. Soon to be Souvenir V8 ... FA: Alex Manikowski, 2008
A hardish direct start to #2 that is now possible due to the restored pebble. Begin above a slanting slab of rock imbedded in the ground between #2 and #4. Start with your RH high on an obvious toothy crytalline pincher edge and your LH on something poor and not all that helpful (there are a couple options). Power up and left to a good pinkish-white pebble on #2 that was recently restored. Hope it stays and go again to another good edge behind a pebble and head for the top with #2.
4. Dandy Line V7 ... FA: Dan Stone, 1980
Climb atop the 2nd boulder left of #5 via some funkyness. Reach to a crumbling half-moon edge with your RH and either jump or match and get a foot on and go to a high LH edge, then to the top. Unfortunately, the high starting edge continues to disintegrate.
5. Hagan’s Wall V5 ... FA: Paul Hagan, 1969
Where the trail meets the wall, balance on top of a small boulder on the left and get your LH on the high and sharp edge and your RH into the 2-finger pocket out right. Now get your feet on, reach/swing/throw to the sloping diagonal seam with your RH. There are couple ways to do the finish. A funky double-pebble hold followed by jugs will help you get there. But for the annoying cheaterstone start, this would be a classic anywhere on Earth. As it is, it's a great problem.
6. Project

A possible direct start to #5. There are obvious starting holds and feet which aren't horrible, but a long and difficult move guards the entrance to #5. C'mon strongmos!
7. Hagan’s Wall Direct V10 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2000
Begin slightly to the right of #5 and #6. Choose amongst a number of bad edges and feet, pull on and go LH into the 2-finger pocket (you get this hold with your RH on #5). From there, get the small 2-finger divot slightly above it with your RH and slide left into #5 to top out.
8. Yojimbo V? ... FA: Christian Griffith, early 1990’s
Lots of the features on this problem, some of which were reinforced with glue in the 1990's, have broken or deteriorated. It probably still goes, but at a much higher clip than the given grade of V8. Start matched down low on the half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10 and climb the face immediately right of #5 straight to the top.
9. Shadowline V9 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2008
Squeezed between #8 and #10 is a recently completed Peter Beal problem. From the same half-moon starting crimps shared by #s 8-10, go LH to the obvious crimp/pinch directly above and RH to either of two bad sloping pinches (note: the keyhole hold is off-route). From there, go to a thin LH crimp before gaining better holds at the fifth handrail (on #13) and finishing.
10. Hand Traverse Direct V8 ... FA: Unknown
A bit circuitous, but the easiest way to the top from the start shared by #s 8-10. Begin on the same half-moon starting crimps and head up and right to the fifth handrail (on #13) which is 5 feet up and right from the starting crimps. All the holds on are "on" including the keyhole, a fingerslot located just below the sloping fifth handrail. Crossing over into it is easier said than done, but may help you finish this one.
11. Third Handrail Direct V2/3 ... FA: Unknown
From the perfection of the third handrail (on #13) , pull on, slap to a sloper, then to a series of jugs. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet.
12. Second Handrail Direct V3... FA: Unknown
Awkwardly pull on at the second handrail (on #13) on another set of perfect starting holds and immediately get a decent RH sidepull sloper, adjust your feet and go to better holds including a sinker pocket. At about 12 feet, join #15 for a fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet.
13. The Hand Traverse AKA Ramp Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown
Some guidebooks have listed this classic as V2, although during discussions of grades maybe folks confused it with #14. In any event, start at the first of five perfect handrails and traverse left across the remaining four, trending upward with pissy footholds most of the way. From the fifth handrail, get your feet up and reach way left to a decent crimp, match and continue up the ramp to finish. I would suggest having this one wired if you hope to receive full credit for either #22b or 23, as it is pumpy and scary in it's own right and adds tenuous moments to the end of both of those pumpy-as-hell problems classic traverses.
14. Escape V2 ... FA: Unknown
Start and begin traversing with #13, but from the fourth handrail escape upward and finish with the fun left-trending upper traverse on good holds with lots of air under your feet. This version is easier and feels a lot safer than #13, explaining its popularity.
15. Upper Traverse V1 ... FA: Unknown
From the right-most (first) handrail, reach right to a pocket then head up to good edges. Continue up and left across jugs and other good holds for a total of 30 feet of moderate fun.
16. Bob Williams’ Pull V4/5 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969/1970
A one-move wonder that is probably height-dependent. Roughly in the center of the wall, find a vertical line of three pockets. Cram one or both sets of fingers into the highest of these, a circular pocket 6 feet up. Then put your LF up on the slippery sloping handrail and swing or throw to the large solution pocket more than 5 feet up and left. Fun for a laugh.
17. Diagonal Break VB ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets and head straight up to the diagonal break on good holds. Once there, use anything and everything to ascend the slab/gash to the top just above where #15 traverses across the face.
18. Cloud Shadow Solo VB X ... FA: Unknown
This 35+ foot problem/solo is intimidating and falling is not an option higher up, yet it's all there. You can literally start anywhere in the vicinity, but the easiest way is to start at the high jugs right of the vertical line of pockets with #17. When you reach the diagonal break, find good holds to head out the intimidating headwall to the top, where there are a few ways to safely finish. Long reaches are sometimes necessary even higher up, but the holds are really good and the footholds are reasonably secure. Despite the VB grade, this problem/solo is obviously not for the faint of heart or beginner boulderers.
19. The Consternation V3 ... FA: Unknown
Another way - and in my opinion a better way - to climb into the topout for #20. Begin on the low diagonal jug that is the starting hold for #23. Head up and left along the diagonal break to jugs at 10 feet, reach left to a pocket, get your feet up and stand up tall to reach the start of the finish for #20, the site of much consternation. See #20, for more info about the finish.
20. The Contemplation V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Left of the bulge, start up a series of pockets, then trend left across a series of more complicated grips including an undercling to a good set of holds and a stance with meager feet at 16 feet, the namesake site of much contemplation. From here, reach up and right to an edge at the lip, get your feet up and now further contemplate the mess you’ve gotten yourself into as you pull onto the finishing slab blessed with plenty of lichen. Downright scary.

21. The High Cloud Shadow Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Unknown
From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges. As you move left, stay reasonably high so you can finish with style across #15, laughing all the while at the foolfaces below troubling themselves with the slopey handrails and pissy footholds.
22a&b. The Cloud Shadow Traverse V4 (a) / V5 (b) ... FA: Bob Poling, late 1960’s / early 1970’s
From the starting hold for #20, traverse left across pockets and good edges until you arrive at the first of the five handrails. From the first handrail, continue across and up #14 for V4 (a) or #13 for V5 (b). Both are classic challenges, not because any of the moves individually are all that hard, but rather because the sloping handrails and pissy footholds are a frustrating nightmare when you're pumped.
23. The Low Cloud Shadow Traverse V7 ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1988
A bit contrived, but alas really good! From the well-chalked diagonal jug that is the starting hold for #19, traverse left staying low across very low crimps, pinches and only the lowest of the pockets using no holds over 5 feet high (including the starting hold on #16) until the proper finish across #13.

24. The Moderate Bulge V1 ... FA: Unknown
Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 and start up the pockets (crux). Once the start is behind you, get a LH sidepull/undercling in the large solution pocket ~11 feet up, head for the incut rail up and right. Pull over from there and traverse over to the right to get down. One of the best for the grade on the mountain.
25. The Consideration V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969
Begin with the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24 and aim up and right to the top. The key is getting your LH in the second pocket and bumping to the well-chalked crimp rail with your RH. A small crimp is available for your LH before you stop considering your lack of other options and GO for the incut rail at the lip. Right up there with Hollows Way in terms of quality ... one of the very best on the mountain, regardless of grade. Variation #1 - True Consideration V3/4: Start up #25, but once you get the RH crimp rail, match your LH with your RH (instead of using the small LH crimp) and throw for the lip (OK, the strongmos won't have to throw all that hard but mortals will). The match and go to the rail makes the finish a little more difficult and a lot more exciting, as in LOTS of consideration.
26. Reverse Consideration V4 ... FA: Jim Holloway, early 1970’s
Switch hands for your first move on #25 and go RH into the second pocket. For the next improbable-looking move, do a wild crossover with your LH all the way to the rail. The key is having your feet right. From this ridiculous body position, uncoil, match, ignore the LH crimp, throw for the lip and pull over. This is an absolute crazy problem from the word go.

27. Epoch V12/13 ... FA: Carlo Traversi, 2007

This probably should have been listed as a variation, but since it's a link-up into the hardest up-problem on the mountain, I've listed it separately. From the same start as #29, traverse right 3 moves into and up #30. Doing anything before you have to do #30 probably adds something.

28. UCT-Bob’s Bulge Link-Up V9/10 ... FA: presumably Jim Holloway, 1974

Start with #29, and do the first 7 moves or so of #29, but finish up the sharp slopey rail with #32 & 33 (NOT above the dihedral with #36).

29. Undercling Traverse (UCT) AKA Low-Level Traverse V8/9 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974
Originally named the Low-Level Traverse, I could go on and on about why this problem SHOULD NOT start in the arbitrary place that it does, but the historical acceptance of this start probably cannot be undone. So ... begin with your LH in the starting pocket for #20-22 & #24-26 and your RH in the sidepull (slightly underclingy) pocket slightly down and to the right. It's 10 or 11 moves until you can finish up via the dihedral and #36, which is rated V2 by itself, but will feel much harder when you escape the long moves and underclings preceding it.
30. Trice AKA A.H.R. V12 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1975
One of Holloway's Big Three that saw lots of action and 6 sends during the winter of 2007-2008. Begin this problem on the good LH sidepull and RH undercling. From there, go RH into the the shallow pocket ~9 feet up, get it just right (there is a slight trick that helps for some folks) and use a high LF heel or toe to lock-in and snag a small sloping edge with your LH. Keep your LF or reset it to throw up and right with your RH to the sloping rail, get a jug at the top of the rail and pull over onto the slab.
31. A.K.R. V11 ... FA: Jim Karn, 1988
A variation to #30 established when Jim Karn was one of the strongest climbers on the planet. From the same starting grips as #30, go LH into the same shallow pocket as #30. Fire right to the sloping rail and fight the twisting swing. Regroup, get the jug at the top of the sloping rail and pull over onto the slab.

32. The Holloway Direct V7 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1974
A more direct start to #33 that begins with both hands matched on the good undercling, does a hard move out the the sharp slopey rail, where the battle continues up #33.
33. Bob’s Bulge AKA The Bulge Traverse V6 ... FA: Bob Williams, 1969
Start LH on the good undercling and RH up on the sloping left-trending rail, bump your RH up the rail, then use a high RF scum to establish both hands on the rail and start surfing. A real battle and definitely harder than the previously published grade of V5 suggests.

34. Will’s Contrived Bulge V5 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2005

I forgot how contrived this problem is ... In hindsight, I should have listed it as a variation, but at this point it's too late for that. Still interested? ... Start immediately left of the short left-facing dihedral and #36 on a LH undercling and small RH pebble, reach up to the first holds on the slab located between the sloping rail (the finishing rail for #28, #32 & #33) and the dihedral that is used to finish #29 and to start #36 (the holds you use are the sloping crimps that you use on #29 as you approach the dihedral). Anyway, ascend the bulge/slab angling up and left between these features without using the seam on the right or any feet out right. See? ... I told you.
35. Epochalypse V13 ... FA: Daniel Woods, 2008
Currently the hardest problem on the mountain, although it's a link-up of a portion of a traverse and an up-problem, essentially guaranteeing it won't see a lot of action. It has the possibility of a start from further on the right, the full linkup if you will (more on that later). Begin with #36 at the dihedral, traverse left under the bulge until you reach the start for #30. Now, topout #30. Great job Daniel, I just wish you'd started on #39 (maybe the snow/ice prevented it at the time), which would have added a bit more pump, a tad more difficulty and made my job a little simpler. Clearly, you wanted to leave something for someone to do later, maybe something called Epochalypse Now ... ha!
36. Far East Inside Corner V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968

Just right of the bulge, start at the good layaway crack in the right-facing dihedral and battle your way up onto the ramp.
37. Sloping Mantel V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968/9

Just right of #36, thin shoulder high crimps sit at the edge of a sloping ramp. Use them to pull yourself straight up there any way you can. A laugher and soooooo much harder than it looks.
38. Reverse UCT AKA TCU V9/10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 1998

There has been some confusion about the grade of this problem and I believe that it mostly stems from folks misunderstanding the true start ... which begins from a sds ~8 feet right of the start holds for #37 at a little cave on the very far right of the wall. Battle across small edges with RF heelhooks until you reach the dihedral and can find your sequence under the bulge. Keep at it until you can finish up #25 on the other side of the bulge.
39. The Full Cloud Shadow Traverse V10 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2001

Approximately 70 feet of traversing action. Begin via #38 and traverse left, continuing left under the bulge with #38. Where #38 joins and finishes up #25, continue left, joining #22b, the classic traverse of the wall that finishes up the five handrails on the left side of the wall. Very long and pumpy. Variation #1 - Trolling for Mank V10/11: Another 70+ footer with lots of places to make mistakes. This is a Justin Jaeger variation to #39 that instead of joining and finishing across #22b, drops down to join and finish across the much more technical #23. Of note, Justin misunderstood the start for #38 and began traversing from the starting crimpers of #37. Thus, he skipped the first few moves from the sds.

The Pedestal Miniguide

Located near the east end of Cloud Shadow Wall, The Pedestal possesses a number of fine moderate problems that mostly serve as warmups before folks get silly with all that the Cloud Shadow Wall offers. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach The Pedestal is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. The Pedestal is the free-standing lump of rock located 10 feet from the east (far) end of Cloud Shadow Wall.

1. East Slab VB ... FA: Unknown

Start low on the left side of the east face and head up obvious holds.

2a&b. East Seam VB ... FA: Unknown

From either start, climb the slab/crack with lots of positive surrounding features to the top.

3. East Bulge V3 ... FA: Unknown

Contrived but fun. Start with #2b. With good feet, move up and establish in a short seam with some handjams and an undercling. Utilize at least one edge on the high slab right of #2 to accomplish the topout.

4. Northeast Layback V2 ... FA: Unknown

Really fun. From the starting holds for #5 (a selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal), move up to matching crimps and continue straight to the top. The easiest and funnest way I've found to do this problem is to bump into a high flake jug with your RH, high-step and pull yourself up top.
5. Pedestal Traverse V2 ... FA: Jim Erickson, 1969
From the selection of poor but well-chalked features under the right side of the east side of the Pedestal, trend up and right up a rail sytem that continues around the other side of the boulder to topout.
6. Achey Variation V3 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1980
Start under the left side of the west-facing overhang on obvious holds and reach up, back and left with your LH to the rail. Match and pull directly up top here.
7. The Roof V0 ... FA: Unknown
Not a roof. From the same start as #6, make a long easy reach to a small RH crimp, go again to the rail and pull over the left side of the west-facing overhang.
8. The Notch VB ... FA: Unknown
Left of the tree and the downclimb, climb up and over on big holds on the right side of the overhang.
9. Pedestal Arete V0 ... FA: Unknown
Down by itself, well right of the overhang and the tree, start low on and continue up good holds to a moderate topout.

The Alcove Miniguide

The Alcove is the moniker for the corridor splitting the middle of The Cloud Shadow complex of rock. On the south side is the Cloud Shadow Wall and on the north side is Cloud Shadow's Other Side. There are a number of good problems of various styles and difficulties here, although the fun that can be had may not be all that obvious on first glance. Look again, unless you are solely motivated by really hard problems. Where: The best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - to approach The Alcove is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As you approach the western edge of the wall, turn left and head slightly uphill for 15 yards. The problems start here and extend down both sides of the corridor.

NORTH SIDE

1. Name Pending V2/3 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008

Start on the obvious holds on the southeast corner and WITHOUT using the low shelf for feet, traverse left across the roof/overhang until you can topout on the far left.

2. South Mantel V1 ... FA: Unknown

Start at the southeast corner, slide left a tad and maybe use a chossy intermediate or two to get your feet up, grab the top jug and pull over.

3. The Alcove Dyno V7 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003
A one-move wonder, but a pretty good one. Start with #1 and #2 on obvious handholds on the southeast corner with marginal feet. From there, throw 5+ feet up to the high corner and pull over. Much harder and more subtle than it looks on first glance.

4. East Overhang Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-3 and traverse a few feet right to join #7 for the topout.

5. New Beginnings V9 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008

Begin at the obvious holds on the corner with #s 1-4, and traverse right, staying low which will bring you to the starting hold for #8. Now climb #8.
6. East Overhang Left V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds on a large sidepull up under the east face. Move up into the undercling and then out the short overhang just left of the prominent crack. The crack is on and useful for the RH, but everything right of it is not.
7. East Overhang Crack V2/3 (a) / V3/4 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown
Begin with a LH undercling and RH in/near the crack splitting the face (a) or begin from a sds on a large and low sidepull with #6 that precedes the good undercling (b). Either way, the topout is a little devious until you've got it wired.
8. Curmudgeon V7/8 sds ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1983
Begin from a sds four feet right of #7 under the roof, this time on a right-facing sidepull jug. Climb straight out the short overhang on the amazingly perfect crimps with very cool moves. All feet are on, but the the vertical crack and the handholds associated with it are off-route. There are a couple tricks for this one that make it a bit easier than folks once thought, including a LH bump move to a better crimp, a dangerous but bomber heel-toe lock and a possible kneebar scum. Safety-wise, there is a horn up in a small dihedral on the slab behind the climber that easily allows you to hang a pad on the slab and protect the climber's back. Variation #1 - True Curmudgeon ~V8/9 sds: CG's original sequence unintentionally avoided a useful hold, the higher incut LH edge that you can bump to just below the lip. Off-routing this forces the climber to make a longer and more difficult RH move off the small and slick LH crimp. There is no consensus on the grade, so be prepared for something between V8 and V10.
9. Sailor’s Delight V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
High up above the middle of the corridor, after ascending a slab is an imposing roof. Pull out the roof to jugs at the lip and roll over. It’s difficult and unwise to backtrack once you commit to the lip so finish with confidence on the jugs.
10. Jagged Little Thrill V1 ... FA: Unknown

Down and right from #9 but still on the north side of The Alcove, hand-traverse up and left on jugs that start down low on the far right. Trend up and left to the top of the perched boulder and pull over.

SOUTH SIDE
11. North Slot V0 ... FA: Unknown
From a low start, climb the wide and somewhat chossy slot to the top.
12. Crack Allegro V1/2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Right of #11, start on holds above your head next to the right-arching and sloping seam and work your way up to the top.
13. Allegro Bulge V2 sds / V4/5 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds right of #12, climb perfect edges out the bulge to a possible mantel finish. The V2 version uses ALL the feet. The V4/5 version off-routes the big foot shelf out right and makes use of an incredible LF heel-toe cam to start.
14. Allegro Traverse V4 ... FA: Unknown
Start on good holds several feet right of #13 and traverse left on obvious holds - staying low across the Allegro problems - to a finish up #11.
15. Alcove Traverse V7 ... FA: Willie Mein, mid 1990's
Start as per #14, but continue 10 more feet left around a bulging arête to finish on a slab just right of a wide slot. Grungy and way too much lichen for my taste once you round the corner, but maybe it will clean up with some traffic.

Cloud Shadow's Other Side Miniguide

And I'm not talking about The Alcove, as that will be covered in a subsequent post. These problems are located on the north side of the Cloud Shadow complex up in a strangely isolated spot. There isn't a lot here, but there are a few lines worth playing/warming up on and one absolute gem, Stranger Than Friction. Where: There are a couple ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Continue along the guardrail past the halfway point in the hairpin turn and look for a gap in the boulders up to the right. Rockhop through the gap up into an open area and you're there. All the problems are within 10 yards of one another.

1. The Other Side Arête V2 ... FA: Unknown

Climb the short and obvious arête up onto a ledge. Starting low seems possible, but it's still pretty chossy.

2. Pebble Wrestler V4 ... FA: Unknown

Just left of #1, start on head-high pebbles on a vertical face. Perch in a pocket foothold and make a big move to snatch a sloping crimp up on the ramp and continue up and right to the topout with #1.

3. Aching Absence V3 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
Directly below #4, from a sds climb out from under a little overhang onto the slab.
4. Rocket V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
This is a one-move-wonder out the short overhang on the slab. Begin from a sds up on the high slab on a good RH sidepull edge and a decent LH undercling or thin crimp. Find your feet, make a move to the lip, slide right and pull over.

5. Space Ship V5/6 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2008
Start matched on good edges in the horizontal seam down and right from the start holds on #4. With good feet, stretch LH to the RH starting hold for #4. The next move defies description, but here goes ... as you gently lean into the LH gaston, go hard for and catch the lip with your RH pulling your feet up to avoid your pad. Hold the swing and pull over with #4. Crazy!

6. Project V? sds

A lower and direct start to #4 that has cleaned up quite a bit over the last couple years, but I'm still pretty sure this once chossy line has not been done. Start low matched on a good edge and make a very difficult move or two up into #4. Should be double digits.

7. Stranger Than Friction V6 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
A little bit of Hueco on Flagstaff that is crazy fun and IMHO one of the best problems on the mountain regardless of grade. For full value, begin from a sds matched on a separate flake of rock down to the right, make a move back to a flat LH edge in the middle of the overhang. Work your feet up, getting your body completely horizontal and perform a 6+ foot crossover to a good RH pinch. From here, swing your feet through and continue up and slightly left to the top with body tension and controlled thrutches and bumps involving small edges on the face out left. This one does not disappoint! Variation #1 - Pulp Friction V6/7 sds: An Andy Manikowski contribution. Start with #7, but climb straight out the thin face above to a topout on jugs with #9. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two, as the landing is uneven talus. ALL feet are on, including the starting block.

8. Santos on Mom's Command V6 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008

Start with #7, but from the RH pinch head straight up the arête to finish.

9. Doctrine of Equivalents V6/7 sds ... FA: Scott Neel, 2008

Start with #7, but from the good RH pinch head up the arête with #8. Instead of topping it out straight up, however, veer right across edges on the face or slopers on the lip until you reach finishing jugs.

Panorama Point Trail Miniguide

This area is comprised of a few blocks littered along the sides of the officially unnamed linkage trail that heads up from Panorama Point across the meadow, through a sea of foliage and across Flagstaff Road, eventually passing Nook's Rock on your right before joining the East Flagstaff Trail down below Cloudshadow Wall. If walking up from Panorama Point, you will find the previously unnamed Panorama Rock and Panorama Roof, Scalawag Rock and The Hall of Horrors. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking area. After 100 yards you'll pass some bathrooms. Shortly thereafter the trail will crash into Panorama Rock and a number of fine moderates. On the opposite side of the trail, maybe 20 yards away is Panorama Roof. Head up trail for 100 more yards, wind through some dense foliage, and Scalawag Rock will be on your right. Continue further up trail, cross Flagstaff Road, and after 30 yards The Hall of Horrors will come into view up on the right. If you see Nook's Rock up on your right, you've gone too far.
PANORAMA ROCK
1a&b. Panorama Notch V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown
From a knob on the protruding corner (a), pull into the notch and up onto the top. A sds (b) begins on low crimpers and swings for the knob.
2. Panorama Arête VB sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds, climb the well-featured southeast arête on good holds to the top. One of the best novice problems on the mountain.
3. Panorama Traverse V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
Start with #2 and hand traverse left across the ledge system, dropping down at the halfway mark and finishing up #8 on the far left.
4. Panorama Traverse Low V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin awkwardly from a sds under the shelf and traverse left, staying under the shelf all the way into Southwest Bulge. Silly, awkward, bunchy and contrived.
5. Panorama Face V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds just left of #4, do some long moves on big holds straight up the face into the branches.
6. Capstone Right V0 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds, pull the bulge with #7 onto a ledge. Trend up and right around the roof to an easy - yet airy and insecure - finish on a small ledge requiring balance and steady footwork. The topout sequence makes this one fun and worth the effort.
7. Capstone Left V0 sds ... FA:Unknown
From a sds, pull the bulge with #6 onto a ledge. Steer left below the roof and use spooky incut edges on the perched capstone boulder's face to pull over the very top.
8. Low Bulge V0 sds ... FA:Unknown
From a sds on the far left next to a crack, pull the low bulge up onto the ledge.
PANORAMA ROOF
9. Panorama Roof V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
Just south of the trail, begin via a sds on jugs under the almost horizontal roof, throw back to the lip and pull over on good holds.
SCALAWAG ROCK
10. Scalawag V5 ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1978
Climb the right side of the northeast face up and left to the incut hueco at the lip. Thin crimps, shallow divots and a pebble or two will get you to a point where you will have to make a move for the high hueco.
11. Large Hueco VB ... FA: Unknown
Just right of the northwest corner, climb to the top via the large hueco.
HALL OF HORRORS
12. Wasabi V3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004
Begin from a sds matched on the obvious ledge. The key to pulling the bulge is getting to a RH sidepull undercling and a sloper before good crimps up top.
13. The Gristle V1 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008
Begin standing below the ledge, just right of the tree, and climb the face above slightly to the right. From the starting holds, slide right to a large pocket, reach LH to the protruding pebble on the face and get a small RH crimp, where the good topout grips come into view.
14. Nuke on High V2 ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008
Start with #13, below the upper ledge, and ascend the left side of the face just right of the tree. The key is getting your RH on the protruding pebble in the middle of the face before moving to crimps just short of the top.
15. Quasimodo V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008
Doesn't look like much, but borderline great. On the right side of the corridor, begin from a sds and head up and right up a series of incut underclings. From the last undercling at 10 feet, make a reach left to a crimp and pull the interesting bulge probably walking your feet up to your hands on a slabby ledge. Once standing on the ledge, an incut crimp on the upper slab at 20+ feet will allow you to relax roll over onto the slab and head for the top.
16. Pickled Pigs Feet V5 sds ... FA: Ashley Overton, 2008

Begin with a sds with #15 and slide left to a LH undercling and RH 3/4-finger gaston in a shallow pocket. Make a huge crux move up and left to an incut sidepull. Now pull the delicate bulge 12 feet up on small edges and slopers to establish on the slab and continue up the slab for 25 more feet of fun.

17. Hall of Horrors V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008

Ascend the 40 foot slab that unfortunately is inundated with lichen and other debris. The useful features have been thoroughly cleaned, but nature may have it's way with this one if others don't climb it. Watch out for an interesting sequence 20 feet up.
18. Gefilte Fish V5 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004
Start RH on a pebble 7 feet up and LH on any of the other holds (there are lots of options). Perch onto the crappy ledge, make a move with the quickness to a protruding pebble or gritty sloper, then up to the lip and the large shallow dishes on the slab. Pull over onto the slab and head up easy terrain to the top.
19. Canned and Jellied V7 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008

A possibly height-dependent sds to #18 that begins hugging the arête with your RH on a small pebble way out right and your LH on a decent crimp. Make a long move to get to the starting RH hold for #18, then use any number of pissy LH holds to perch and finish with #18.
20. Dr. Strangelove V4/5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004
Almost a laugher. A couple feet left of #18, start on any of the holds below the lip, pull on, slap the top, heel-hook, rock over (desperate comedy) and dash up the tall easy slab to the top.

Nook's Rock Area Miniguide

Nook's Rock is named after one of Flagstaff Mountain's first regular boulderers, the infamous Layton Kor. Flagstaff Mountain regulars have been enjoying quiet and surprisingly cool sessions at Nook's Rock ever since. Surrounded by shade-giving pines at the bottom of a steep northeast-facing hillside, Nook's offers up some must-do slab problems, multiple challenging bulge problems above an undercut and a testy traverse with some variations that add difficulty. Colin Lantz added some nice problems here, including the feisty arête problem Slut Bammer and the 30th Birthday Roof problems. There's also Will LeMaire's testpiece, Window Shopper, as well as Butt Slammer, a beauty of a line that hasn't been repeated since a key flake broke shortly after the first ascent in 1974-75. Of note, a number of folks have sporadically worked on Butt Slammer over the years and have continued to pry or break additional flakes off, some of which were fruitlessly reinforced with epoxy. Almost everything that remains seems solid, but there's only one way to find out for sure. Where: There are other ways to approach Nook's Rock, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of problems on the right. At the bottom of the hill - where the trail levels out - a large boulder will come into view. This is Nook's Rock. Appropriately, the first thing everyone notices is Butt Slammer.

NOOK'S ROCK

1. Slut Bammer V6/7 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 2004
Start 8 feet right of Butt Slammer at the bottom of an arête. Trend left up the arête with your RH, utilizing sidepulling crimps down on the face with your LH for tension and heel-hooking most of the way into Butt Slammer’s topout.

2. Butt Slammer V? ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Right of The Scoop down in a hole, climb out the impressive south-facing overhang. To start, use a good LH flake and high RH crimp. Originally B1+, an important hold broke soon after the first ascent. Lots of other flakes and edges up high, some of which were reinforced with glue at some point, have recently snapped off as well. Plenty of holds remain. This definitely goes, it's just a question of when and by whom. Bringing lots of pads for stacking would be wise as the landing is primarily onto a 35 degree slab until the very top.

3. The Scoop VB ... FA: Unknown

Climb the low-angled and well-featured line of least resistance up the southwest face up into the branches. This is also the primary means of retreat off all the problems except the bulge problems on the east side.

4. Nook's Southwest Arête VB ... FA: Unknown

Simply put, climb straight up the southwest arête for ~20 feet.

5. Nook's Slab Far Right VB ... FA: Unknown

A few feet left of #4, climb straight up the far right side of the west-facing slab ~20 feet to the top.

6. Nook's Slab Right VB ... FA: Unknown

A few feet left of #5, pull on just right of 2 trees and climb ~20 feet to the top.

7. Nook's Slab Left VB ... FA: Unknown

A few feet left of #6, start behind a tree just left of center and climb ~20 feet to the top.

8. Nook's Slab Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
Traverse left to right across the west-facing slab from the base of #7, finishing up #4 or #3.
9. Nook's Slab Far Left VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left of the slab, ascend good edges up to an easy finish on big slopers 20+ feet up.

10. Wimpie’s Revenge V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Ascend the bulging face right of #11 on the right side of the north face. Utilize mostly pebbles and probably a dynamic move to achieve a ledge, slide right then head up to finish.

11. Wimpie’s Revenge Left V0 ... FA: Unknown
From the deep pocket, ascend the shallow dihedral to a ledge 15 feet up. Slide right then up to finish.

12a&b. Nook's Traverse V8 / V9 sds ... FA: Unknown / sds: Ted Lanzano, 2006
This problem, previously named the Southside Traverse in Benningfield's guide was reported to be V5. Maybe something has broken, but this problem actually traverses the north face from left to right. The rock is impeccable and if it wasn't a rising traverse on an aggressively sloping hillside with a meddling tree in the middle, this problem would be one of the best traverses on the mountain. Anyway, here's the beta ... Although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the left-most obvious "red" hold (a), avoiding some cool introductory possibilities. The crux comes just past the meddling tree before the problem finishes up #11. In 2006, Ted Lanzano did this problem from a low left sds (b) that traverses into the problem staying very low until you reach the red hold and the start for #12a. Variation #1 - Full Nook's Traverse V10: A few years ago, Stevie Damboise tacked an introductory sequence onto the front end of the regular traverse as well as a difficult exit sequence onto the back end. Find the "goblet hold" down near the Northeast corner and do 5 or 6 moves into #12a. Now do #12a, but from the deep pocket at the base of #11, rest/regroup then continue around the corner (staying low) and finish across #8 and up #4. Essentially a V5/6 tacked onto a V8 followed by a bit of a rest and another V8 and a long VB traverse and a VB up problem. LOTS of climbing and lots of places to make mistakes. Enjoy!

13. Northeast Corner V2 ... FA: Unknown
At the rounded northeast corner, ascend small protruding pebbles to gain the slab and move up to positive edges and a stance 15 feet up. Most people downclimb problems #13-23 to a point where they can safely jump to a pad.

14. Ashes to Ashes V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006

Begin via a sds using a LH undercling and a good RH sidepull, do a hard move, reach up to #13's starting holds and finish up #13.

15. Nipple Shredder V6 ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2006
Contrived and painful, but a laugher. Begin low on matched underclings, grovel your second foot on and slide left without using the good pebbles on #13 to obvious but poor holds. From here, battle up onto the slab all the while mindful of disengaging feet and the damage you are about to do to your torso and forearms. Long pants and sleeves made of durable materials are recommended.

16. Project

Start with #14, move up and slide left into #15, avoiding the good pebbles that you start with on #13.

17 . Northeast Undercut Far Right V3/4 ... FA: Unknown
From subtle and inobvious holds just above the lip 5 feet left of Nipple Shredder, get a foot on, go hard with your RH to a good pinch edge and grovel over.

18. Northeast Undercut Right V3 ... FA: Unknown

Start in the same place as #17 with both hands on subtle imperfections just above the lip (although your exact hand placement may be slightly different). Get a foot on, bump left for a good incut crimp, match and pull over.
19. Northeast Undercut Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, slide up and right to a good edge and mantel or go hard up and right and grovel over.

20. Northeast Undercut Far Left 2/3... FA: Unknown
Start on any of the obvious sloping pinches above your head at the lip of the boulder. Find a place for your feet, go hard to an incut LH crimp and pull over with style.
21. Don't Touch the Glass V8 ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006

Have this rig wired if you intend to start working Window Shopper. From 2 obvious but poor holds at head-height below the start for #19 and #20, pull on (difficult in and of itself) and go for the lip (crux). There are lots of candidate holds to choose from at the lip, but they are difficult to catch and hold. Hold the swing, match, then topout via #20. Variation #1 - Glass Plus V10: Another Peter Beal variation. Begins just right of #21, essentially switching starting holds for your LH onto the RH starting hold for #21 and getting your RH onto an even more miserable hold. Get your foot onto the cobble and go the lip and top out per #21.

22. Window Shopper V11 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006

One of the hardest up-problems on the mountain. I've split the difference between the 2 grades Will gave me and would appreciate input from others. Jamie Emerson managed it from two moves in and thought V10. Begin from a sds down and left from #21 on the lowest LH and RH opposing sidepulls. Bump up each hand to the higher opposing sidepulls, then slide right into and up #21.

23. Window Dressing V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2006
While standing in front of the starting holds for #22, jump hard to a small impossible-to-see hold with your RH, establish on the lip, surf left to topout on good incuts.

24. The 30th Birthday Roof Traverse V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. From crimpers on the right side of the prow, use good feet to continue right 15 more feet to a tame finish. It is possible to bag a quick rest under the roof while traversing, so get creative.

25. The 30th Birthday Roof V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1994
Start matched on an undercling below the roof with #24 and pull directly out the roof. Once established on crimpers on the right side of the prow, head for the top just right of the prow. Kind of short, but super-classic!

Notlim Boulder Miniguide

Apparently someone was a fan of Milton. Although there are a few lesser-known problems, the Notlim Boulder is home to one of the most coveted V8 ticks on the Front Range (if not all of Colorado) in Hollows Way. Done by Rob Candelaria in the mid-1970's, the name was his tribute to the fabulous Jim Holloway. One look at the tangled root-infested landing area, the thinness of the layback seam and the intimidating final move, it is almost inconceivable that this problem was done during the pre-crashpad era. Suffice to say, the exposed root system at the base is worrisome unless this rig is fully padded up. Although it is certainly not a highball in modern terms, there are lots of ways to potentially come off this problem. Well padded, however, it is a safe and incredibly aesthetic line to climb in a secluded spot away from the masses. Even better, it faces north, gets NO sun and can have decent conditions even in the middle of summer in the morning and evening. If you can only get on one problem on Flagstaff Mountain, this would be a solid choice. Where: There are a couple ways to approach this boulder, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the steps to Capstan Rock, pass it on your right, scramble up the short hill and cross the road. Pass Road Sign Rock on your right and follow a faint and winding social trail that drops downhill to the north into the woods, passing the highball Brown Glass Wall on your right. The trail will deposit you at the base of the Notlim Boulder after about 20 more yards.

1. Botsy's Way V5 sds ... Botsy Phillips, 2007

Begin from a sds matched on a jug on the left side of the little cave. A long tensiony RH move to a sloping edge and a crossover snag of the lip will get you into the easier topout moves. At least 2 pads (one to pad the meddling boulder behind you) are necessary.

2a&b. Northeast Corner V2 (a) / Project (b) ... FA: Unknown

From good starting holds on the arête (a) above the obvious cobble, step onto the large cobble, go for the lip maybe slide left a bit and roll over onto the ledge. A low start down on the cobble (b) seems possible.

3. Hollows Way V8 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975/6

Best for the grade on Flagstaff Mountain and one of the best irrespective of the grade. Start matched high in the stellar 15 foot overhanging and shallow seam up the middle of the north face and start up the thin holds in the seam. One of the best things about this problem is that numerous solutions exist. Have fun figuring out what works best for you!

4. Right Dihedral V2 ... FA: Unknown

Eight feet right of Hollows Way, use good matching crimps to stand atop the meddling boulder below and reach an incut RH flake. Lay the RH flake back to pull the bulge, veer into the slabby dihedral and make a committing reach move up high on thin feet. Props go out to whomever recently re-cleaned this line, making it climbable for the first time in at least 10 years. The potential landing area is about as bad as #3, but it pads up nicely with 3 or 4 pads.

5. Southwest Pebble Pull V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the left side of the thin slabby southwest face of the Notlim Boulder, dance up small pebbles up and slightly right to the topout on opposing underclings.

6a&b. Two Scoops V1 (a) / V4 sds (b) ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Start matched in edges in a head-high scoop (a) and pinch a second scoop to reach small edges and a handjam crack at the top. For the sds (b), begin on the lowest sharp crimps and use a powerful RF heel hook to pull out the overhanging bulge, establish in the first scoop and finish.

The Cookie Jar Miniguide

The Cookie Jar is yet another formation on Flagstaff Mountain with a long and sordid history. Essentially climbed-out in the early 1960's, almost all of the "problems" are proud, but fairly moderate in modern terms. Most folks know the almost unbelievable story about Ray Northcutt's tumble off Northcutt's Roll, which deposited him all the way down onto the road. Undeterred, he completed the climb shortly thereafter. Lesser known, however, is Larry Dalke's hushpuppy solo of this "problem." Talk about performance anxiety! Around 1960 - while Pat Ament was still a beginner, Bob Culp introduced him to Jackson's Pitch, doing it in a suit and tie during an after-work session. I certainly hope it wasn't summertime. Where: There are a couple of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park at the Flagstaff House Parking Area on the left 0.7 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Walk up the road another 1/10th of a mile until you arrive at the The Cookie Jar which is just off the road on the right.

1. The Rough One V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1969

Next to the road on the boulder just north of The Cookie Jar, pull a challenging east-facing bulge and ascend a low-angle slab and left-facing dihedral to the top. More intersting than it looks.

2. Northcutt’s Roll V3X ... FA: Ray Northcutt, late 1950’s
Ascend the slightly overhung east face to a bulge that deposits you on the slab up top. Be aware that if you choose to boulder this one out and fall, you could bounce and/or roll into the road. Toprope rehearsal is strongly recommended, but make sure you know how to properly use directionals to keep the rope in place.
3. Right Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown
About 6 feet right of Cookie Jar Crack, just before the hill falls away, climb up then left 25 feet up good edges to the top. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.

4. Left Shield V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the tall face with perfect edges just right of Cookie Jar Crack. There is an anchor up top if you want a toprope for rehearsal, etc.
5. Cookie Jar Crack VB ... FA: Unknown

Climb the obvious south-facing wide crack problem to the top. Good holds abound, but use the toprope anchor if you are unsure. Best VB problem on the mountain, although it is probably wouldn't be the best idea to expect a beginner to boulder this one out.
6. Jackson’s Overhang AKA Russian Nose V1 ... FA: Dallas Jackson (or Bob Culp), late 1950’s
A few feet left of Cookie Jar Crack, pull out the overhang on good holds to a ledge and pull a couple more moves to the top.
7. West Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start under the west overhang, move into a thin undercling and surmount the bulge onto the ledge.
8. Access Pitch VB ... FA: Unknown
The northwest corner has a dihedral and ledges that you can easily descend or get you to the top to set up that toprope.
9. Commitment V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
Appropriately named, make along reach to start and ascend the bulge on the right side of the north face above a boulder and altogether grim landing. Use the anchor up top if you like.
10. Jackson’s Pitch V2 ... FA: Dallas Jackson (or Bob Culp), late 1950’s
In the middle of the north face, surmount the low bulge starting on a good incut and undercling. The top’s easier, but the rock is a little questionable ... so tread lightly up high.
11. Kor’s Corner ... FA: Layton Kor, late 1950’s
Ten feet left of Jackson’s Pitch, climb the right-angling, somewhat chossy, crack system up and left to the top.

Dark Side South Miniguide

The hillside labyrinth known as The Dark Side is the collection of boulders lying between Nook's Rock and the Cloud Shadow Wall. This blog entry will cover the remainder of the Dark Side's problems not covered previously. Problems are numbered, beginning with problems that are about 30 yards south of Nook's Rock and ending with problems that are about 50 yards uphill from there. Like the rest of The Dark Side, the entire area is well shaded by trees and almost all of these problems face north so conditions can sometimes be quite good when it is hot elsewhere on the mountain. Where: There are a number of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of obvious problems on the right. When Nook's Rock comes into view, you are there. Dark Side South problems begin 30 yards south of Nook's Rock on the left side of the main social trail if you are walking back towards Cloud Shadow Wall. As you are heading uphill on this trail, there are three formations on the left, all within 20 yards of one another, ie: Stage Rock, The Jim Hall Boulder and The Pillar. There are two other formations on another fainter social trail/wash that parallels the main one about 10 yards to the north. To find these problems, walk 10 yards towards Nook's Rock from The Jim Hall Boulder and head directly uphill. Incuts Overhang comes first and is on the left. Continue uphill and Slot Overhang will appear in front of you imbedded in the hillside.

STAGE ROCK

1. Exit Stage Left V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Left of the Jim Hall Traverse is a small overhanging boulder. From a low sds underneath, start LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling. Make a couple moves up and slightly left, then make a long LH move out the left side of the overhang.
2. Exit Stage Right V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Start from the same sds as Exit Stage Left, with your LH on the lowest edge and RH on the undercling, crossover LH to the rail and match, then pull out the overhanging bulge slightly to the right.

3. Stage Rock Lip Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Unknown

I left this butt-dragger undone, but someone has done it since. Start low on the far right, lift your ass off the ground and traverse left a couple moves to topout with #2.
THE JIM HALL BOULDER
4. The Jim Hall Traverse V4 ... FA: Jim Hall, 1980’s
Begin down low on the far left and traverse right across the overhang about 30 feet. At the end of the overhang, pull up and over. Variation #1 - Subterranean V10: Start across #4. A little more than halfway through the regular traverse, drop down #7, slide right and finish up #8. A contrived, steep and pumpy linkup.

5. Jim Hall Left V0 ... FA: Unknown

There would be a lower start if the meddling boulder wasn't in the way, so just start on the jug rail and surf up and right a few moves to the top.

6. Jim Hall Right V0 ... FA: Unknown
Start at the cool red holds and zoom up and right to the top.

7. Battaglia's Backside V5 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007
Begin from a sds on a low RH crimp and LH sidepull and pull the bulge.
8. Battaglia's Bottom V7/8 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2007
This one begins from a sds just a couple feet right of #7. Start LH on the flake crimp from #7 and RH on a sidepull flake a little to the right. Make a very long LH move to the lip and fight hard to stay engaged, reset your feet, go RH to a toothy crimp and topout up and slightly right. Another possibly higher percentage way to do this involves first matching on the flake, then doing a RH move to a small crimp to start. Try both and see if either way works for ya. Variation #1 - Illumination V10 sds: A contrived Peter Beal variation done in 2008 that tacks a short traverse onto the front end and eliminates some holds on the back end. Begin on a smallish crimp down and left of the flake that has the starting holds for #7 and #8 . Get your LH up to a pinch near the lip, then slide right across the aforementioned flake into the start for #8. From there, go RH to the small obvious crimp, then bump your LH up pissy face holds until it arrives at the toothy crimp. The slopey pocket and the lip are off here. Topout up and slightly right. Probably more like V9 without the short introductory traverse.

THE PILLAR
9. The Pillar V2 ... FA: Unknown
Start low on opposing holds and climb out the underbelly of this phallic pillar to its end, then pull up and over.
INCUTS OVERHANG
10a&b&c. Deep/Deeper/Deepest Cuts V1/2 (a) / V4/5 sds (b) / V5 sds (c) ... FA: Unknown
STEEP and really fun with several different starts. Start standing on holds on/near the left arête OR using holds in the middle of the overhang (a), make a big move to a jug and then to another jug before a balancey rollover topout. For a more difficult challenge (b), begin from a sds on two obvious large holds just right of the arête and use both arête and face holds on your way to the top with #10a. To add a couple more even steeper moves (c), begin from a low sds on a good LH sidepull in a crack and a RH undercling jug all the way down at the very bottom of the arête.

11. Serenity Now V6/7 sds ... FA: Ben Collett, 2006

Begin from a sds with #10b and climb to the top without the benefit of the arête for either hands or feet. From the starting jugs, go to matching thin crimps, then to a complex RH grip before a big move to the first of the jugs that take you to the top. Cool sequence taking the arête out of play!!!

12. Valkyrie V5 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008

Start utilizing holds associated with a flake at chest height in the middle of the overhang. Pull on and go right to a bad sloper on the right arête. Reset your feet, maybe switch your LH to a small crimp, then go again LH to the high incut fighting the twisting swing and slide right at the top to some of the finest topout holds on Flagstaff Mountain.

13. Valhalla V7 sds ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2008

Begin from the same sds with #11 and do the first three moves with #11, then crossover LH to the sharp finger rail and establish on the starting holds for #12. Hang on, now do #12.

SLOT OVERHANG
14. Orca Trainer V6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
Uphill from Incuts Overhang and just south of the Cryptic Wall is Slot Overhang. Begin from a low sds with your LH on the arête and your RH in a crimpy pocket under the overhang. Surf the lip via multiple heel hooks all the way to topout next to #15. Pants and long sleeves recommended.
15. Slot Overhang V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds under the overhang on the large flake and climb straight out the overhang. Milk some slopers up top to reach for good finishing holds.

HOH OVERHANG

16. Hell of Holidays V3 sds ... FA: maybe Andy Mann, 2006

In the talus west of Slot Overhang, find this 45 degree overhang with beautiful lichen. Ascend the middle of the overhang from a high start just below where a confounding 1/4" expansion bolt protrudes from the rock. A couple high gravity moves on good rock will have you at the lip. A low start seems possible, if everything down lower and to the right wasn't so damn chossy.

One-Arm Rocks Miniguide

The One-Arm Rocks are a curiosity. Read any printed guidebook covering these problems if you don't know what I'm talking about. The most extreme example is a gymnastic move Rob Candelaria performed out a roof behind One-Arm Rocks in the late 1970's. Find it and try a reverse mantel (Pat Ament refers to this move as a front pull-over), where you begin sitting with your back to a flakey roof. Lean back and do a partial pull-up - lifting your ass off the ground - then throw your legs over your head onto the top of the boulder. I'm sure Rob and others did it with style, but to passersby that day I'm sure I looked like a fool just trying to repeat it. To me, the one-arm problems are silly endeavors, but decide for yourself. Today, most folks forego the circus tricks for moderate TWO-ARMED pulling on nice roadside boulders. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. One-Arm Rocks are located 15 yards east of the Crown Rock Parking Area, 30 feet from the road. You can't miss them.

1a&b. Smith's Face V2 (a) / V4/5 (b) ... FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (one-armed)
Probably use both arms. Right next to the tree, ascend the left boulder’s north face. For V2, start on a left hand crimp over with the tree and any number of right hand holds. For V4/5, begin on opposing underclings, perch on a high feet and attempt to uncoil. A one-handed send of this rig would be interesting to watch, although Richard Smith was purportedly 6’7.

2. One-Arm Flake V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Probably use both arms. Start just below the incut sidepull flakey arête right of Smith’s Face and climb to the top using both arms. This is another confounding one-arm problem, although it is possible the ground has eroded a bit and it used to be possible to start on the incut flake.
3. License Plate V6 sds ... FA: Marcelo Montalva, 2006
Use both arms. This is a tricky and powerful sds to the above problem that begins low with your LH on the sloping lip of the undercut and RH on an undercling sidepull about 18 inches off the ground.
4a&b. One Arm Overhang VB (a) / V1 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
For VB, ascend jugs on the bulging overhang up and right to the top using both arms (a). For a little more difficulty, a sds begins on thin crimps below (b). A one-arm ascent is fairly obvious ... thrutch up and right on jugs and rock over.
5. Right Hand Arête V3 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin awkwardly from a sds on the arête left of Right Hand Mantel and stay on the arête all the way to the top.
6. Right Hand Mantel V? ... FA: Pat Ament, 1966 (one-armed)
Use one arm for this description. This is the classic of the one-arm problems, mostly because of the ridiculous and famous photos of Pat manteling out the topout using his right hand. Reach high to a small RH crimp, pull on and thrutch to an good incut on the left side of the high rail which you will need to mantel out. I have no idea how to grade one-arm problems, hence the question mark for the grade.

7a&b. Right Hand Face V1 (a) / V3 (b) ... FA: Unknown

Use two arms. Start low with your LH on a good sidepull and RH in the slot (a) or begin awkwardly from a sds matched on the lowest obvious jug (b). From the LH sidepull and RH slot, make a long reach up and right to the starting crimp on #6 and head for the top. The best finish being straight up from the horizontal rail via a long reach.

8. Right of Passage V4/5 sds ... FA: maybe Chip Phillips, 2001

Use two arms. Begin from a sds on the far right with two LH fingers squeezed into a two-finger hole. Bump up to and establish your RH on the best part of the sloping rail, then reach way left to an undercling next to the slot. Throw your right heel onto the sloping rail and do a huge crossover to the RH starting crimp for #7 before heading for the top. Again, the best finish is to head straight up from the high horizontal rail via a long reach. Tricky with really cool moves.

9. Rising Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown

Use two arms. On the other side of the right boulder, surf the lip to the top and pull over.

Lower Great Ridge Miniguide

The central feature of the Lower Great Ridge is a 30-40' overhanging cliffband, much of which is unfortunately composed of rock of poor quality. The surrounding overhangs and boulders do, however, possess a number of moderate problems on better rock, most notably Big Overhang, which should be on any knowledgeable boulderer's short list of best V2s in Colorado. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of the road opposite the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and you will walk right up to the middle of the south face of the Pebble Wall. Turn left, head up the stairs and turn left again when you get to the top of the stairs. Ten yards later, when you round a corner, a social trail will head directly uphill along the cliffband. All but a couple of the problems in this miniguide are located a short jaunt up this hill. Two other moderate problems (#1 & 2) are located on a small formation 20 yards west of the cliffband.

TRIANGLES OVERHANG

1. Triangle Love V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
This formation is located about 25 yards west of the Lower Great Ridge proper and still has a bit of lichen up high on both problems. Begin from a sds under the right side of the overhang, and climb straight out the right side of the overhang to the top.

2. Love Triangle V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From the same sds as #1, slide left after the first move and climb out the left side of the overhang until you can join the finish with #1.

PROJECT WALL

3. Project

I sure wanted to do this beautiful line before I published this information ... oh well. Located at the lower terminus of the Lower Great Ridge, a lot of Flagstaff aficionados have looked at this line and wondered. To put it bluntly, the rock quality on this wall is quite poor. There is some better quality rock underneath the choss and a bit of aggressive cleaning on toprope might yield an impressive highball problem with sketchy but climbable rock. Initially, cleaning this on toprope is the only way to go on this one. The landing is poor and the last time I tried to climb this on TR, 15+ "holds" broke off or exploded in my hands.

OVERHANG WALL

4a & b. Southwest Face VB ... FA: Unknown

At the lower end of the main wall, choose a path up the first 15 to 20 feet (a or b), then find your way up really poor quality rock to the high seam and and better rock that leads to the top. The rock quality is poor until the end and falling would be a very bad idea from way up there. You've been warned.

5. Short Crack V1 ... FA: Unknown

The short crack that isn't. On the left side of an overhanging bulge, bust out the overhang (crux) near a seam to a stance then continue out the high easy dihedral to the top. I suppose the topout is really optional. Don't fall from up there.

6. Cove Crack V2 ... FA: Unknown

Start low in the short pin-scarred overhanging crack at the upper end of the main wall and pull the bulge up to a stance, where you can walk off to the left. A low-quality problem for several reasons. If someone sacks up and continues out the overhanging face above, well ... then we will have something.

BIG OVERHANG AREA

7. Right Boulder V0 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds on the far right of the right boulder, surmount the right boulder's overhang in the center.

8. Boulders Traverse V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown

From the same sds as #7 on the far left, surf the lip of the boulders to a topout on the far left.

9. Low Splitter V2 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds under the boulders at their juncture. Painfully jam your hands in there just right and bust out the overhang.

10. Left Boulder VB ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the far left of the left boulder, surf right a move or two and surmount the short overhang.

11. The Horn V1/2 ... FA: Unknown

Scramble up onto a ledge on the right and reach high out over space for the horn (reach-dependent) and ascend good holds up and over to the top finishing with #13.

12. Barbarosa V8? ... FA: Ian Irving, 2001/2

A dyno problem that I've been told is more difficult than Flagstaff Mountain's infamous dyno problem Double Clutch. Start on good holds at the bottom of the overhang including a good flake for the RH and dyno 6+ feet up and right to the horn (the starting hold for #11). Finish with #11.

13. Big Overhang V2 ... FA: Unknown

It's disappointing that we don't know who put this ultra-classic up, since it is among the best problems on the mountain and in contention for the best V2 in Colorado with the likes of Skyland's Right el Skyland and The Bog's Indian Ladder. Climb out the well-chalked flakes and incuts to the lip, get a high right foot and make a reach up and right to another jug and pull over.

14. Big Overhang Direct V3 ... FA: Unknown
Start up the overhang with #13, but pull directly out the lip without the benefit of the good right foot or the final jug out right over the lip. Maybe try this finishing variation for style points after doing the ultra-classic #13.

15. Big Overhang Indirect V3/4 ... FA: Unknown

Start up the overhang with #13 & 14, but slide left across the last rail on the face until you can make a reach up and left, finishing near or on the arête with #16.

16. The Spike V0 ... FA: Unknown

Start up the left side of the wall, arriving at a spike of rock half-way up. Use some features around the corner to stand on top of the spike continue up and over.

BALANCE OVERHANG

17. Balance Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown

Start on the shelf, perch up on the shelf and reach up and right out the overhang to the lip and pull over.

18. Balance Overhang Direct V? ... FA: Unknown

Start the same as #17, but use three smallish edges/pockets on the face to move up and left to the top and finish. The slabby boulder below makes a fall from the topout potentially dangerous, so place your pads and spotters strategically.

19. Unknown V? ... FA: Unknown

Again, start the same as #17 and #18, but traverse left (staying low) avoiding the slab behind you and any pads that might be sitting on top of it. A longish move to reach the arête and you're on your way to the top. Have your cat-like skills at the ready if you blow the easier topout above the slab. I'm pretty sure this one was established recently ... if you know who did it, have them contact me or tell me so I can pimp them for info.

Pumpkin Rock Miniguide

Pumpkin Rock is one of Flagstaff Mountains' largest boulders located in arguably one of its nicest settings. Although there are not a ton of established problems, potential remains for a couple more bold lines. Enjoy the colors and the view. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park at Panorama Point, which is 0.5 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain. Head up the trail through the meadow opposite the parking lot and Pumpkin Rock will be the first large formation uphill on the right. Do not cut uphill to Pumpkin Rock here (on social trails or blazing your own) in spite of evidence that others have. Stay on the main trail for about 100 more yards, passing the next boulder (Panorama Rock) on your right. After the next short switchback, you will find yourself with a nice view to the east, obstructed only by the immense west side of Pumpkin Rock.

1. Northeast Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown

Around the corner from Northwest Face, begin from a sds down low in the crack and climb the crack and face up onto the ramp.

2. Northwest Pin Scars V5/6ish / V5/6 X ... FA: Unknown

Start with #3, but after a couple moves veer directly left into the pin scars which arch left then up. At the arching seam about 17 feet up, either slide right and downclimb/jump to your pads OR slide left and continue up the line of least resistance with the last serious move at about 35 feet. The anchors up top allow you to easily rehearse the topout sequence before committing to the insecure V2ish sequence just before the top.

3. Northwest Face V1 / V2/3 X (a) / V2 / V2/3 X (b) ... FA: Unknown

On the northwest face, follow a series of holds as they diagonal up and right to a well-chalked rail 12 feet up (a) or start directly below the well-chalked rail and climb straight up to it via a long swing (b). From the rail, reach straight up and match a sloping shelf under the arching seam, then slide left to another set of good holds. Now, either reverse your moves back to the safety of the pads, or slide left a couple feet and head straight out the committing and sequential V2ish finish that's not over until you pull over the lip at ~35 feet.

4. West Face Left V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968

Begin on a ledge where the remnants of a red spray-painted peace symbol persist. Start up the beautiful tufa-like fin and veer left to a committing, but relatively easy, topout on incut edges and jugs. Regardless how many pads you have, it will be difficult to protect against injury if you fall anywhere near the top on this one.

5. The Yellow Hammer V6 ... FA: Lee Payne, 2006

Start up the fin on #4, but stay the course heading straight for the top above a landing that essentially requires that you do not fall.

6. West Face Right V2/3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968

Four feet right of #4, find a good starting edge near another unidentifiable red spray-painted symbol. From there, ascend the face straight to the top, with a number of pulls on nice crimps. This one is easier to protect than the last, but you need a few pads to get it right and you cannot fall wildly or unexpectedly near the top without expecting to get hurt.

7. The Velvet Cushion V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007

Start low on decent holds (one is a pocket) directly below the start for #6 and climb up into it.

8. Pumpkin Bulge V0 ... FA: Unknown

Reach edges from atop a step and do a couple of moves on good holds to surmount this short bulge up onto the ledge.

9. Pumpkin Overhang V1 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the funky overhanging dihedral to the top using mostly good holds once you get started.
10. Pumpkin Roof V2 ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using a deep sideways pocket down under the roof, climb out the steep west-facing overhang just left of the ramp leading to #11.

11. Top Notch V1 sds ... FA: Unknown

This is up on the second tier of Pumpkin Rock above the cave. Start low and pull out the south-facing overhanging notch onto the top slab. Be careful up there.

12. Smashing Pumpkins V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Start on the left side of the arête, almost in the shallow cave. Head up and left on dubious rock that will bring you to an obvious stopping point on a rail. I always wanted to pull the roof out of the cave, but never spent enough time sorting that out and the 45 degree angle slab below always scared the crap out of me. Have at it!!!

13. Funky Undercling V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

A few feet left of South Face Pockets with the cave on your left, ascend funky holds up to the topout ledge. The key for me was using a hard-to-believe slopey LH undercling to reach high and right for an edge and the top, but find your own sequence that works. In any event, this is a NICE problem.
14. South Face Pockets V1 ... FA: Unknown
Five feet left of the short arête, climb this nice face where 3 small fingertip pockets precede a topout on a ledge.
15. Southeast Corner V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds on the east side of the southeast arête, do 4 or 5 thrutchy moves up onto the low-angled ramp. Much harder than - but just as crappy as - it looks.

Rear End Rock Area Miniguide

This area can be described as a small cluster of abrasive blobs located a hard stone's throw from Cloudshadow Wall. Two of these blobs are worth clambering around upon and - when viewed from the south - one bears a remarkable resemblance to a well-rounded posterior while the other resembles a dead elephant. Rear End Rock is smaller and possesses a few problems, one of which is not to be missed. The Dead Elephant is well featured, larger and lower-angled, yielding a number of more moderate lines. Both are worth visiting someday when the scene at Cloudshadow is more than you can bear or you want to play on something different. FWIW, I named all the problems on The Dead Elephant, although I was probably only first for a couple of the stupid sit-starts. Where: The best way to approach these boulders - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn. Step over the guardrail and drop down the steps for 15 yards toward Cloud Shadow Wall. As the Cloud Shadow Wall comes into view, turn back to your right and walk 25 yards west-southwest to a small boulder nestled in the pines ... this is Rear End Rock. The stuff worth climbing faces south, but there is one easy line on the west side. The Dead Elephant is the next boulder downhill next to the East Flagstaff Trail. Worthwhile problems can be found on the south and west sides right off the trail.

REAR END ROCK
1. West Wall VB ... FA: Unknown
A vertical warm-up problem before venturing around the corner to the skin-shredding bulge problems on the south side.
2. Hip Check V5/6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Begin from a sds on opposing edges very low on the corner. Work your way up small sharp features to a blind RH slap into a dish way up and right on the slab. Work your feet up onto the ledge, pull onto the slab using small features and dance to the top.
3a&b. Left Bulge V4 (a) / V6 (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967 / Direct Start: Christian Griffith/Harrison Dekker, early/mid 1980's
This problem - although relatively short in stature - is pretty damn good. Climb the bulge staying left of the seam. The trick is where to start. The lower you move your hands to start, the harder it gets. The old school V4 start (a) utilized a cheatstone to access holds at the lip. Get there today by stacking pads or Gill-starting off a good RH crimp up to a decent LH gaston at the lip. Once there, match, smack up and left to a LH sloper where judicious use of your feet will allow you to reach for higher crimps and the top. For the V6 (b), start LH on the huge slopey undercling and RH on the aforementioned crimp. Now do the dynamic move to the lip, fighting to stay engaged and finish. See #4 for the low start.

4. Tongue in Cheek V9 ... FA: maybe Marcelo Montalva, 2006

The low start to #3. The obvious thing to do for the low start is to begin matched on the slopey undercling and pull on really hard, going RH to the crimp if you can and then doing #3b. An inobvious way around this is begin LH on the slopey undercling and RH on a LOW crimp undercling way down on the face that requires that you use entirely different feet. It is still very tricky to get your feet on and powerful to go get the RH crimp, but when the hopelessness of starting on the sloped undercling of doom hits you ... check it out.
5. Rear-End Rock Jam V3/4 ... FA: Pat Ament, mid 1960's
Start in the crack under the small overhang. Reach high up into the sharp, awkward and flaring seam and painfully head for the top. Consider taping up. Seriously. I'm not kidding.
6a&b. Gluteus V6/7 (a) / Gluteus Maximus V7 sds (b) ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2006 / Sit-Start: Chip Phillips, 2006
Ascend the bulge using features right of the seam only. For Gluteus (a), begin under the overhang on opposing high sidepulls at arms length and have your full bag of tricks ready. The first move is an unreal toe-hook layback maneuver to a sloper that will blow you away. From there, use awkward crimps and pimp the tiniest of pebbles right of the seam to the top. If you are bored, add a contrived sds (b) that off-routes the huge feet out right. The 2 or 3 moves don't add that much difficulty, but your precision on the higher moves will suffer.
7a&b. Project
Start under the overhang on the right side and pull straight out the right side of the bulge onto the slab. Weird, tricky and hard. If you can do that, add the contrived sds for full value.

THE DEAD ELEPHANT

8. Tail Feathers V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the west side of the blob - about where one would expect to find the elephant's tail - start on abrasive edges and battle through a thin section for the feet before it eases up at the top.

9. Elephantitis VB ... FA: Unknown

On the southwest side, start on high edges, make a long pull into the remnants of a well-featured and large solution pocket and continue up and over.

10. Hind Quarter V0 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start high on matching edges (a) or add the sds (b) which begins down and slightly left on a small RH edge and LH sloper. Get into the highest jugs, then make a long pull up the slab to the left to a pocket-like feature in a seam and top it out.

11. Mortal Wounds V2/3 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds on 2 obvious matched edges. Bump to better holds without dabbing, reengage the feet and reach for better holds. All that's left is pulling a bulge onto a slab that leads to the top. Starting on any other holds makes this VB.

12. White Hunter VB ... FA: Unknown

Start below the remnants of another high solution pocket. Climb straight up to it and pull up and over.

13. Tusk V0 ... FA: Unknown

The best line on the boulder. Just left of the rounded southeast corner, start via incut crimps and pull up to attain a stance. Now dance your way up the vertical bulge to the top. Could be a nice tall line for beginners, but not if they blow the topout.

Central Great Ridge Miniguide

The Central portion of the Great Ridge is comprised primarily of the Upper Y Wall and Three of a Kind Wall. A lot of folks think of these walls as traversing locales (and the traverses are pretty damn good), but in my opinion this is one of the best and most concentrated zones on Flagstaff Mountain for good up-problems in the V0 to V6 range, many of which are gloriously-good highballs. There's not much for the resident hardman who solely chases numbers, but those of us who have spent afternoon/evening training sessions in the Spring and Fall on Flag with friends, beer and headlamps know exactly what I'm talking about ... getting your tips ready for that next roadtrip and/or enjoying some time after work/school with your buddies pulling down on fun (and committing) up-problems just a few minutes from home. Where: While you can certainly approach this zone by hiking up from the Crown Rock Parking Area, the shortest approach is to park in the pullout at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain). Your car will be facing First Overhang. Walk towards it, but turn right and head directly downhill. The large west-facing Upper Y Wall will come into view in 1-2 minutes. If you continue downhill to the right (south), the west-facing Halloween Spire and Three of a Kind Wall will come into view after 30 additional seconds on the trail. Enjoy what is surely one of my favorite zones on the mountain.

UPPER Y WALL

1. Far Left Seam VB ... FA: Unknown
On the far left end, ascend the short flaring crack between the right-leaning pillar and the main wall.

2. Left Arête V1 ... FA: Unknown

Begin on the rounded arête on the left side of the wall and surf laybacks and edges on the arête to a high finish on positive slopers.

3. Left Side V1 ... FA: Unknown
Almost at the left end of the wall, dynamically bust out the bulge on good edges and jugs, joining the arête and #2 for the high finish on slopers.

4. Center Left V3 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Begin below the small fir tree growing out of the wall 12 feet up and - with the left talus boulder directly behind you - climb a thin section on small holds to establish on the face left of the tree. Continue up and slightly left on face holds, committing to the finish with #2 and #3 at the top.

5. Center Right V1 ... FA: Bob Culp, early 1960’s
Start below the huge embedded cobble and fir tree growing 12 feet up. With the right talus boulder behind you, do a big move to an incut edge. Continue up to the ledge staying right of the tree.
6. Vision Quest V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2008

Just right of #5 is an obvious line that required extensive cleaning of friable edges to make it climbable. What remains is proud and fun, although the large meddling talus boulder below certainly takes away from the problem. The best holds are down low and the dynamic crux to a good hold comes quick. After that, a series of thin edges take you on a beeline to the top. Due to the talus boulder below, which presumbly explains why this line has been ignored, it is virtually impossible to fully guard against injury if you fall, so don't fall.

7. Merge Left V5/6 ... FA: Unknown

Find the thin seam that starts 10 feet up. Down and left of this is an obvious incut. Start matched there and reach/swing/dyno up and right to the sloping shelf just right of the seam. Once you've matched the shelf, another long reach and/or mantel is waiting for you as you pull up top.

8. Merge Right V4 ... FA: Unknown
Start on good holds next to #9, but get the last incut edge on the ovarhang with your RH and swing hard up and left to the sloping shelf just right of the thin seam that starts 10 feet up. Once you match the shelf, a long reach and/or mantel will allow you to attain the top.
9. Y-Left V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start next to #8, but climb straight up, pulling over onto the ramp on good edges near the top of the left arm of the “Y.” A proud and committing finish is possible out the high bulge, but I have no idea how hard it is. If you try it, do not fall or break any o fthe suspect-looking flakes.

10. Y-Crack Left V1 ... FA: Unknown
Begin at the base of “Y Crack” and surf the left arm of the Y up and left. When you reach the finish for #9, pull over.
11. Splitting the Y V2 ... FA: Unknown

Begin at the base of “Y Crack." Stand up in the dihedral via a RH layback to split the Y and climb straight up and over three bulges for a total 30+ feet of climbing to the top. This one is really good highball fun.

12. Y-Crack Right V1 ... FA: Unknown

Begin at the base of “Y Crack" and surf edges on the right arm of the Y. Join #13 on your way to top out with #14.

13. Y-Right Two V1 ... FA: Unknown

Just right of the obvious “Y Crack” and left of #14 climb up and slightly right on juggy incut flakes. When you reach the right-arching arm of the Y, it gets a little thin before a long reach to top out with #14.

14. Y-Right V0 ... FA: Unknown
No doubt about it, one of the top 3 V0s in Colorado. Climb the awesome line of incuts that take you 20 feet off the deck to a slopey topout ledge near the top of the right arm of the “Y.” Spectacular V0 fun.
15. Right Side Overhang X-Over V2 ... FA: Unknown
Start 3 feet right of #14 and ascend numerous incuts and edges up to a long RH pull to a LH pinch/crimp. Twist up and right off this pinch/crimp to grab the top. For a dose of adventure/stupidity that I do not recommend, it is possible to head slightly left out the high overhang on loose flakes. Again, this is not recommended.

16a&b. Right Side Overhang Reach V1 / V1/2 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin on holds in the mini-dihedral at head height (a) or from an obvious sds below (b) that doesn't add much difficulty (b). Do a couple moves up good edges to a long reach to finish with #15. For a dose of adventure/stupidity that I do not recommend, it is possible to head slightly left out the high overhang on loose flakes. Again, because the rock quality is terrible, this is not recommended.

17a&b. Direct Mantel V2/3 / V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Left of Pinch Bulge is an obvious sloping shelf. Start matched on the sloping shelf (a) and pull out the bulge, with a majority of folks skipping the mantel altogether and opting to use a good crimper or two just above the shelf to attain the top. A true 2-handed mantel on this shelf is substantially harder, probably V5 or harder depending on your manteling skillset. For full value on the sds below (b), go directly from the the sds holds to the mantel shelf (although the grade for this move is presumably reach-dependent) and continue to the top. Variation #1 - Upper Y Double Dyno V5/6: From the same sds, get both feet on and double dyno to the sloping ledge and continue to the top. A double dyno followed by a 2-handed mantel would be an excellent show of style.

18a&b. Pinch Bulge V3 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start standing, matched on the incut flakey edge (a), or from a sds shared with #s 16b, 17b and 19 below (b) and swing up the the flakey edge. Match, then reach LH up and pinch the next slopey corner with your LH and move to the top using any of a vast variety of sequences to reach the top essentially following the vertical seam/crack to the ledge. Very popular.

19. Tall Man Shutdown V7 sds ... FA: Unknown
A difficult problem to describe and a good contrivance at best, but here goes ... From the same sds as #s 16b, 17b and 18b, swing up to the incut flakey edge. Once you've matched the flakey edge, only handholds right of the vertical seam are on, so crossover with your LH to a thin almost imperceptible edge on the highest sloping corner just right of the seam. FWIW, I get it as a pinch. From here, go up and right for the top using bad edges and slopers on the right face. It may be easier to be shown this problem, so ask around. Really cool moves, particularly when you have to uncoil from the crossover.

20a&b. Thin Crimp Bulge V4 (a) / V6 (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start on two small but decent layaways a couple feet right of the incut flakey edge. Move up to very thin but good crimpers just left of a tempting shelf. For V4 (a), get your right foot up on a good edge/horn and blast for the top without the benefit of the high shelf out right. For V6 (b), off-route both the high shelf and the good foot edge/horn that is so useful for the V4 version.

21. The Far Right is All Wrong 7/8 sds ... FA: Sacha Halenda, 1998

Begin from a sds just right of the sit-start holds for #16b, 17b, 18b and 19 and down below the start holds for #20a&b, and go up to the two decent layaways that represent the start holds for #20. Now finish up #20b, off-routing the high right shelf and the good foot edge/horn. I know ... contrived, but the rock is pretty good here making it worthy of inclusion.

22. Upper Y Traverse V3/4 (a) / V5/6 (b) ... FA: Unknown

This traverse is presumably second only to the Monkey Traverse in popularity. Traverse the west face of the Upper Y Wall from the very far right to the very far left, finishing up one of the VFUN lines on the far left (#1-3). I like to finish up #2, but pick your own poison and hang on 'til the end. For the easier version (a), everything is on for the first 30 feet or so. For the harder version, stay on the lower edges and slopers until you join the higher and easier line in the shallow dihedral in the middle of the wall. Doing this back and forth adds pump and depending on your choice of holds and how and where you choose to finish probably adds 1 to 3 V grades.

23. The Fin VB sds ... FA: Unknown

This problem has been unknowingly seen by thousands of folks looking for a quick place to pee. If you are still interested, look in the alcove around to the right from the main Upper Y Wall. Begin from a sds on the horizontal fin and pull up and over this short beginner problem.

HALLOWEEN SPIRE AREA

24. Project V?

A direct start to #25 that is obvious but presumably passed on due to the horrific landing that #25 possesses and a hard couple of moves getting into the aforementioned problem.

25. Happy Halloween V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Start on the right side of the tall black, orange and yellow spire and make a long reach left into the seam. From there, boldly climb to the top above a positively horrific landing area. Add a direct start (#24) for a presumed first ascent.

26. Warm-Up Traverse V0 ... FA: Unknown

On the left side of the fir tree, about 20 yards left of Little Sloper Boy, traverse left across juggy holds. Back and forth is even more fun.

THREE OF A KIND WALL

27a&b. Little Sloper Boy V1 (a) / V3 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

From good holds a few feet left of The Face, move up to the good edge 10 feet up, then trend slightly left up the face to the top. An awkward sds (b) begins on thin crimps below and adds a bit of difficulty.

28. Sloper Boy –> Face Link-Up V1 ... FA: Unknown

Start up Little Sloper Boy. From the incut edge 10 feet up, slide right 5 feet to the big pocket on The Face and top that out. Impure wandering on moderate and fun terrain.

29a&b. The Face V3 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

The stand (a) is a classic straight-up face problem that starts with your RH gastoning on the edge reattached with gobs of epoxy in the late 1990's. After the first 3 or 4 moves, the problem eases up substantially for fun pulling to a toput at about 22 feet. For the sds (b), begin from a sds matched on the obvious jug below and bust hard right to the epoxied edge before continuing to the top. This problem is constantly chalked and its popularity, for good reason, is no secret.

30a&b. The Rib V4 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Begin via either start on #29. From the horizontal edge about 10 feet up, zoom up and right below the obvious vertical rib, continuing to the top laying back the rib with your left hand. Two crimps right of the prow higher up, one sporting a tooth, precede the highball and exhilarating finish.
31. The Rash V6/7 ... FA: Greg Jones, late 1990’s
Start LH on the epoxied hold at the base of #29. Move up into a LH gaston undercling, then to a RH edge/sloper before pulling the bulge up and slightly left. This goes without using the very tempting vertical rib up high that is so useful and reassuring on #30 by pimping small crimps and edges on the slabby face, but to say the rib is "off" takes away from the problem and the climber risks a serious rash AND MORE if something blows up there. Be safe!

32a&b. The Chisel Route V6/7 (a) / The Jizzler V7 (b) ... FA: Christian Griffith,1980’s & Colin Lantz, late 1990's

For The Chisel Route (a), start LH on the epoxied hold at the base of #29 and RH on a thin crimp. Move up into a LH gaston undercling, then up to a couple of edges/slopers before a long RH move up and right to a hidden sloper and the highball finish next to/in the seam. The Jizzler (b) off-routes the epoxied hold at the start. Get into the gaston from a truly crappy set of crimps and ascend #32a. The grades on these may be a bit sandbagged as holds have broken, weathered and crumbled over the last 10 years. Bring a whole slew of pads, repeat them and tell me what YOU think .

33. Kaptain Face V5 ... FA: Neal Kaptain, 1985

Begin matched on a funky sidepull/undercling at the bottom of a small left-facing dihedral and battle up to the good edge 10 feet up. From the edge, climb straight out the high bulge using hard-to-see sloping edges and an obvious high tooth to the top. If you must ask, the round pebble out right that is the namesake of the next problem is off.

34a&b. Round Pebble AKA The Culp Route V4 (a) / V3 (b) ... FA: Bob Culp, early 1960's

There are 3 starts for this one, the first two of which are described here (see the next problem for the third). For V4 (a), begin as for #33 matched on the sidepull/undercling and battle (crux) up to the good edge 10 feet up. For V3 (b), start on opposing sidepulls and do dynamic move up to the good edge. Now, reach right to the round pebble, then to a layaway in the bottom of the slot. Once you can stand up and layback the slot with your RH and get a good pebble on the face up high with your LH, it is pretty much over. Bring lots of pads if in doubt.

35. Breashears' Round Pebble V6 ... FA: David Breashears, mid 1970’s

A harder variation to #34 that avoids the good LH starting holds well as the good edge out left 10 feet up, ascending the very thin right seam and miniscule edges on the face straight up to the round pebble and then to the top.

36. The Red Streak V5/6 ... FA: Skip Guerin, late 1980’s/early 1990’s

Below the obvious red streak, just right of #35, get established on jugs with smallish feet, go RH to the first thin crimp up on the face, high-step, then go big with your LH to the next edge. From there, paddle up small stuff on low angle terrain up high to top out. The lip on LH edge broke off in 2005 making this one a tad harder, but it still goes and it is still glorious.

37. Colin’s Thing V6 ... FA: Colin Lantz, 1993/4

A variation to #36, but a really good one worthy of a separate entry. After establishing on the starting jugs and small feet, crossover with your LH to the first thin crimp, get your feet up and go RH to a tempermental sloper up and right that you need to get almost perfectly. Reach back hard left to rejoin #36 and head for the top on smaller holds with easier moves.

38. High Flake AKA Crystal Delight V3 ... FA: Unknown

From low and obvious starting holds below the finish for #44, move straight up to the flake system probably via a dynamic move. From the top of the flake system, regroup, then reach up and right for a knobby crystal, step right and carefully dance to the top. Really fun highballin'.

39. Slippery Slope V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Where #44 (Three of a Kind Traverse) starts to rise up the juggy flake system, pull on good holds and do a dynamic move up to a sloping edge on the bulge above. Match the sloping edge and discover a very subtle sloping lip. Now do a sketchy mantel or perch move up onto the sloping lip, before continuing to the top. There is a half-moon crimp and a pebble up there to assist with the finish. Be aware that although I've never taken a bad fall on this one, it could have happened every time if my foot blew once I committed to the move up onto the lip. At least a couple pads and/or spotters are highly recommended.

40. Center Line V1/2 ... FA: Unknown

About 15 feet left of The Groove, start next to a thin vertical seam lacking obvious holds. Climb past 2 small embedded pebbles on your way to the top.

41. Ledge System VB ... FA: Unknown
About 8 feet left of The Groove, climb good edges and slopers to the top.

42. The Groove VB ... FA: Pat Ament, mid-1970’s (one-armed)
Climb the obvious wide slot to the top. Doing it with one-arm is optional - ha!

43. Bulging Slab V0 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the slab between the start of Three of a Kind Traverse and The Groove to the top.

44. Three of a Kind Traverse V3 ... FA: Unknown

Surely the best traverse for the grade on the mountain. Traverse right to left from the far right (south) end of the wall to the well-chalked flake system that ends about 12 feet up in the middle of the wall, then continue to the top on #38 for style points.

Tutorial Rock Miniguide

Although only 20 yards from the car, no evidence of prior climber traffic was visible when I started fooling around on this block in 1999. Despite it's proximity to the road, it remains seldomly visited and a nice place for a lightning quick session. It is also a fine place to bring beginner and/or novice climbers to introduce them to the concept of bouldering (hence the name) without the scene that you might find at some of the other spots on the mountain that some apparently believe are appropriate for true beginners. The up-problems are short and safe, the landings are relatively soft (not necessarily requiring a pad) and there are a number of easier 1 to 3-move up problems that some of my beginner/novice climbing friends have played on and seemingly enjoyed at various times over the past 8 years. There are also a few traverses that share the first 10 moves or so, but differ in where they finish. Essentially, the farther left you travel, the harder they get. Check 'em out. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.7 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park in the dirt lot on the right side of Flagstaff Road about 75 yards past the Crown Rock Parking Area (which is on the left). An access trail, constructed circa ~2002/3, cuts across the hillside from the parking lot past Tutorial Rock on its way to joining the East Flagstaff Trail. More folks have played on these problems since this access trail was constructed, but this remains a chill place to come and do a few warmups or harder traverses. Stop there for a few minutes of fun.
1. Class Dismissed VB sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Begin on the far left from a sds and ascend jugs up the somewhat sharp, short and easy face. Be kind to the little bonsai pine tree growing in a crack just right of the finish.

2. Teacher's Pet V2/3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Begin from a sds on obvious opposing holds just a couple feet right of #1 and bust left to finish left of the bonsai with #1. Harder than it looks.

3. Dunce's Cap V2/3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000

Begin from a sds on obvious opposing holds with #2 and climb to the top.

4. Lesson’s Over V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Start left of the crack matched on a brick. From slopers, make a big LH move to a sharp sloper, then pull again to the lip and over. The incut corner hold up and left from the start is off.

5. Layback Lesson V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Start right of the crack from a sds. Move into the good layaways and layback to the top and pull over. Obviously, everything left of the seam is off.
7. Heel Hook Lesson V2 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999

Start matched on the left side of the low sloping rail. Now, get your right heel up on the far end of the rail and bump your way up crimper rails until you can turn that heel into a toe and pull over the top.
7. Lunge Lesson V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Where a huge rail used to be, start matched on an edge next to a broken embedded pebble. With grim feet, make a big move up and left to a good hold on the lip and pull over.
8. Rockover Lesson V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 1999
Start on two protruding cobbles just over the lip, throw a high heel and roll over the top.
9. Tutorial Traverse V4 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Traverse left to the top of #5 from a start on the very far right. Surf the lip all the way.

10. Graduation Traverse V6 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Traverse left to the top of #5 from a start on the very far right. Surf the lip like #9, but drop down to the rail after the 2 protruding cobbles and continue left until you can finish up #5. A huge somewhat loose rail used to reside across this lower finish, but it broke or was pried off sometime in 2002 making it a grade or 2 harder.

11. Extra Credit Traverse V8 ... FA: Steve Hong or Stevie Damboise, mid 2000's

Traverse left across the entire formation topping out with #2. Surf the lip via #9 and drop down to the rail with #10. When you reach the seam, continue left (staying low) until you can top out with #2. Pumpy and and technical with several hard moves on sharp holds thrown in for fun at the end.

North Rocks Miniguide

Sitting between the Pebble Wall Boulder and the Red Wall Boulder are the North Rocks, two smaller side-by-side boulders that are home to a bunch of easier warmups, a couple moderates, a few newer challenges and a Holloway one-move testpiece that may have been repeated by Charlie Bentley. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of the road opposite the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and you will walk right up to the middle of the south face of the Pebble Wall Boulder. Turn right, heading towards the Red Wall Boulder. North Rocks will be on your left after 10 yards.

1. West Face Left VB ... FA: Pat Ament, late 1960’s/early 1970’s (one-armed)
Just left of Southwest Arête, use small edges to reach the top and pull over. Ament managed this with one arm.
2. Southwest Arête V3 ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1975
Climb the outstanding and obvious arête on the southwest corner of the upper boulder.
3. Drill Pig AKA No Name V? ... FA: Jim Holloway, 1976
Just right of the arête is this lesser-known and possibly unrepeated Holloway problem that begins with a bad left hand crimp and small right hand mono. From there, go straight for the top without the benefit of the arête. It is rumored that Charlie Bentley repeated this problem. Variation #1 - Unnamed V7: Start and finish in the same place, but do the hard move with the benefit of a left foot/heel scum around the arête.

4. West Arête VB ... FA: Unknown

An easy problem that ascends the arête on the downhill boulder without using the uphill boulder.

5. Slippery Cobbles V1/ V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
Ascend this thought-provoking slippery problem located behind the tree on the lower boulder. A low sds on crimps adds a bit of worthwhile fun.
6. West Face V1 ... FA: Unknown
Above the steps is a good sidepull edge. Climb to the top from there.
7. Southwest Face V1 ... FA: Unknown
Just right of the last problem, reach high for starting holds, do some fancy footwork to get established on the wall and go to the top.

8. Sweet Nothings V8/9 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2008

From an inobvious sds on a LH sidepull and RH crimp move up and slightly left on small stuff to join #7 on your way to the top.

9. Read Between the Lines V7/8 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2008

From a sds on the same LH sidepull used on #8 and a RH undercling sidepull crimp just around the bulge to the right, bump LH to a crimp, then bump your RH 3 hard times until you get the decent sidepull and can move up to the top from there.
10. Southern Bulge V2 / V4/5 ... FA: Unknown

For V2, start on a LH sidepull and high RH knob, slap the top and pull over. For V4/5, start with your RH a little lower with both hands on opposing sidepulls.
11. Southern Sun V8 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004
Do Southern Bulge from a burly awkward sds on opposing sidepull/undercling crimps. I jokingly refer to the crux as being awkwardly positioning your body so you can actually pull your ass off stacked pads.
12. East Side Lower Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
Traverse right on jugs across the east face of the lower boulder. Finish up the arête with #14.
13. East Face of Lower Block V0 ... FA: Unknown
Start at a jug and ascend the center of the east face to the top.

14. East Arête VB ... FA: Unknown

An abbreviated version of #12 that skips the traverse and starts down below the arête and heads for the top. Do #12 instead. It's a really nice moderate/warmup.
15. East Side Upper Traverse V2 ... FA: Unknown
Traverse left to right 20 feet across the heavily cobbled east face of the upper boulder. Don’t stop until you pull around the bulging corner on the right and end up on top.

Top Shelf Miniguide

The Top Shelf is located one tier above the First Overhang Ridge. Don't be confused by the name, these problems are far from "top shelf." Flagstaff afficianados can have fun with the Moon Rock problems for a few minutes and that's about it. When I cleaned Moon Rock up in 2001, I referred to it as the Frozen Mud Wall. It's better now, but not by much. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park in the pullout on the right side of the road at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge. Your car will be facing First Overhang no more than 30 yards away. Walk past First Overhang, Pinnacle Colada, Tombstone Spire, Loose Flake Spire, Face Wall and High Boulder, all on your right. When you arrive at The North End (again - on your right), turn left (uphill) and walk 20 yards up behind the huge slab. Moon Rock will be obvious and on your left. The last problem is 30 yards further south, right before you can head straight downhill back to the car.

MOON ROCK

1. Moon Left VB sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
From a sds on the far left side of the overhang, climb straight up to a pebble-pulling finish.
2. High Moon Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, move up then traverse right across the highest shelf and topout above #6.
3. Middle Moon Traverse V0 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, move slightly up then traverse right across the middle line of holds to topout with #6.
4. Low Moon Traverse V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, traverse right across a low line of holds avoiding the lowest ass-dragging crux towards the end by angling up just a bit. Go to the top with #6.
5. Rocky Mountain Ass-Dragger V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2003
Begin from a sds on the far left with #1, traverse right across the lowest line of holds staying very low for a technical crux (with your back just above the ground or a thin pad) that leads to the starting holds for #6. When you get there, get your feet underneath you and head for the top via #6.
6. Moon Right V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
From a sds on small holds on the right, climb out the overhang at its apex.
BIT OF FUN WALL
7. Last Bit of Fun VB ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
Approximately thirty yards right of the Moon Rock problems, climb good holds for 13 feet up the right side of the face near the arête.

Pebble Wall Boulder Miniguide

The Pebble Wall Boulder is home to a slew of finicky pebble-pimping up-problems that will test your patience and pinching power. In addition, there are a couple traverses that require a couple days worth of learning just so you can start trying them in earnest. Only a handful of people have perservered long enough on these endurance nightmares to taste the sweetness of victory. Do you have what it takes to get Over Yourself? Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of the road opposite the Crown Rock Parking Area. Stay right at the first split and you will walk right up to the middle of the south face of the boulder and the prominent features that give the boulder it's name. Problems are numbered counterclockwise, beginning with problems on the north side which face the Frontside of the Amphitheater.

1a&b. North Face VB (a) / V4/5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start with #2 on pebbles, but trend left under the overhang to pull the lip via an easy topout on good holds. Add a low sds from down and right for a harder challenge.

2a&b. North Overhang V3/4 (a) / V5 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Climb out the left side of the pebble-covered overhang. Add a low sds from down and right for a harder challenge.

3a&b. The Cobble Problem V6/7 (a) / V7 sds (b) ...FA: T.J. Burchfield, 2006

Climb out the right side of the overhang. After pulling on, move into opposing large cobble underclings and topout directly above on much smaller features. A sds that begins down and right adds a couple moves and a bit of difficulty.

4a&b. Project V?/V? sds

Begin with #3a or 3b, but veer right from the cobbles to the arête via a heel hook to gain the top. The sds begins directly below. Seems reasonably doable until ...

5. West Overhang V3 ... FA: Richard Smith, mid 1960’s

Start low using an edge and a three-finger pocket and ascend the corner just right of the overhang using several protruding pebbles. This is a brilliant problem, but you will need several pads and/or spotters to protect this adequately.

6. Southwest Corner V1 ... FA: Pat Ament, early 1960’s

Start at a fin on the right side of a large pod located 6 feet right of #5 and climb up and slightly left to finish.

7. Southwest Face V5 ... FA: Bob Horan, early 1980’s

Seven feet right of #6, ascend pebbles straight up to a thin tricky finish above an uneven landing with railroad tie steps and retaining wall stones. At least one useful pebble has broken off, making the finish for this one harder.

8. Sweet Pea V3/4 ... FA: Jim Michael, 1970’s

Start the same as #9 above some exposed tree roots, but grab the highest pebble on the face with your right hand and move up and left to finish.

9. The High Step V3/4 ... FA: Bob Poling, mid 1960’s

Start two feet left of #9 above some exposed tree roots. Do a high-step to start, then climb pebbles to edges over the top.

10. Direct South Face V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, mid 1960’s

Start above a railroad tie 5 feet left of #11. Ascend pebbles to good edges over the top.

11. Crystal Mantel V3 sds ... FA: Unknown

These days, everyone begins with the obvious sds on the large flake. Move up to the large crystal five feet up. Possibly use a LH mantel to climb up and slightly right to the lip. This problem has also been accomplished via a RH mantel (Pat Ament - mid 1960's) and a 2-handed mantel (Jim Holloway - mid 1970's).

12. The Zombie Traverse V9 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2007

From the same sds as #11, traverse right through the corridor, round the corner and continue right, staying low, until you can finish across #18.

13. Pebble Traverse V10/11 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975

Begin matched with #14 at the 2- and 3-finger pockets and traverse left across the entire south face without the height restrictions of #15. The few useful holds that are above 7 feet are pretty much only helpful for short rests. The successful boulderer will arrive at low matching edges just left of the start for #5 after about 60 moves. It's over when you can sit down on the rock. In 2005, Ted Lanzano got a rare repeat of this problem.

14. Over Yourself V11/12 ... FA: Skip Guerin, early 1990’s

Begin matched with #13 at the 2- and 3-finger pockets and traverse left across mostly pebbles using no holds more than 7 feet up. You will arrive at low matching edges just left of the start for #5 after about 60 moves. It's over when you can sit down on the rock. This endurance nightmare finally saw a repeat by Rob Candelaria in 2002. In 2005, Will LeMaire got the third ascent and then upped the ante by continuing around the corner and topping out #2b.

13. The Original Route / Classic Undercling V1 ... FA: Unknown

A few feet right of #11, climb up into a two-handed palms-up undercling underneath the flake at the top.

16. Southeast Corner V1/2 ... FA: Unknown

Ascend mostly pebbles and pull over without the undercling/flake out left. Beware of the back-breaking boulder directly behind you as you pull over.

17a&b. Southeast Face V1 (a) / V4/5 sds (b) ... FA: Unknown

Start standing and do one tricky/powerful move. Once you are established on the face, fun pebble-pulling gets you to the top. For the sds immediately below, start hanging with your LH clinging to a crimp in the shallow hueco and RH on a bad grip under the lip. Battle up to establish on the face and do the much easier finish.

18. Strege Problem V6 sds ... FA: Bart Strege, 2001/2

From the same sds as #17b, zoom right on slopers and painful pebbles for 10 feet staying low to topout with #19.

19. Northeast Mantel V2 sds ... FA: Unknown

Start low on good holds, punch right to a shelf and pull up and over via a mantel.

First Overhang Ridge Miniguide

If you are driving up Flagstaff Road, this collection of boulders sits one tier up from The Great Ridge, running from south to north over a distance of 200 yards. Not much has changed in a couple decades here, but a handful of problems are new, most notably Loman's Highball and Last Overhang. Numerous problems on the ridge are true highballs, making it a great place to do a circuit of highballs and blow folks away with your cool head. Oh yeah ... you've seen the photo of Pat Ament doing First Overhang in penny loafers, right? Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. Park in the pullout on the right side of the road at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge. Your car will be facing First Overhang no more than 30 yards away. The remainder of the boulders are located pretty much in a straight line behind First Overhang. In order, they are Pinnacle Colada, Tombstone Spire, Loose Flake Spire, Face Wall, High Boulder, The North End and Last Overhang (which is located 50 yards past The North End downhill and out-of-sight). Just take off down the wash to the north and you'll see Last Overhang on the right.
FIRST OVERHANG
1a & b. Masochism Tango V7 (a) / V? (b) ... FA: Bob Horan, 1985
Reach above your head to sharp and atrocious starting holds (a) or start back underneath on a jug and move right across choss to join the regular line (b) and ascend the rounded prow. The sidewall boulder looms behind/beneath you.
2a & b. French Trumpeter V6 ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1986/7
From either of First Overhang’s starts (a & b), trend left into a left-hand gaston and probably crossover to the pebble. A key edge sheared off in April 2003, but in late 2007 the edge was replaced.
3a & b. First Overhang V5 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1968
There are two obvious stand starts (a & b) to this one which are equally fun and present different starting challenges. Continue straight out the right side of the overhang to a testy topout. The large left handhold half-way up sheared off in April 2003, making this a quite a bit harder … but someone replaced it in late 2007. I guess we'll see how long their handywork lasts.
4. The Reach Problem V1 ... FA: Unknown
Start on the jug at chest height. Get your feet high and use a long reach to grab a thin edge at the top and pull over.
5. French Trumpeter Sit V6/7 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds below the jug, yard up to the jug and ascend #2.
6. First Overhang Sit V5/6 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds below the jug, yard up to the jug and ascend #3.
7. The Reach Problem Sit V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds below the jug, yard up to the jug and ascend #4.
8. French Trumpeter Traverse V7/8 sds ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2000
Begin with a sds on the far right and traverse left 12 feet into and up #2.
9. First Overhang Traverse V7 sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980's
Begin with a sds on the far right and traverse left 12 feet into and up #3.
10. The Reach Problem Traverse V5 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin with a sds on the far right and traverse left 12 feet into and up #4. This one is probably good warm-up for #8 and #9.
11. Far Right Bulge V3/4 sds ... FA: Unknown
From the sds on the far right end of the wall, do one hard move and pull up and over the short bulge.
PINNACLE COLADA
12. South Face V0 ... FA: Unknown
A few feet right of the southwest corner, climb straight up good holds to the top. Also serves as the descent.
13. Southwest Corner V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Start low in pockets, then climb somewhat crumbly holds on/near the arête. The rock quality improves up high, making it all worth it.
14. Pebble Reach AKA The West Wall V3 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Climb the center of the west face to a broken whitish-pink pebble approximately 16 feet up. Get it with your LH, so you can reach right for the top of the arête and pull over.
15. Loman’s Highball V5 ... FA: Greg Johnson, late 1990’s
Climb the center of the west face to the top. The idea is to swing/dyno to the top with your RH on the broken pebble. This problem has hurt some people and scared the crap out of others. Bring lots of pads.
16. Standard Route V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Start up the center of the face with #14 & #15, slide left halfway up and finish on jugs. Impure, but a brilliant 22 feet of fun.
17. Colada Traverse V6 sds ... FA: Bob Horan, 1980's
Begin from a sds on the far left with #19. Traverse right, round the corner, and finish up #12.
18. Northwest Finger Crack V2 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
Ascend the left side of the west face to the top without spending much time in any finger cracks.
19. Northwest Direct V3/4 sds ... FA: Unknown
A tricky and fingery sit start to #18.
20. Northwest Corner V0 ... FA: Unknown
Start atop the boulder on the far left and climb the northwest arête to the top. Tread lightly, the holds are small and the rock quality isn't the greatest.
TOMBSTONE SPIRE
21. Southwest Bulge V1/2 sds ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
From a sds, ascend the rounded southwest bulge with a committing pincher move just before the top.
22. West Side VB sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds, ascend gently overhanging jugs all the way up the bulging west face. One of the best beginner problems on the mountain.
23. Triple Bulge V3 sds ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
Begin from a sds on the northwest corner. Ascend slopers and edges to a jug at the top.
24. North Face V3 ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
Just left of Triple Bulge, this lichen-infested problem climbs up and slightly left to the top. Some friable edges still reside higher up.
LOOSE FLAKE SPIRE
25. South Face V2 ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
Climb the south face to the ramp up high. The loose flake is a little disconcerting. For that matter, so is the topout.
26. West Face V0 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the west face of the boulder to good incuts, from which you can pull up and over around to the left.
FACE WALL
27. Mateus’ Highstep V7/8 ... FA: Unknown
Traverse right to left from the far right end of the wall, rounding the corner and finishing up #32. Subtle, tricky and tensiony until you try to round the corner. There strong fingers become a necessity as well. Variation #1 - Mateus' Highstep Extension V8: Do #27, but when you arrive at the finishing lip on #32, continue left across the lip to top out with #34.
28. Right Side V1 ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
This problem starts on good holds on the right side of the south face and makes a few moves before you are faced with a choice ... finish up and left along a cruiser but somewhat chossy ramp OR pull out the high bulge.
29. The Walk V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967
Climb the middle of the 20+ foot vertical south face with big moves to decent holds that can be hard to see at first. Possibly the best problem for the grade on the mountain. A real must-do.
30. Left Side V3/4 ... FA: Unknown
Just right of the southwest corner, use pebbles and crimpers to climb up and left to the large white pebble 15 feet up. Super-tricky figuring out how to get started.
31. Horan’s Traverse V8? sds ... FA: Bob Horan, 1984
From the same sds under the overhang as #33, move right around the corner and traverse left to right to the far right end of the south face, staying low. Funky and befuddling. The grade is just a guesstimate.
32. West Roof V1/2 ... FA: Unknown
Just left of the southwest corner, start matched high on crimps and pull the short overhang up onto the face.
33. West Roof Direct V4 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds on the flakes below, go right to the pocket, then left to the starting edges on #32 and up.
34. Face With No Name V6 sds ... FA: Unknown (maybe CG)
Presumably done before me, since old PC-7 epoxy resides behind the RH starting edge which seemed really solid. Climb straight out the bulge onto the slab from a sds and continue to the top. To start, get a good RH gaston and LH sidepull in a shallow hole where it looks like a cobble used to reside. Stand up on a foot ledge (ALL feet are on), consider readjusting your LH up a couple inches into a sidepull undercling (in the same shallow hole) and crossover hard and fast with your RH almost 5 feet to a good edge at the lip. Now get comfortable and creative with the multitude of mediocre features past the lip to pull the bulge with style and dash up the slab. Harder than it looks. Variation #1 - Face With No Feet: A 2009 Peter Beal addition. Do #34, but when you start, you do not get the benefit of the large foot ledge. This may change the sequence you use to get to the lip.
35. West Face Mantel Problem V0 ... FA: Unknown
Find the slight depression in the overhang on the west face and pull/push yourself on up there.
HIGH BOULDER
36. Right Slot V1 ... FA: Unknown
From the obvious start holds in the right-arching seam, move up and right and finish up the wide gap.
37. The Block V5 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967
From the obvious start holds in the right-arching seam, trend up and left to the top, which is guarded by a few pine branches.
38. High Boulder Traverse VB... FA: Unknown
From the same obvious starting holds in the seam, bust left to jugs and continue a few more feet until you can finish with #39.
39. High Boulder Dihedral V2 sds ... FA: Unknown
From an awkward sds in the low dihedral, use a slopey sidepull or two to reach jugs from which you can pull over onto the ledge.
THE NORTH END
40. Private Pile V0 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2000
Climb the northwest face just left of the seam utilizing mostly good holds to a high ledge where you can exit left to safety or pull over the perched boulder residing on top.
41. Major Munge V0 ... FA: Jonathan Thessenga, 1999/2000
In the middle of the north face is a shallow dihedral. Start up it on jugs, then slide left and topout using smaller edges.
42. Colonel Choss V2/3 ... FA: Matt Samet, 1999/2000
A few feet left of #41, use good edges to ascend the face and arête. A long reach to the high right-arching seam is the crux.
LAST OVERHANG
43. Last Overhang V7/8 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002
Battle out the center of the overhang in the obvious place. Once you've established grips on the high face, it lets up a bit. The disturbingly thin but solid stegosaurus flakes on the right will help you attain the topout edges. The movement is tremendous, but the rock quality for the first couple grips is not the best. A good incut starting flake broke in 2005, requiring a different starting sequence involving a chossy undercling, but for now it still goes at about the same grade.
44. Last Overhang Sit V8 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2003
From a low sds in the dihedral, battle your way up into the chossy undercling and continue out #43. I'm pretty sure this has not been repeated since it broke, but my recent efforts suggest it will at about the same grade or a bit harder.
45. Last Place V1 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds with #44, slide right and climb the somewhat fragile arête/face to the top.

Upper Great Ridge Miniguide

In 1962, Pat Ament climbed his first FA on Flagstaff Mountain, King Conquer Overhang, an obvious and still impressive line out the middle of the King Conquer Rock formation. This event signalled the passing of the torch from Bob Culp and the birth of a new era on Flagstaff ... The Pat Ament Era. The Upper Great Ridge is comprised of a series of a series of west-facing flatiron-like overhangs. While the most well known of these is King Conquer Rock, others include Little Flatiron, Surf Rock, Shark's Rock and The Rock Shelter. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. While it is possible to approach these problems from the Crown Rock Parking Area(s) via a 10 minute uphill walk, the shortest approach is to park in the pullout at the left-turning switchback 2.1 miles after crossing over the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain). Your car will be facing First Overhang. Walk towards it, but turn right and head directly downhill and Upper Y Wall will come into view in 1-2 minutes. Cut left when you get to the bottom of the hill. The problems are located on and around the next 5 rock formations on the same ridge. Problems are numbered beginning with problems on King Conquer Rock at the apex of the Great Ridge and ending with problems just a stone's toss from the north end of Upper Y Wall.
KING CONQUER ROCK
1. King Conquer Traverse V5/6 sds ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980’s
From a sds on the very far left, traverse right across the entire formation. Finish up #11 for more mileage.
2. Face Out Traverse V7 ... FA: Skip Guerin, 1980’s
From a start on the very far left, traverse right across the formation, finishing up #9. Variation #1 - Reverse Face Out Traverse V10: Another Peter Beal creation. Start across #2, but instead of finishing up #9, finish up #10. When you're pumped, the size of the holds on #10 will have you crying for your mommy!
3. Northwest Corner V0 ... FA: Unknown
Just left of Direct Left Slot, climb the northwest corner up and over.
4. Direct Left Slot V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the left side of the wall using edges in and left of the wide left slot.
5. Lowdown No Good Arête V4 ... FA: Unknown
A one-move-wonder. From thin holds at the bottom of the short overhanging arête, get your feet on and lunge for the sloping jug 9 feet up.
6. Right Slot V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb up to and out the right slot, probably employing a handjam or two.
7. King Conquer Pillar V3 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the bulging face just left of #8 using thin opposing layaways on both sides of the overhanging pillar.
8. King Conquer Overhang V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1962
Start in the stellar overhanging crack that thins to fingers before becoming a face climb. Use the surrounding edges up high to pull out the top. A good hold above the finger crack broke a while back, making this standard Verm System V1 quite a bit harder. This problem would be "all-world" anywhere on earth.
9. Face Out V5 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974
From obvious starting holds, climb out the aesthetic face using three consecutive crimps before jugs at the top. Be aware that the first razorblade crimp that you get with your RH can slice you if your foot blows. The most satisfying finish is up and left.
10. Reverse Face Out V7 ... FA: Unknown
Start as per #9, but crossover with your LH to the sharp first crimp on #9 and deadpoint to a small hold with your RH. Reset your feet and dyno to the high jug or get a small RH intermediate before going to the jug. Finish up and left for bonus fun. Obviously, everything on the arête is off.
11. Southwest Layback V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb good layaways up the far right arête to a finish above #9. A more satisfying finish zooms up and left.
12. Reverse King Conquer Traverse V6 ... FA: Skip Guerin,1980’s
From the base of #11, traverse right to left across the wall all the way to the end. Very sequential just before the end.
LITTLE FLATIRON
13. Left Face AKA Leany Face V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the left side of the face using a long reach or throw to finish.
14. Right Arête V4 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the overhanging arête to the top using face and arête holds only. The object of the problem is to use the high arête hold with your RH. See the next problem.
15. South Face V1 ... FA: Unknown
Move up and gaston the high arête hold with your LH, step high and use the back edge to surmount the lip.
16. Little Flatiron Traverse VB ... FA: Unknown
A beginner traverse that starts on the far right and heads left to an optional slab finish.
SURF ROCK
17. Northern Arête V0 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds under the overhang, angle left past the flake to reach the north edge of the overhang, where you can ride good holds to the top.
18. Leap of Faith V4 sds ... FA: Rick Accomazzo, 1982/3
From a sds under the overhang, move left to the flake, hike your feet up and dyno straight up to the lip above a back-breaking boulder. Bring several pads or don't miss sticking the dyno.
19. Southern Arête V3 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds under the overhang, work your way up the south edge of the overhang and pull over.
SHARK'S ROCK
20. Northwest Corner V3 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the left edge of the west face using good slopers and edges.
21. West Face V3 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the west face, using hard-to-see edges out left before moving right up the seam to the top.
22. Direct West Face V4 ... FA: Unknown
Climb straight up the right side of the west face.
23. Shark’s Traverse V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001
From a sds on the corner, move up, then zoom left across the rail to an unreal crossover move to a pocket that spits you into #20.
24. Southwest Arête AKA Shark's Arête V3 (a) / V3/4 sds (b) ... FA: Pat Ament, 1964
Ascend the arête to the top of the overhang. Add the sds directly below if you like.
25. South Face V2 ... FA: Unknown
Start with #24 and surf right a few feet to pull down on incut edges on your way to the top.
THE ROCK SHELTER
26. Doorjam Campus V4 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
From a sds inside the rock shelter itself, use two edges above the “door” and no feet to campus up to a sloper, finishing with a heel hook and probable mantel.
27. South Overhang V3 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975
On the south side of the Rock Shelter, use an undercling on the left to reach to an edge. Gently trust some pebbles with your feet to reach high and pull yourself over without scraping yourself up too bad.
28. East Overhang V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975
With the wall almost behind you, pull up and over the slopey east side of the rock shelter.
29. Homeless Shelter V? ... FA: Unknown
Start opposite #28 and surf left out the overhang above the rock shelter on fragile rock to jugs for the finish.
30. South Face V0 ... FA: Unknown
From the same start as #29, climb the south face of the formation that the rock shelter is next to via good holds.
VOID BOULDER
31. Void Seam VB ... FA: Unknown
From a stance on the ledge, pull out the overhang at the seam.
32. Above the Void V0/1 ... FA: Matt Samet, 1999
Ascend the east face of the block immediately left of the Upper Y Wall. Move right above the void to handjams in a diagonal seam, then reach for the top and pull over on good holds. Falling off of this one is not an option and it has seen little to no traffic, so be wary of rotten holds and loose rock.

Dark Side North Miniguide

The hillside labyrinth known as The Dark Side is the collection of boulders lying between Nook's Rock and the Cloud Shadow Wall. This blog entry will cover only a portion of the Dark Side's problems. Problems are numbered, beginning with problems that are just a few feet from Nook's Rock itself and ending 200 yards uphill with problems that are just a few feet from the guardrail at the hairpin turn near Capstan Rock. The entire area is very well shaded by trees and almost all of the problems face north/northeast, so conditions can sometimes be quite good when it is hot elsewhere on the mountain. Where: There are a myriad of ways to approach these boulders, but the best way - from a social trail and user impact perspective - is to head up Flagstaff Road and park on the left 1.2 miles after passing over the Armstrong Bridge at Capstan Rock. Walk up the road 50 yards to the guardrail at the hairpin turn, step over the guardrail and drop down to the southeast to Cloud Shadow Wall. Walk to the end of Cloud Shadow Wall, turn left and follow the obvious social trail for 5 minutes to the north/northeast, dropping downhill and passing a handful of established problems on the right (covered later). At the bottom of the hill, you will be deposited at Nook's Rock, which has a prominent northwest face with a number of tall moderate slab problems on it. That Flakes It Overhang is a mere 20 feet from Nook's Rock's southwest corner. Once you locate this, the remainder of the problems lie on the left side of a faint social trail that heads west ... directly up the hill to the hairpin turn. When you've reach the guardrail, look left and #14 will be right there.
THAT FLAKES IT OVERHANG
1. That Flakes It V1 sds ... FA: Unknown
From a sds around on the far left, hand traverse up and right up large holds to the corner, then pull over.
2. That Flakes It Direct V4 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974/5
Start on good holds under the overhang. Keep your feet off the right wall as you do powerful moves out the overhanging face. A sds looks possible.
3. That Flakes It Super Direct V? sds ... FA: Dan Smith and Dan Howley, late 1990's
A sit start to #2 that begins on a thin LH hold and microcrimp for the RH. Move up and slightly right into the start for #2.

MOSSY SLAB
4. Mossy Slab V0 ... FA: Unknown
Ten yards uphill from That Flakes It is a east-facing slab with a few clean holds. Avoid the moss clods on your way to the top.
NOW OR NEVER WALL
5. It Is Now V3 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Start up a slab, then veer right up a seam to a jug at 15+ feet, regroup and pull up and over the bulging 20+ foot top-out onto the slab. Not precleaning the topout could spell disaster.
CRYPTIC BOULDER
6. Cryptic Grips V6/7 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2002
Begin on the two obvious matched starting holds. Move directly left to a incut LH sidepull, do some fancy footwork and go up with your RH to something bad (there are multiple options). Fight the barndoor and continue up and left directly behind the tree to a jug and reasonable topout ... assuming you brushed away the accumulating pine needles.
7. Cryptic Tips V5/6 ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2006
Begin matched the same as Cryptic Grips, perch and head straight to the top, doing some harsh pebble-squeezing along the way. I took the liberty of naming this one for Stevie.
8. Cryptic Magician V7/8 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002
Start squeezing at almost full wingspan using a LH crimp sidepull and a RH pinch on/near the rounded northeast corner. Bump your LH up, then go RH to a decent but hard-to-see undercling around the corner, then go RH hard to a better but sharper undercling. From here comes the crux. Do some fancy footwork and 2 LH moves followed by a RH crossover to a jug and you can regroup for the thin but reasonable topout. Tricky, balancey, footwork-intensive, sequential, unforgiving and frustrating. Cryptic indeed!
9. Cryptic Crimps V1 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2001

About 10 feet right of #10 up at a perch on the ramp, find good crimps and head straight straight up on edges that get smaller as you approach the top. Don't fall.
CREEPING BOULDER
10. Creeping Death V3 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
On the far left of the wall is a low sds on a horizontal incut and this tricky problem where the object is to pull around to the left and then topout.
11. Creeping in the Dark V2 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
From a sds on the horizontal incut on the far left, go up and right to the nice rail, then use small features at the lip to move for a jug up and right over the lip.
12. Creep to Safety V0 ... FA: Unknown
Left of the start for #13 is a moderate up-problem that heads up to a ledge.
13. Creeping in the Dark Traverse V6 ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2007
This problem begins just down from the guardrail. Start on the far right and traverse left, staying low, about 40 feet to finish with #11.

14. Be Very Wary V2/3 ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006

Ascend the very chossy and lichen-infested spire feature above the start for #13. Maybe Andy's ascent wasn't an FA, but I doubt anyone else would trust the frozen mud the spire is composed of to support body weight.
PAWN BOULDER
15. Pawn V5 sds ... FA: Andy Mann, 2006
This surprisingly good problem was no doubt overlooked due to its close proximity to the road and short stature. Located just past the middle of the turn past Capstan Rock on the right, this short overhang faces the guardrail just left of a yellow reflector on a tree. Begin from a sds on the arête and move up and right past slopers to top out. Too short, yet really really nice.

Frontside of the Amphitheater Miniguide

The Amphitheater is a great place to do lots of moderates. Several of them are a little spooky and a couple are downright dangerous. In addition to problems in the Amphitheater proper (#5-24), this entry also contains problems just left of (#1-4) and right of (#25-27) the Amphitheater, assuming you are looking at the Amphitheater from the south. The Backside of the Amphitheater - which was recently spraypainted all to hell by non-artistic knuckleheads - will be included in a later post once it gets cleaned up. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past the Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of Flagstaff Road. Stay right at the first split, turn left when you reach the Pebble Wall. When you reach the top of the stairs 30 seconds later, you will be standing in front of problems #3 and #4.

LEFT OF THE AMPHITHEATER PROPER

1. Southwest Corner Warmup VB sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds and ascend obvious jugs to the top of this short problem.

2. Southwest Corner V2 sds ... FA: Unknown

From a sds using a low RH pocket on the arête, pull yourself straight up and over this short corner problem, avoiding the jugs on #1.

3. South Undercling V3 ... FA: Unknown

Climb straight up the face past the obvious horizontal crack with a good undercling.

4. Southeast Bulge VB ... FA: Unknown

A few feet right of #3, climb good holds up and over the top.

LEFT SIDE OF THE AMPHITHEATER

5. Hurley Variation V2 ... FA: George Hurley, 1968

Start with #6, but steer left to the end of the bulge with a steep dropoff on your left.

6. East Face V1 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967
On the left side of the Amphitheater, climb the center of the short east-facing bulge onto the slab.

MONGOLIAN COSMONAUT ALCOVE

7a/7b/7c. Mongolian Cosmonaut V7/8 (a) / V9/10 sds (b) / V? sds (c) ... FA: Skip Guerin, late 1980’s /Low Start: Rob Candelaria, 1990’s

The sloper pocket is slowly disintegrating and the entire underbelly of this problem is falling apart, so get an ascent in while you can. Climb the west-facing bulge via numerous small pebbles. The trick is the start. For the high start (a) which has become more fashionable as the problem disintegrates, start with your LH on the big sloping gaston and RH in the shallow pocket just down and right from the sloper and pimp the pebbles up and over. For the original sequence (b) which was considered V8 but is now closer to V10, start with your LH underneath on the bad crimp sidepull and RH in the shallow pocket and float your LH to the big sloping gaston. Missing footholds and the eroding RH pocket are making this harder. A lower challenge (c) that was originally V10/11 began with your RH underneath the roof as well on a crimp. It was done by at least a couple folks before it lost at least two key footholds.

8. Southwest Corner V0 ... FA: Unknown

Battle up and over the rounded corner onto the slab.

CENTER OF THE AMPHITHEATER
9. High Overhang V1 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Start atop the boulder just right of #8. Reach high and right from a precarious perch, pull on, bust right to a decent hold and do one of the more committing mantels on Flagstaff Mountain.

10. Mongolian BBQ V3/4 sds ... FA: Colin Lantz, mid 1990’s

A sit start to #9 that begins on edges on the overhung face.

11. South Face Left Side V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

This one is harder to pull on than it once was, as the boulder that you perched on to pull on has fallen over. Stack pads to reach high and right to pull onto the blunt hanging arete any way you can. A few moves up, slide right before going for the top. For what it's worth, Pat referred to this problem as "his Thimble" and the landing - if you want to call it that - is even worse today.

12. Finger Trip V5? ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1974

Reach high to the mantel hold, do the mantel possibly via the splits and continue more or less straight up to the top. The mantel hold has broken at least once, so the grade here may be off.

13. Briggs Route V3 ... FA: Roger Briggs, 1970s

From the left end of the small boulder under the overhang, trend up the left-facing dihedral, then steer up and right to the top via cobbles.

14. Direct South Face V4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

From the left edge of the small boulder under the overhang, use a good LH to reach high for a decent RH. Now dance more or less straight up the cobbles.

15. Crystal Swing V2 ... FA: Bob Poling, 1970

From atop the block under the overhang, do the crux move, a dynamically move between two obvious cobbles, then continue to the top passing cobbles too numerous to count.

16. Inside Corner Chimney VB ... FA: Unknown

Ascend the chimney splitting the Amphitheater’s main walls.

RIGHT SIDE OF THE AMPHITHEATER

17. Deathfuck 5000 V5 ... FA: Jonathan Thesenga, mid 1990’s

Just right of the chimney separating the main walls of the Amphitheater, ascend this seldomly-done 30+ footer to the top. Thought to have been done only once.

18. Career Ender V4 ... FA: Unknown, early 1980’s

Chossy to start, but gets better. Climb 15 feet straight to the lip, where a heel-hook and blind reach await you.

19. Barton Fink V4/5 ... FA: Matt Samet, 1999

Start up #20. After a couple moves, go left to a sloping edge and crimp, then boldly go for the lip to topout with #18.

20. Overhanging Hand Traverse V1/2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Classic Flagstaff moderate. In the middle of the wall, angle up and right to the jug complex and relatively casual slab topout.

21. Gill Direct V4 ... FA: John Gill, 1969

Start up small edges, culminating with a dynamic move to reach the jug complex at the lip and a topout with #20.

22. The Direct Route AKA Sandpaper Ledge V3/4 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Get the good hold with your LH and, via a high right foot perch and RH intermediate, do a long reach to a good edge just short of the lip. From there, move to the high-friction lip and pull STRAIGHT UP AND OVER, possibly manteling. Variation #1 - Aerial Shoot V4: Dan Stone's 1979 dynamic variation. Do not use the obvious right foot high-step or any RH intermediates. Instead, dyno from the low holds to the high edge just short of the lip.

23. South Bulge V1/2 ... FA: Unknown
Start just right of #22. Move up and right around the bulge to the top.

24. South Corner VB ... FA: Bob Culp, late 1950’s/early 1960’s
Ascend the obvious short overhang with jugs on the far right side. This one serves as the downclimb for #23-26.

RIGHT OF THE AMPHITHEATER PROPER
25. Southeast Corner V1 ... FA: Unknown
Ascend the southeast face left of #26 to the top.

26. East Crack V1 ... FA: Unknown
Climb the east-facing crack on the back of the Amphitheater’s right side.
27. Wasp Nest V1 ... FA: Rob Candelaria, 1970’s

Opposite #26 on a separate boulder, ascend an uninspiring lichen-infested bulge above a hole containing a longstanding wasp nest.

Red Wall Miniguide

The Red Wall ... considering how many problems there are, you might expect that the Red Wall Boulder would be bigger than it is. Nevertheless, there's tons of history here and lots of problems have been contrived in a small space. The best story involves Bob Williams, Steve Wunsch, epoxy and the soapdish hold on Pat Ament's notoriously frustrating problem known as Right Side. All but solid double-digit boulderers can spend dozens of days sussing out all the Red Wall problems' subtleties. Where: Head up Flagstaff Road. 1.6 miles past The Armstrong Bridge (located at the hard right hand turn at the bottom of the mountain), park at the Crown Rock Parking Area on the left or the dirt lot 75 yards further up the road on the right. Hike 2 minutes up the trail on the north side of Flagstaff Road. Stay right at the first split, pass the Pebble Wall and North Rocks on your left and you're looking at it.

RED WALL PROPER

1. Left Side V4 sds ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Begin from a sds on the very far left with your RH in the obvious pocket. Climb straight up the short face utiilizing mostly pebbles and a small pocket.

2. Griffith Problem V4 ... FA: Christian Griffith, 1970's
From a stand start on small holds, establish on the face, then possibly use the small but obvious shallow pocket up high for your RH on your way to the top.

3. Griffith Direct V5/6 sds ... FA: Unknown
Begin from a sds direcly below #2 with your LH in the pocket. A high and powerful right heel-hook is the key to getting up into the starting holds for #2.
4. L->R Red Wall Traverse V8/9 sds ... FA: Peter Beal, 2002

From the same start as #3, with your LH in the 3-finger pocket, traverse right until you can go RH to the crimp immediately below the soapdish and LH into the soapdish and finish up #14.

5. Center Left V5 ... FA: Unknown

From the incut flakes, utilize a heel hook in the pod to get your RH into the 3-finger pocket. Turn the heel to a toe, stand up on it, match left foot to hand and go up and catch the crystal pinch with your LH before the topout. This problem was originally done starting RH in the pocket. Erosion makes this all but impossible today unless you're tall or standing on multiple pads.

6. Standard Route V4/5 ... FA: Bob Culp, late 1950's / Low Start: David Breashears, mid 1970’s

With your LH on the incut edges and RH in the left side of the pod, stand up tall and quickly sink your LH in the 3-finger pocket. Get your feet up and make a long RH move to the potato chip before topping out. This problem was originally done starting LH in the pocket. Erosion makes this all but impossible today unless you're tall or standing on multiple pads.

7. Red Wall Direct V7 ... FA: Christian Griffith or Skip Guerin, 1980's

Start matched any way you want in the large pod. Go up hard and fast to snatch the 3-finger edge with your right hand. Now do a long move up and left to the potato chip and then the top.

8. Varney Direct V6 ... FA: Eric Varney, 1968

Start with your RH in the soapdish or on the crimper just below it, pull on and go LH to the 3-finger edge. Now get your RH into the shallow 2-finger divot above it so you can slide left to the potato chip and the top.

9. R->L Red Wall Traverse V7 ... FA: Unknown

Start matched on the starting flake for #10. Traverse left across the rail into and up #3.

10. Moffat Direct V8 ... FA: Jerry Moffat, 1982

With both hands on the flake just down and right of the large pod in the center of the wall, do a long move up to the soapdish or the crimp just below it and finish via #8. Most people will tell you the pod is off for your LH as an intermediate.

11. Beal Direct V8 ... FA: Peter Beal, 2002

Begin from a sds with #10. Go right hand to the crimp just below the soapdish and then get your left hand in the soapdish. Now do #14. Most people will tell you the pod is off for your LH as an intermediate.

12. Crossover V6 ... FA: Christian Griffith or Skip Guerin, 1980's

Start with your LH in the soapdish (or the thin crimper immediately below it) and your RH in the 2-finger divot. From here, do a wild crossover move with your RH all the way to the 3-finger edge. Now do the long move up and left to the potato chip and the top. Looks improbable until your right foot stays where it needs to be for the first move.

13. Ooze Pig V7/8 ... FA: Christian Griffith or Skip Guerin, 1980's

A slight variation to #14. Start with your LH in the soapdish (or the thin crimper immediately below it) and your RH in the 2-finger divot and fire up and into a shallow 2-finger pocket just left of the bad pinch. From there, go again with your RH just a couple inches up to a bad shallow 3-finger pocket before topping out. Both of these shallow pockets are hard to see, but are just left of the bad pinch and deep pocket at the top of #14.

14. Right Side V5 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967

Start with your LH in the soapdish (or the thin crimper immediately below it) and your RH in the 2-finger divot. Smoothly flow up RH to the distant bad pinch and go again to get into the deep pocket above it to top out.

15. Far Right Side V4 ... FA: Unknown

Begin next to the tree with your RH on the high 4-finger edge 7 feet up. Move left to the finishing holds on #14, grab the top and pull over.

16. Far Right Side Low V6/7 ... FA: Unknown

Adds only one move, but an interesting one. Start with your RH on the low 4-finger edge at chest height and move it to the high 4-finger edge, finishing up #15.

17. Far Right Side Traverse V8 sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds a few steps down to the right past the tree. Traverse up and left to finish via #15, with a couple tough moves getting your RH onto the high 4-finger crimp. Variation #1 - Just Another Traverse V10: From the same start, traverse left to the high 4-finger edge, but instead of topping out, slide left to the soapdish and crimp, drop down to the rail and traverse left until you can finish up #3.

18. Far Far Right Side VB sds ... FA: Unknown

Begin from a sds a few steps down to the right past the tree. Ascend good edges and cobbles to the top.

RED WALL'S BACKSIDE

19. East Overhang Left V2 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967
On the left side of the back side of the Red Wall, above a railroad tie, start using slopers at the lip, heel-hook and pull over onto the slab.
20. Sleeper V7 sds ... FA: Will LeMaire, 2001
Begin from a sds with both hands on the obvious low shelf. Get to the sloping lip via an intermediate crimp and pull over as per #19.

21. East Overhang Right V3 ... FA: Pat Ament, 1967
Begin at the obvious protruding pebble and pull the bulge more or less straight up.
22. Guy’s Overhang V7 sds ... FA: Ted Lanzano, 2006
Begin from a low sds just down and left from the protruding cobble. From underclings, do an improbable-looking LH crossover move to the protruding cobble, then top out via #21.
23. Cobble Campus V? ... FA: Unknown

Four feet right of #21, pull on utilizing funky cobbles and surf left via a couple campusy moves into #21 and top out.

Hobo Cave Miniguide

The Hobo Cave ... Boulder's own little Black Hole. Where: Park before crossing The Armstrong Bridge at the base of the mountain and walk 5 minutes up the Flagstaff Trail. Look for a faint social trail on your right after a left hand switchback that cuts a path through the foliage to the cliffband above. There are a number of reasonably obvious lines to try and you can create your own eliminates or link-ups if you wish. Only the most obvious problems are illustrated here, although a number of folks have contrived numerous variations including simple eliminates, link-ups, loops, traverses that incorporate loops, reverse problems, sequences that cross the walls of the cave and combinations of all of the above, etc., some of which are suggested as variations. One Stevie Damboise nightmare has 90 moves or so. In a nutshell ... it's a place close to town to climb for free after work (or first thing in the morning) on the most user-friendly stone Flagstaff has to offer, do lots of moves and be home in time for dinner (or in time to shower before work/class). The Hobo Cave's best feature ... it stays dry and climbable under almost all weather conditions.
1. Hobo Arête V2 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
Begin at the rail outside the cave and surf the arête up and left to the jug at 14 feet. It may not look like it, but this is a really nice warmup/moderate.
2. Fill My Hole V9 ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007
Begin at the rail with #1 and traverse left around the corner, along the wall and into the very back of the cave. Regroup via a good stance at the jug and then exit the cave via #5.
3. Around the Corner V6 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2002
Begin via a sds in the low dihedral and slide directly right around the corner and up onto the slab.
4. Hobo Cave Traverse V8 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
From the jug in the back of the cave, traverse right along the wall of the cave exiting around the corner and establishing on the slab. Great movement on some of the most user-friendly and unique stone on the mountain. Variations #1-4 - Full Hobo Far Left V8/Full Hobo Center Left V8/Full Hobo Center Right V8/Full Hobo Far Right V8: Cut the traverse short and finish out any of the up lines.
5. Burnout V4 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
From the jug in the very back of the cave, climb out the roof and the left side of the cave to the jug 10 feet up. Variation #1 - Reverse Burnout V4: From holds on the left side of the entrance of the cave, reverse Burnout's moves back into the cave.

6. The Full Horseshoe V8/9 ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004

Begin on the left side of the entrance of the cave and do Reverse Burnout (see #5) into the cave and finish out the Hobo Cave Traverse. The really good rest in the back of the cave prevents much in terms of difficulty from being added. Variations #1-4 - Full Full Hobo Far Left V8/9/Full Full Hobo Center Left V8/9/Full Full Hobo Center Right V8/9/Full Full Hobo Far Right V8/9: Start The Full Horseshoe, but finish out any of the up lines. Variation #5 - Out of Bedlam V10: Do The Full Horseshoe but add the loop from Thunderbird (a variation to #12).
7. Hobo Far Left V6/7 ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007
Begin matched at head height on neighboring pinches/crimps and go LH to a good undercling. After a couple more tension-rich moves trend right to the jug finish. Be mindful of the sharp arete directly behind your head. If you're careful, it does not come into play.

8. Hobo Far Left Direct V8 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007
Down and left from the start of #7, begin from a sds on opposing jugs. From there, do the first crux sequence of the Hobo Cave Traverse, then head up #7.
9. Hobo Center Left V6 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
From the blocky jug just above your head in the center of the wall, bust left to a LH sidepull undercling, then straight up to the jug finish.
10. Hobo Center Left Direct V6/7 sds ... FA: Chip Phillips, 2004
From a sds matched on the the lowest slippery crimps, climb up to the blocky jug and the start of #9.
11. Hobo Center Right V5/6 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
Start on the blocky jug just above your head in the center of the wall, reach right to a sharp incut RH sidepull, adjust your feet and do a wild crossover with your LH up to the sloping fin. Hold the swing and head back left to the finishing jug.
12. Hobo Center Right Direct V6/7 sds ... FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004
From a sds matched on the the lowest slippery crimps, climb up to the blocky jug and the start of #11. Variation #1 - Thunderbird V8: Climb Hobo Center Right Direct then downclimb Hobo Center Left Direct all the way back into the starting holds. Variation #2 - Mad Dog 20/20 V8: Do Thunderbird, but finish by exiting out the end of the Hobo Cave Traverse.
13. Hobo Far Right V4 ... FA: Jeff Achey, 1986/87
Begin matched on a blocky corner hold under a roof featuring a LH crimp and RH sidepull/pinch and climb straight up to join #1 for the last couple moves to the jug finish.
14. Hobo Far Right Direct V8 sds ... FA: Stevie Damboise, 2007
Begin via a sds matched in the low dihedral. Use a small LH undercling to get up into the start of #13 via a long RH move.